How To Hang Wallpaper
Updated: Jul. 25, 2024
One common challenge in wallpaper installation is making it look seamless. We'll show you how it's done.
Time Varies
ComplexityIntermediate
CostVaries
Introduction
Transform your space with our simple guide on how to hang wallpaper. From prep to finish, learn professional techniques for flawless results.
Tools Required
- Framing square
- Ladder or stepstool
- Level
- Scissors
- Sponge
- Straightedge
- Tape measure
- Taping or putty knife
- Utility knife
- Wallpaper paste brush or paint roller
- Wallpaper seam roller
- Wallpaper smoothing brush
- Wallpaper smoothing tool
- Wallpaper squeegee
Materials Required
- All-purpose cleaner
- Joint compound or spackle
- painter's caulk
- Sanding sponge
- Shop towels
- Wallpaper
- Wallpaper paste
- Wallpaper primer
Hanging wallpaper requires forethought and planning. It is not a difficult project, but key decisions must be made even before you purchase the wallpaper. Once the key decisions have been made, specific tools must be gathered to make your installation as easy as possible.
Notice I didn’t say installing wallpaper is easy. Attention to detail and climbing up and down a ladder are certainly not easy. However, it can surely be satisfying when done. So, focus on the finish line, and I will provide some tips and tricks to make it as enjoyable as possible.
Wallpaper prep
Preparation and planning are crucial when installing wallpaper. Save yourself some heartache when purchasing by using a wallpaper calculator (found on most wallpaper websites) to help you calculate the amount of wallpaper you will need. Calculate 10% more paper than your actual square footage to allow for corners and accurate pattern repeat.
Not all wallpaper is the same
Wallpaper comes in different widths and lengths. You will need to lay out your wallpaper based on the width of the rolls you are purchasing. This will be important when working in corners, near windows and around doors or outlets.
Some wallpaper comes with dry adhesive already on the backing. This type of wallpaper must be moistened to allow the adhesive to expand before being applied to the wall. Some wallpaper will require the paste to be applied directly on the wall. Yet, other wallpapers will recommend applying the paste to the back of the paper, requiring time for the adhesive to expand the paper before being installed. There is also wallpaper with a sticky adhesive. The different wallpaper options will change your installation process and require you to make slight adjustments. For this case, I am using a wallpaper that requires the paste to be applied directly on the back of the wallpaper with an additional 20 minutes for the adhesive to seep into the backing and expand the wallpaper. I often put a little wallpaper paste on the wall as double insurance. Just be sure to wipe away the excess as you squeeze the wall.
Best paste for wallpaper
There are three common types of wallpaper paste: clay-based, wheat-based, and starch-based. They generally come in two forms: ready-mixed and powder form, where you add water. They all work the same with your wallpaper; however, the paste must be compatible with the wallpaper chosen. Refer to the wallpaper manufacturer’s recommendations when selecting your wallpaper paste. Only use universal wallpaper if your wallpaper calls for it.
Project step-by-step (13)
Preparing walls for wallpaper
Any finished wallpaper project will only look as good as the prep you did at the beginning of the job.
- Wipe down walls to clean and remove any residue or dust. The cleaner the wall, the better the wallpaper paste will adhere.
- Seal up any holes and uneven spots on the wall with spackle or joint compound plaster. Scrape back raised bumps with a trowel or sand down rough spots. Fill any seams between your baseboard or crown molding with painter’s caulk. Allow to dry thoroughly and cure before proceeding with your wallpaper installation.
- Apply a wallpaper primer once the wall is smooth and clean. Wallpaper primer is beneficial if you foresee removing the wallpaper in the future, as it helps to release it and improve the bonding adhesion between your wallpaper paste and the actual wallpaper. When in doubt, use the wallpaper primer. It does help the process. Don’t ever install wallpaper directly onto fresh and non-primmed drywall.
Determine wallpaper layout
Before you introduce moisture to your paper or apply wallpaper paste, you will need to determine how many drops (rows of wallpaper) your project will require and where to place your first drop. Some like to start the wallpaper installation in the center of the dominant wall if you have a repeating pattern. Others recommend starting at the room door when you are using a pattern that is not repeating, such as a texture or floral pattern, where it doesn’t matter if the image or motif lines up in the center of the room.
To determine how many rows you will need to cut out of your wallpaper rolls, butt your wallpaper roll where you want to start and draw a pencil mark. From there, keep lining up the wallpaper roll and work your way around the wall or room to determine where each row will be dropped.
Based on the width of your wallpaper rolls and where they lay out from one corner to the other, you may have to adjust left or right to achieve the maximum yield. If you have wallpaper with a repetitive pattern, you will want to calculate how the seams will line up to ensure your pattern meets from ceiling to floor and edge to edge.
Plumb line for wallpaper
Use a level to create a plumb, vertical line from the baseboards to the ceiling at your starting point for your first drop of wallpaper. This will be the anchor to the layout of the whole room. It is crucial to get this line plumb; if not, your wallpaper will look slanted or crooked.
Cut wallpaper
With the wall laid out and the number of rows determined, cut the wallpaper you will need. Mark your cuts and use a square to ensure the rows end up straight. Allow three inches of overhang at the top and bottom so you can adjust up or down to ensure the pattern lines up. If your wallpaper has a pattern that must line up, be sure to confirm the total row number and amount of overhang before making the cuts.
Apply wallpaper paste and book it
Generously apply the wallpaper paste to the first wallpaper piece to be installed. Use either a thick nap paint roller or a six-inch wallpaper paste brush. Whichever you choose, be generous with the paste and apply an even layer to every inch of the back of the wallpaper. It may get sloppy, but don’t worry, you will clean it up as you install it. It is more significant to have good, even adhesive coverage.
Once the back of the wallpaper is fully saturated, it is time to “book” it. With the wet back of the wallpaper facing up, fold the top and bottom edges to the center, keeping the side edges lined up. Let the wet inside surfaces meet without creasing the two folds.
Gently roll the booked wallpaper (without creasing it) to save space and set aside. Allow 15-20 minutes for the adhesive to seep into the backing and expand the wallpaper.
Position the first drop of wallpaper
Using a ladder, drop your first row of wallpaper, lining up the edge or seam with the center line. Focus on pressing and securing only along that center line. Wallpaper paste takes a while to dry, so you’ll have time to adjust and readjust until you have it exactly where you want it to be.
Smoothing wallpaper
Once the edge of your first drop of wallpaper is where you want it, work your way across the wallpaper, pressing it into the wall with the wallpaper brush and smoothing tool. Make sure you are relieving any air pockets as you go. It is ok to pull the paper off in sections and readjust instead of trying to work out a wrinkle with your smoothing tool.
Your smoothing tool will help you achieve full adhesion to the wall but will not remove the wrinkles. If you try to work a wrinkle too much, you may tear the paper. Be firm but gentle with the tools against the wallpaper. Once you have positioned the row with the smoothing tool, use the squeegee to help with air pockets and squeeze out any excess paste. Feel free to bounce back and forth with the tools until you feel the wallpaper is set and smooth.
Cutting wallpaper edges
At the top ceiling line and the base molding, press firmly into the top and bottom edges with a large flat taping knife or putty knife, creasing it into the baseboard at the bottom and crown molding or ceiling line at the top.
Using a sharp utility knife, cut the bottom and top edges using the taping knife as your guide. To maintain a continuous cut, move the taping knife and utility knife in unison, refraining from removing either from the wall until the cut is complete.
Wipe away excess paste
Use a wet sponge to remove any excess wallpaper paste from the top and bottom edges. Use a seam roller to lightly roll both seams left and right – refraining from rolling too hard to avoid pushing the adhesive out.
Moving on to the next drop
- Apply wallpaper paste to the wallpaper and repeat steps four through six.
- Focus on the seam between the drops, making sure the pattern lines up, then move on to smoothing and securing the drop to the wall.
- Cut at the top and bottom and wipe away excess paste.
Do not move on until you are satisfied with how the new drop looks. While the adhesive is still wet, you have time to readjust that drop. This is not a race for speed but rather an exercise in attention to detail.
Wallpapering corners
If you are wallpapering an entire room rather than just an accent wall, you’ll have to deal with room corners. Overlap the corner from both sides. Line up the pattern and cut both wallpaper drops simultaneously to get a clean cut from each side.
How to wallpaper around a window
Line up the row on the seam as you drop the row, just like you have been doing. When you get to the window or door corner, cut diagonally from the corner of the door or window trim to the edge near the middle of the door or window. For windows, you’ll have to make two diagonal cuts: one from the top corner down towards the middle of the window and one from the bottom corner up towards the middle of the window. This will allow you to push the wallpaper tightly and crease it around the window or door trim.
Cut along the edge of the window/door frame the same way you cut the top and bottom of each row. Use the taping knife to pin down the wallpaper as you cut. Feel free to cut away any excess wallpaper in the window/door opening to make it easier to crease around the window/door frame.
How to wallpaper around outlets
When it is time to wallpaper over an outlet or a light switch, turn off the electricity at the breaker and remove the outlet/switch wall plate. Hang the wallpaper drop as usual over the outlet/switch. Use a utility knife to carefully cut an “X” into the wallpaper over the outlet/switch. Trim the four flaps of the “X” 1/4” short of the box edges. The excess can be folded into the edges of the outlet/switch opening.
Smooth the wallpaper over the box. The wall plate can then be installed back over the outlet and the wallpaper so that the wallpaper looks tucked under the outlet cover. Remember, moisture does not mix with electricity. Be very conscious of where the paste may come into contact with electric wires.
FAQ
Do my walls need to be smooth to hang wallpaper?
Yes, for a good looking wallpaper installation, you will want the walls as smooth as possible. Be aware that any bump or hole in your wall will be seen or noticed in your wallpaper, especially if you have a shiny finish.
If you want your walls to look smooth, prepare them by sanding back bumps and filling in holes. If you don’t want to spend the time prepping the walls and smoothing them out, you may see imperfections in your wallpaper installation.
Is peel-and-stick wallpaper better than wallpaper that requires glue application?
This is a matter of personal choice. Peel and stick wallpapers are going to cost less and are usually installed faster.
Meanwhile, wallpaper, where you apply the paste to the wall, is the most common middle-of-the-road in price and will feel less physically taxing to get on the wall.
Wallpaper that you apply the paste on the back wallpaper and allow to expand for 20 to 30 minutes before you adhere it to the wall is usually the most expensive because it has an additional backing and feels more physically demanding because you have to work harder to get the paper in place.
High-end paper requires more of everything: money, time and energy, but it will be worth the investment as it does look good. It comes down to personal choice, budget and availability.
What happens if my wallpaper is bubbling with air pockets as it is drying?
If you find air pockets appearing in your wallpaper as it is drying, first, make sure you apply the wallpaper paste as recommended. Does your wallpaper recommend applying the paste to the wall or to the back of the wallpaper? When air pockets appear, it means the wallpaper is shrinking on the wall, and the proper time wasn’t given for the wallpaper paste to seep into the back and for the paper to expand before it went on the wall.
You may have to pull the whole row and reapply paste for proper adhesion. Again, don’t panic. Wallpaper paste has a long “open time” or a long time before it dries and hardens, giving you time to adjust your installation.
Originally Published: June 24, 2019
