How To Make a DIY Hydroponic Garden

Cut your fence posts

• Cut a 4-in. PVC Fence Post into two 36-in. pieces. “Use a circular saw with fine carbide teeth meant for cutting plastic or vinyl,” says Chris Bernacki of Hickory Property Service. “Use painters’ tape to mark your line for a smooth cut edge.”
• Be careful to cut the ends as straight as possible so the end caps fit tightly.
• Also, cut two 2-1/2-in. pieces of 1-in. schedule 40 pipe.

Drill the connection holes

• Drill the connection holes into your 4-in. PVC fence post sections.
• Three of the holes have a 1-3/4-in. diameter and one hole has a 1-1/4-in. diameter. (See diagram below for hole locations.)

• These will face each other on the inside vertical edges; they connect the two rails.
• Pro tip: The hole saw may grab on the PVC when you begin to drill. Some people run the hole saw in reverse, but it depends on the saw’s teeth.

Lay out the pattern for your plant net cups

• Use a permanent marker to indicate the center for each hole.
• Leave at least three inches from each end so you won’t interfere with the fittings that will be installed later.

Drill holes for plant net cups

• Drill these on the top sides of the rails.
• Drill 1-1/2-in. holes for the small cups and 2-1/2-in. holes for the large cups.

• After drilling the holes, use the sandpaper to smooth away loose PVC from the openings.
• This makes a formidable mess, so have the broom handy.
• Pro tip: Smaller net cups are good for shorter-term plants like lettuce, while larger ones are good for longer-term plants like peppers and strawberries.

Glue the rail connection fittings

• Assemble the fittings and 1-ft. PVC lengths in the order shown in the photo below (union fitting and adaptors).

• Apply the glue to the inside of the receiving fitting and the outside of the inserting fitting.
• Push the pieces together while giving them a slight twist, about one-quarter turn. Hold pressure for 30 to 45 seconds, until the fittings don’t push apart.

Insert the bulkhead fittings

• These are the bulkhead fittings: 1-in. fitting and 1/2-in. fitting.

• These go into the connection holes you drilled in Step 3.
• The threads go inside the 4-in. PVC fence post. The gasket seal goes on the outside.
• Tighten the nut onto the threads until the fitting is tight.

Insert the connection fittings and elbows

• Insert the 1/2-in. elbow into the 1/2-in. bulkhead fitting.
• Insert the 1-in. elbow into the 1-in. bulkhead fitting directly across from the 1/2-in. fitting.
• Angle these elbows downward at a 45-degree angle, since they’re the connections to the water reservoir.

• Unscrew the union connection and thread each half of the connection fittings into the remaining two bulkhead fittings.

Seal and glue end caps

• Apply the silicone sealant to each end cap’s inside along the entire perimeter.
• Apply extra silicone in the corners, which are more prone to leaking.

• After applying the silicone, apply PVC glue along the inside edge of the cap, adjacent to the silicone.
• Apply glue to the outside of the post.
• Push the end cap in place and hold for 30 to 45 seconds until the cap doesn’t push away from the rail.

• After the caps are set, look at the exterior connections in the corners. If there’s a small space in the corner, apply some glue to fill the gap to ensure a watertight seal.

Connect rails

• Place your rails next to each other with the union fittings aligning with the other half.
• Tighten the union fitting as much as you can with your hands.

Prepare water reservoir

• Drill a 1-1/4-in. hole through the lid for the outflow tubing.

• Drill a 3/4-in. hole through the side of the reservoir near the top of the sidewall. This is the hole for the inflow water line that will connect to the water pump.
• Drill another 3/4-in. hole next to the inflow water line. That’s for the cord to pass through.

• Place the water pump in the center of the reservoir and route the cord out of the 3/4-in. hole next to the inflow tubing hole.

Attach inflow and outflow tubing

• Push the corrugated tubing onto the 1-in. elbow barb.

• Route the 1-in. corrugated tubing through the top of the reservoir in the 1-1/4-in. hole.
• Leave about eight inches in the reservoir and cut off the remaining length.
• Push the inflow 1/2-in. tubing onto the elbow barb and route through the 3/4-in. hole in the side next to the cord.
• Cut to the appropriate length. Push the inflow tubing onto the pump barb until it is fully seated.

• Fill the water reservoir to about three-quarters full.
• Add nutrients according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Prepare net cups

• You can use seeds, seedlings or starter plants from a nursery.
• If your plants came in soil, remove as much of it as possible from the roots before inserting them into the Rockwool.

Finish it up

• Plug the pump into a wall receptacle or extension cord.

• Insert the plant cups into the holes in the rails.
• Don’t leave any holes empty. This allows sunlight into the system, which promotes algae growth.

FAQ

How do I maintain proper pH and nutrient levels?

Test and then adjust the pH level in the hydroponic system’s water by adding a pH increaser or decreaser. Most fruits and vegetables prefer a pH of 5.5 to 6. To keep your plants well fed, add a hydroponic nutrient solution every one to two weeks.

Why do hydroponic gardens grow plants faster?

Without soil, nutrients are easily accessible to root systems in hydroponic systems, allowing for quicker uptake and faster plant growth.

What are the benefits of hydroponic gardening?

According to Joe Schwartz, senior vice president of American Hydroponics, one of the best benefits is having “fresh, nutritious (hopefully) pesticide-free food available to you and your family seven days a week, 365 days a year.”

About the Experts

• Chris Bernacki owns Hickory Property Service in Holyoke, Massachusetts. He has more than 30 years of experience in the trades, renovating and remodeling commercial and residential properties.
• Joe Schwartz is senior vice president of American Hydroponics, a company that designs and supplies hydroponic growing systems for commercial and residential growers. He has been involved in the industry for over forty years.