Installing artificial turf grass is a lot like laying carpet. Artificial turf works best on a flat, compacted, well-draining substrate.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Artificial Turf Grass Installation
Artificial turf grass, invented and patented by Monsanto, made its first appearance at a Providence, R.I. high school in 1964. Originally known as ChemGrass, it was later rebranded AstroTurf after it replaced a burned-out natural grass field in the Houston Astrodome in 1966. Other manufacturers eventually produced their own products, and today you’ll find that professional, college and high school stadiums coast to coast have opted for artificial turf installation.
Modern artificial turf looks so realistic, you might not even be able to tell it’s fake grass. It’s a great option for those that don’t want to worry about mowing and watering their grass, or for yards that don’t get enough sunlight to support healthy grass.
If you’re interested in an artificial lawn, research the pros and cons— there are plenty of both. If you’ve done that and you’re ready to install, these tips can help you achieve the best of the low-maintenance realism that artificial turf offers.
On This Page
Choose Turf and Infill Based on the Expected Use
Artificial turf is made of nylon, polypropylene or polyethylene. Nylon is the softest and most realistic, but it’s also the least durable. Polypropylene is essentially the opposite: durable, but not realistic. Polyethylene strikes a good balance, and because it’s easy to clean and deodorize, it’s the best choice if you own pets.
Pile height is another important consideration. Two to three inches is best for high-traffic areas, increasing the product’s durability and making it more comfortable for walking and playing. A shorter pile height, from 1/2- to 1-1/2-inches, is easier to maintain and a better choice for low-traffic areas like courtyards and apartment balconies.
Infill is the material you spread on the turf immediately after installation to hold it down and help mitigate the heat retention of the plastic grass blades.
Crumb rubber, manufactured from recycled car tires, is one of the most common infills. But it’s lightweight, doesn’t hold well in high winds and amplifies the synthetic odors of the turf. Plus, it’s an environmental concern; that recycled car rubber contains toxic chemicals that can leach into the ground.
Acrylic coated sand and silica sand are safer choices. Zeolite, also eco-friendly, is a fourth option with deodorizing properties that can benefit households with pets.
Kill Existing Grass Safely
If you’re replacing a lawn that’s gone brown or been struggling for years, make sure the entire lawn is dead before covering it with porous turf. The safest way to do this is to solarize. That means covering it with black plastic and letting the sun bake it to death, along with any weeds still growing. The process takes a few months.
You can also simply dig out the old grass. You’ll need to remove at least four inches of topsoil to make sure you get all the roots. That’s a lot of dirt, so make sure you have a plan for disposal.
Prepare a Solid Substrate
It’s possible to install artificial turf directly on the ground. But it won’t look like a lawn because all the small bumps and depressions will be visible and distracting. Pros recommend installing a four-inch base of class-2 road base rock or something similar, then compacting it to a solid surface.
It’s a good idea to follow this up with a 1/2- to one-inch layer of compacted sand or decomposed granite to provide a smooth underlay for the turf. If you don’t want to dig down that deep, a one-inch layer of compacted sand or decomposed granite is a bare minimum for solidity, comfort and good drainage.
Grade (flatten and level) the underlay as you go. Flat areas of your new artificial turf lawn must have a minimum slope of 1/4-inch per foot toward a runoff point to prevent water from collecting under the turf and degrading it.
Keep the Blade Direction Uniform
Artificial turf, like carpeting, comes in heavy rolls that are difficult for one person to manage. You’ll need help carrying and positioning them. Once you get a roll in the general installation area, leave it in the sun for an hour or so before unrolling it. It will be more pliable and lay out flatter.
When you have to put two sections of turf side by side to cover a wide area, make sure the blades of both pieces lay in the same direction. If they’re facing opposite directions, your new lawn will look like patchwork instead of a continuous whole.
Cut Edges Slightly Long
When you lay out the turf, you’ll have to trim the edges, like trimming carpeting around the perimeter of a room. Pros recommend a sharp utility knife for this, and always cut from the back.
Leave a few extra inches on the edges so you have something to tuck under borders or against walkways. If you leave too much, you can always cut more as a final step. But if you leave too little, you may end up with hard-to-hide gaps.
Secure the edges with landscape staples or landscape nails. You can use a carpet installer’s knee-kicker to stretch the turf and keep it free of wrinkles and loose areas.
Spread Infill and Brush It In
With a drop spreader, apply the infill material of your choice in the quantity recommended by the turf manufacturer. Afterwards, brush it into the turf with a hard-bristle push broom, following the same direction as the blades so the blades pop up and stand out.
Artificial Turf Costs
Polypropylene turf costs from $1.90 to $6.75 per square foot, while polyethylene costs between $2.55 and $3.85. Nylon, the softest but least durable option, costs from $5.05 to $5.85.
If you have the turf professionally installed, expect to pay between $5.50 and $18.75 per square foot for labor and materials. Manufacturers offer material warranties from five to 15 years regardless of who does the installation, and installers usually offer their own warranties to cover workmanship.
You can save a lot of money by doing your own installation. But keep in mind it’s a challenging DIY project that involves hauling dirt, renting equipment (like a plate compactor) and heavy labor. Do you have a pet?
FAQs
What are the most difficult parts of installing artificial turf grass?
The hardest part of installing turf is not the turf itself, but the prep work to prepare the ground. “The real challenge is excavation and drainage. If your soil holds water or has tree roots, you are already looking at added time, tools, and problem-solving,” says artificial turf expert David Barbera. “Most people do not realize how much precision it takes to get a level surface with the right slope for drainage. One inch off and you will get puddles or worse, a wavy surface that looks fake.”
How do I know which artificial grass is right for me?
To decided on the right type of turf you’ll need to consider the look you’re going for, as well as what kind of wear and tear is to be expected. “I always start by asking for pets, play, lounging, or looks,” says Barbera. “For pets, you need turf with good backing, drainage holes, and infill that is easy to clean. For children, use shorter pile and softer, springy blades that will not mind rough play. If you live somewhere hot, go for heat-resistant fibers, or you will end up with a lawn too hot to walk on barefoot.”
About the Expert
- David Barbera is the President of Artificial Turf Supply and a dedicated expert in gardening and outdoor design. David specializes in creating stunning, sustainable outdoor spaces using innovative landscaping solutions.