Turn a bland wall into a showstopper for $300!
Time Multiple Days
ComplexityIntermediate
Cost$101–250
Introduction
Construct a dramatic built-in bookcase and entertainment center with these simple plans. All you need is some inexpensive lumber and drywall.
There aren’t many DIY projects that will give you as much bang for the buck as this dramatic drywall bookshelf entertainment center. Granted, you’ll have a chunk of time invested before you’re done, but the materials are readily available and inexpensive.
You can build shelves just like ours, or you can design any other size and shape you like. In this article we’ll show you how to build the frame, hang the drywall, and finish the project with corner bead and drywall tape. We’ll also show you how to add an outlet for the TV and wire the switch and lights.
Before you start your project, contact your local inspections department to find out if an electrical permit is required. In most cases, the wiring will need to be inspected before you cover it with drywall. The new electrical code requires an AFCI (arc-fault circuit interrupter) in many areas when new wiring is added. Ask your inspector if an AFCI is required in your situation. If so, simply replace the existing outlet with an AFCI receptacle and run power from the “load” side of the AFCI outlet to the new TV outlet and then on to the switch and lights. Any new receptacle outlets must also be tamper-resistant.
Tools Required
- Air compressor
- Air hose
- Caulk gun
- Cordless drill
- Dust mask
- Non-contact voltage tester
- Paintbrush
- Roller sleeve
- Roller tray
- Safety glasses
- Shop vacuum
- T-square
- Taping knife
- Tin snips
- Wire stripper/cutter
Materials Required
- See Materials List in "Additional Information"
Project step-by-step (18)
Step 1
Mark it out on the wall
Mark the location of the framing and snap chalk lines on the wall. Make sure there’s at least a 1/2 inch between the outside lines and the walls, floor and ceiling, and that the lines are level and plumb.
Step 2
Add a switch and outlet to the bookshelf entertainment center
If your project includes a TV and lights, you’ll need another outlet and a switch. The first step is to turn off the power to the outlet, and double-check that the power is off by testing the wires with a noncontact voltage detector. Then, remove the outlet and twist wire connectors onto the black wires as an extra precaution.
Determine whether the wires are 12 or 14 gauge. Then count the wires in the box and calculate the box size required, including the extra hot, neutral and ground wire you’ll be adding. If the box is too small, cut it out and add a larger one.
Remove a knockout from the top of the box for the new cable. If the box is metal and doesn’t include built-in cable connectors, add a cable connector to the new cable. Next, cut the hole for the TV outlet. To make running new cable much easier, try to choose a location that’s in the same stud space as the existing outlet. If this isn’t possible, you’ll have to cut out some drywall to drill through studs. Mark around the remodel box and cut the hole. Also, cut a hole near the floor, directly under the TV outlet hole.
Match the gauge of the new cable—12 or 14 gauge—to the gauge of the wire in the existing box. Run the NM (nonmetallic) cable with ground from the existing outlet to the new outlet, and from the new outlet to the hole near the floor. Leave 12 inches of extra cable at the new outlet. Then run enough cable from the new outlet through the hole near the floor to reach your new switch location. Be generous with the cable to the switch to be certain you’ll have at least an extra foot at the switch location. That’s all the wiring you need to do for now.
Step 3
Build the frame
Pick the straightest lumber for the long lengths and cut the parts. Mark the front and the back of the base and top for the column locations. Mark the column sides for the shelves. Then build the U-shape and box-shape backers and nail the parts together.
Step 4
Level the base
Shim the base up with 1/2-in. scraps of plywood on all four corners. Drill a 3/4-in. hole in the back 2×6 to feed the cable through. Then use a level and add shims as needed to level the frame across the front and from front to back. Add shims under each column. Screw the frame to the wall studs.
Step 5
Set the columns
When the frame is level, add scraps of 1/2-in. plywood and shims under the two column locations. Make sure the frame is centered, with a 1/2-in. space on each end, and screw it to the wall. Next, install the columns. Use a level to make sure the end column is plumb and screw it to the bottom frame and to the wall.
If there is no stud to drive screws into, use toggle-type drywall anchors to hold the column against the wall. Then use the shelves as spacers to make sure the columns are in the correct locations before you screw them into the base. There should be a 1/2-in. space between the wall and the end columns.
Step 6
Mount the top frame
Next, set the top frame in place on the columns. Screw the top frame to the wall, and screw the top of the columns to the top frame.
Step 7
Position the shelves with spacers
Cut scraps of plywood as spacers. Rest each shelf on the spacers and screw them to the columns. This will ensure that the shelves are lined up precisely. You’ll need another set of spacers for the top shelves.
Step 8
Rough-in the electrical wiring
Start wiring by nailing a switch box to the frame in a convenient location, and then drilling 3/4-in. holes through the framing to make a path for the new cables. Run lengths of cable from the TV outlet to the switch, from the switch to the first light fixture, and between the light fixtures. Leave at least 2 feet of extra cable at each light. Secure the cables with 1/2-in. plastic staples.
Step 9
Install the drywall
Attach the drywall with screws. If you plan to caulk the back edges, get a tight fit between the drywall and wall. Shave off overhanging edges at the front so they don’t interfere with corner bead installation.
Step 10
Nail on the top and bottom corner beads
You’ll need tin snips to cut the corner bead. Notch one of the corner beads as shown here. Push it into the corner and mark the opposite end. Notch the other end the same way. The key to installing corner beads is to press them in until the outside corner is just slightly proud of the drywall before driving the fasteners. Also, adjust the position of the bead so the corners of adjoining beads line up. For extra insurance against cracking, cover all the corner bead edges with adhesive-backed mesh tape.
Step 11
Add corner beads to the sides
Cut the side pieces to fit between the top and the bottom notched corner beads so they overlap the metal tabs. Line up the corners and attach the beads with nails or staples.
Step 12
Attach corner bead with a stapler
Using a 1/4-in.-crown pneumatic stapler and 1-in.-long staples, drive staples every 6 inches and wherever the corner bead is buckled out. Then cover the edge of the bead with mesh tape.
Step 13
Tape the inside corners
Start by taping the inside corners. Then fill the corner beads with joint compound. Use 45-minute setting-type compound for this. Mix the powder with water according to the instructions on the bag. Then use an 8-in. taping knife to fill the corner beads. We used almost two full bags of setting compound for this project. When the joint compound has firmed up to the consistency of soap, carve off any lumps and high spots with your taping knife. You can add another coat as soon as the compound hardens. You don’t have to wait for it to dry completely.
Step 14
Fill the bead
Don’t rush this part of the job. Plan on spending a few hours a day for several days. Use premixed joint compound for the final coats, letting it dry between each coat. Trowel on thin coats until you’ve got a smooth, flat surface. Let the final coat dry. Then sand carefully with 120-grit drywall sandpaper mounted on a drywall sander. Use a fine sanding sponge with an angled edge to sand the inside corners. Vacuum all the dust from the surfaces and check your work with a strong raking light. Fill any imperfections, resand, and you’re ready to prime and paint.
Step 15
Caulk the back corners
Avoid a lot of tricky corner taping by caulking the back inside corners. Cut the tip of the latex caulk tube carefully to create a very small hole. Then apply a neat bead of caulk and smooth it out with your finger.
You can cut the drywall the usual way by scoring one side with a utility knife, bending it to break at the scored line, and then cutting the paper backing. But for fast, super-clean cuts, we used a table saw to cut the drywall. We have a table saw with a good dust collection system, so it wasn’t too dusty. But you could also cut the drywall outdoors with a circular saw and a straightedge.
Stack four pieces of drywall and cut all of them in one pass. We started by cutting a 2-1/2-in.-wide strip from the edge of each sheet to remove the tapered section. We did this to avoid having a tapered edge under the corner bead or at the back where we wanted to caulk the back edges rather than tape them. If you’re using the score-and-break method, clean up the cut edges with a rasp.
Once the pieces are cut to width, it’s easy to cut them to length and screw them to the framing. Mark the length and use a drywall square to score them. All drywall cuts should be 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. less than the actual measurements. You can easily fill gaps, but drywall will break along the edge if you try to force it in. Attach the drywall with 1-1/4-in. drywall screws. Use a special drywall screw gun, or buy a special bit for your cordless drill that sets the screws just under the surface without driving them too deep.
Step 16
Install the recessed lights
When you’re done sanding the drywall, you can install the recessed lights. Cut holes for the lights using the template provided, or a large hole saw mounted in a drill (we used a 3-1/4-in. hole saw). Remove the cover and knockouts and add cable connectors if they’re not built into the fixture. Push the cable(s) through the connectors and connect hot, neutral and ground wires with the appropriate wire connectors.
Then when the painting is complete, finish the wiring by adding the outlets and connecting the switch or dimmer switch. We used 6-watt dimmable LED flood bulbs in our fixtures. If you’re using LED bulbs and want to install a dimmer, check the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure the switch is compatible with the brand of LED bulb you’re using. When the wiring is complete, turn on the circuit breaker to check your work. Call an electrical inspector for a final inspection.
Step 17
Add glass shelves
Since we wanted to use the shelves as a bookshelf entertainment center, we cut holes for low-voltage old-work brackets in the back wall of the TV compartment and the compartment below it. That way, we could run HDMI and other audio/video cables through the wall from the components to the TV. Make sure the cables are rated for in-wall use—look for CL2- or CL3-rated cables.
Screw shelf supports into the 2×6 backer, making sure they’re level with each other. Set the 1/4-in. polished-edge glass shelves on the supports. To protect the drywall from wear and moisture such as from potted plants, consider having more glass pieces cut that you can use to cover the bottoms of the other compartments. Reinstall the baseboard molding and you’re ready to move in and enjoy your dramatic new display wall.
Step 18
Additional Information
Figure A: Shelf Framing
The overall dimensions of the built-in bookshelf entertainment center are 11′ 11′ wide x 9′ tall x 17-1/2′ deep.
Figure B: Electrical Diagrams
These diagrams illustrate the wiring arrangement used in this project.
Overview
Dimmer Switch Wiring
TV Outlet Wiring
Added AFCI Outlet Wiring
