How to Build a DIY Hammock Stand

To start, you’ll need to get the lumber cut down to size.

• Cut two eight-foot 2x6s to seven feet.

Inside Rail Layout

• On both seven-foot 2x6s, make a mark the board eight inches in from the end and cross the mark at 1-5/8-in. up from the bottom.
• Make another mark on the end of the board 2-3/4-in. from the bottom, and draw a line at a 45 degree angle.
• Make a reference line for where the top ends at 6-3/16-in.

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Cut 45 Degree Angles

• Cut the 45 degree angles with a miter saw.

Drill Two-Inch Holes

• Drill two 3/4-in. deep holes on the inside of each board at the eight-inch mark, using a two-inch Forstner bit.

Cut 2×8 Top

• Cut a 45 degree angle on the end of the 2×8, using a circular saw.
• Measure from the long point of the 45 degree angle and make a mark at 71-9/16-in.
• Cut the board to length at the long point of the 45 degree angle.
  • Pro Tip: Use a speed square to guide the circular saw.

Cut the Pipe

• Cut the 10 foot pipe in half at five feet using a reciprocating saw or hacksaw. A heavy-duty pipe cutter works well, also.
• Cut the two 6-in. nipples to 4-1/4-in., leaving you with two 1-3/4-in. and two 4-1/4-in. pieces.
  • Pro Tip: Clamp the pipe to a sturdy surface or sawhorse before cutting.
    • Alternative option: Use two 4-in. and two 2-in. nipples. They will be slightly undersized for the two-inch hole because of the threads and will cost more.

Assemble the Tees

• Screw the 4-1/4-in. and 1-3/4-in. pieces into the two ends of the tee.
• The outside dimension of the tee assembly should be no more than 8-3/4-in.

Attach Top to Rail

• Lay the top upside down and place the inside of the rail to the edge of the top at the 6-3/16-in. reference marks.
• Attach the rail to the top using #10 x 3-1/2-in. deck screws every 12 inches.

Install Tees and Rail

• Lay the top and rail assembly on its side with the top pointing up.
• Install the two tee assemblies in the two-inch holes in the opposite orientation of each other.
• Place the other rail on the top edge guiding the tees into the two-inch holes.
• Attach the rail using #10 x 3-3/4-in. deck screws.

Outside Rail Layout & 1/2 Inch Holes

• Measuring from the end, make a mark at 7-1/8-in., then cross the mark at 4-1/4-in. from the bottom.
• Make another mark eight inches from the end and cross the mark 1-5/8-in. from the bottom.
• Repeat this on each end of the two rail boards.
• On each rail board, drill four 1/2-in. holes at the marks you made.
  • Pro Tip: You may want to drill a 3/16-in. pilot hole before drilling the 1/2-in. hole, or use a 1/2-in. spade bit or brad point bit.

Install Carriage Bolts

• Insert four 1/2 x 12-in. carriage bolts into the 1/2-in. holes on the rail through to the other rail.
• Install flat washers and 1/2-in. nuts, tighten with a 3/4-in. wrench.

Install Pipe Arms

• Rotate the tees so they face each other, then tip them up a bit.
• Thread the two five-foot pipe arms into the tees.
• Tighten with a pipe wrench or plumber’s pliers.

Drill Pipe for Eye Bolts

• Drill a 3/8-in. hole one inch from the end of each pipe.

Install Eye Bolts

• Insert an eye bolt into the 3/8-in. hole. Secure it with a lock washer and nut.
  • Optional: Cap the ends of the pipes with a 1-1/2-in. PVC cap.

Rail Bottom Holes

• On the rail closest to you, measure from the left and make marks at 9-1/2, 12-3/4 and 26 inches.
• On the same rail measure from the right and make marks at 9-1/2, 22-3/4 and 26 inches.
• On the other rail farthest from you, measure from the left and make marks at 9-1/2, 22-3/4 and 26 inches.
• On the same rail measure from the right and make marks at 9-1/2, 12-3/4 and 26 inches.
• Using an adjustable square set at 3/4-in., mark the center of the board at each mark you made.
• Drill twelve 3/16-in. pilot holes two inches deep at the marks you made.

Feet Layout and Drill

• From your 10-foot 2×6, cut four 30-inch boards.
• Set your adjustable square at 3/4-in. and draw lines on the face at one end of each of the 30-inch boards.
• Set your adjustable square at one inch and make marks from the sides crossing the 3/4-in. lines.
• Make the third mark at 9-1/2-in. from the end and one inch from the side.
• Drill a 1/4-in. hole at each mark.
• Repeat on all four feet.
  • Optional: Cut a 45 degree angle on the outside ends facing up, on each foot.

Install the Feet

• Attach all four feet to the bottom rails at the holes you drilled in step 14, using a #16 x 3-1/2-in. Power lag screws through the holes you drilled at 9-1/2-in. on the foot.

Feet Closed

• Swivel the feet closed and move the hammock stand to where you want to set it up.

Hammock Stand Set-Up

• Swivel the feet to their open position.
• Lift the pipe arms out.
• Swivel the feet so the two 1/4-in. holes at the end of each foot line up with the 3/16-in. pilot holes on the bottom of the opposite rail.
• Attach each foot to the rail with two #16 x 3-1/2-in. Power lag screws.

Attach the Hammock

• With a helper, flip the hammock stand onto its feet.
• Attach the hammock with carabiners and chain to the eye-bolts on each pipe arm.
  • Note: Most campsite hammocks include carabiners and adjustable straps. Prior to purchasing carabiners and chain, confirm the span of your hammock and any attachment accessories it may include.

Finish

• It’s a good idea to preserve the wood with a coat of deck stain or marine varnish.

Options 

• Add a removable carriage bolt to the underside of each pipe arm through the rails to keep the pipe arms up in the air when the hammock is not attached.
• You can easily remove the pipe arms by screwing them out of the tees when the hammock stand is not in use.