As you plan your rack, consider building multiple racks. Building two or three doesn’t take much more time than building one. Also think about (and measure!) the items you want your rack to hold. You may want to mount the upper shelf a little higher or lower than we did.
Most home centers carry everything you’ll need, including 1/4-in.-thick wood strips in species like pine, oak and poplar. If you don’t find thin material alongside the other lumber, look for “mull strip” or “mullion” in the millwork aisle. The wood quantities on our Materials List will yield a rack sized for most cabinet doors, but you may need a little more or a little less.
Begin by looking inside your cabinet. With the door closed, this rack will project 3-3/4 in. into the interior. Make sure the installed rack won’t bump into your sink, pipes, garbage disposal or other fixed object.
Measure the cabinet door and opening to determine the measurements of the sides and shelves (Photo 1). Mark the position of the upper shelf on the sides: We positioned ours 12 in. from the bottom, but you can adjust the location based on your needs. Secure the shelves to the sides using 2-in. screws and finish washers (Photo 2). Drill holes in the four cross slats 3/8 in. from the ends and fasten them to the sides with 3/4-in. screws.
With the rack assembled, we gave it two coats of lacquer. Lacquer is a durable finish, dries in minutes and comes in spray cans for quick, no-mess application.
After the finish dries, screw the four L-brackets to the sides of the racks, making sure to position them so they won’t interfere with the door hinges. Clamp the rack to the door, predrill mounting holes using the L-brackets as guides, and secure the rack to the door (Photo 3). Put a strip of tape 4 in. back from the front of the cabinet to indicate a ”No Parking” zone for items stored inside.