Organize Anything with Pegboard: 14 Ideas and Tips

• 'Small hole' pegboard is usually 1/8-in.-thick hardboard with 3/16-in.-diameter holes. The holes will accommodate only the smaller 1/8-in. pegs. This thickness is good for small projects and for hanging lighter weight stuff. But for heavy tools—and longevity—go with the thicker board.
• 'Large hole' pegboard is usually 1/4-in.-thick hardboard with 1/4-in.-diameter holes that will accept both 1/8-in. and 1/4-in. hooks. This is the type you need for workshops, garages and other heavy-use areas. Some pegboard shelves come with a melamine coating on one side.

• Install screw-in standoffs with spacers. The store-bought versions often have short screws with small heads and wimpy plastic spacers. Make your own using beefier washer-head screws and nuts for spacers. On larger panels, install standoffs in the center to maintain space and add support. Tip: Use hot-melt glue to hold these mid-panel spacers in place before you install the pegboard. (Learn the rest of our favorite hot glue gun hacks.)
• Create a frame for the back of the panel using 1x2s or 1x3s. For panels wider than 3 ft., add a 1x2 rib to the back every 2 ft. to support the weight of the tools and take the flex out of the panel.

Most home centers carry only hardboard pegboard, but you'll find other materials by searching online for 'metal pegboard' or 'plastic pegboard.'

• Metal pegboard has 1/4-in. holes and L-shape edge flanges that create built-in standoffs. The panel sizes are normally in 16-in. and 24-in. increments. Metal pegboard has a cool industrial look and is darn near indestructible.
• Metal pegboard strips are ideal for situations where you need a single, sturdy strip of pegboard—like in the garage for hanging long-handled tools. The strips have 1/4-in. holes and built-in edge flanges for standoffs, and they're outrageously sturdy.
• Plastic pegboard has 1/4-in. holes, folded edges to create standoffs and center ribs for rigidity. Many systems come with slide-in connectors for joining panels. It's at least as sturdy as hardboard pegboard.

You can craft your own hooks using stuff from the hardware aisle. Clip the tips from No. 6 hollow wall anchors, drive them into 1/4-in. pegboard holes, then secure your custom tool holder by driving screws into the anchors. Short 5/16-in.-diameter lag bolts fit snugly into 1/4-in. holes to create inexpensive hangers for lightweight objects.

Standard pegboard hooks can accommodate most tools—but sometimes you need a special place for special stuff.

Drill 1/4-in. holes in the backs of homemade shelves, then use those holes to slide the shelves over L-hooks. Or use cable staples to attach plywood shelves to standard pegboard shelf brackets. The staples allow you to slide the shelf back and forth so you can easily fit the shelf bracket 'legs' into the holes.

Most pegboard comes in two colors—boring white and boring brown. But it doesn't have to stay that way. Roll on a coat of primer followed by gloss or semigloss paint (glossy paints are easier to wipe clean). Apply light coats so you don't clog the holes. Then snazz it up with a frame. After we attached our pegboard to a 1x3 frame, we added corner blocks and trim with hot-melt glue—no fancy miter cuts or fasteners needed.

Pegboard is great for organizing kitchens, laundry rooms and bathroom cabinets. Rout a groove in a 1x2 frame using a rabbet bit, attach the pegboard with glue and brads, then mount it to the door. The frame helps support the edges of the pegboard and creates a 1/2-in. space behind the board so pegs can be inserted.