Step 1: Plan the size
For sound guidance and tips for building a first-class dog kennel, we contacted Lisa Peterson, director of
communications for the American Kennel
Club. She gave us design advice and also mentioned some of the most common mistakes.
We were hoping to get a sizing formula.
But it turns out there's no such
thing. Kennel sizing is based on how
much time your dog will be spending
in the kennel and how much room you
have to spare. If your dog is going to be
outside all day, he needs a larger kennel
so he can run and exercise. If you
make it too small, he'll take every
opportunity to “get even” with you and
your neighbors with nonstop barking
and other bad behaviors. So larger is
better.
Figure A: Outdoor Dog Kennel
Outfit your outdoor
kennel with the proper
flooring and drainage, a
shady area and a windbreak.
Pick up all the
materials at your local
home center.
Step 2: Choose fencing materials
For walls and doors, chain link fencing
is your best bet (4 ft. tall minimum,
and taller if you have a larger dog). It's
affordable and easy to assemble, and
you can buy premade wall and door
sections at any home center. Buy a
spring-loaded “snap clip” to secure the
swing-down latch (some dogs can figure
out how to open those latches and
escape).
If your dog is a digger, you'll have to
embed a “direct burial” treated 2x12
below the fence. Or bury the fence itself
about 1 ft. into the soil (see Figure A).
Those methods aren't foolproof, but
they'll usually prevent a “great escape.”
Screen off any sides that face streets or
sidewalks by sliding privacy slats
through the fencing. That'll cut down
on barking and overall stress.
Step 3: Choose the flooring
When it comes to flooring material,
concrete may seem like the best choice
because you can slope it for drainage
and it's easy to clean. But it's actually a
mistake. The hard floor will, over time,
cause calluses, worn pads, splayed
toes and painful joints. Instead, Lisa
recommends either large pea gravel
(some dogs eat smaller gravel) or large
flat stones (flagstone). The irregular
shapes actually help your dog develop
stronger paws. But before you throw
down gravel or set the stones, take the
time to install a sand base for drainage
at least 6 in. deep if you're building on
clay. Then lay down landscaping fabric
to prevent weed growth. You'll
probably scoop out gravel along with
the poop, so it'll need replenishing
every year. If you have enough space,
the ultimate dog oasis is a grassy area
within the kennel.
Several companies offer composite
flooring materials for dog kennels. It
definitely looks better than gravel and
is easy to clean. But if your dog likes to
chew things, it's not a good choice—unless, of course, your vet does free
surgery. Plan on a surfaced path to the
kennel. If you just have grass, you'll
soon have a muddy path. All that mud
will get tracked into the house.
Step 4: Plan for a doghouse or shading
Finally, dogs need protection from
the elements. A doghouse isn't mandatory,
but if you don't provide one, you
should at least install a small roof and
a windbreak. Dogs can withstand cold,
but not cold and wind or rain. An elevated
cot will get them off a freezing
cold or searing hot floor. Even if you
include a doghouse, provide other
shaded areas in the kennel (landscape
fabric stretched across the top works
well).
When placing a doghouse, avoid the
common DIY mistake of setting it in a
corner (the roof is a perfect launching
pad for a jump-over). Instead, locate it
outside the kennel with an entrance
hole cut through the fence. Or place it
in the center of the kennel. If you're
stuck with a corner location, make the
fence higher in that area to prevent
jump-outs.
