Solder up this trellis in a weekend with ordinary copper tubing.
Multiple Days
Intermediate
$51–100
Introduction
Build a unique, natural-looking garden trellis for your climbing flowers and vines using standard copper water pipe. This long-lasting copper trellis is made entirely from 1/2-in. and 3/4-in. copper pipe soldered into a repeating ladder pattern. Copy our design, or create your own using the techniques we show here.Tools Required
- Circular saw
- Clamps
- Hammer
- Needle-nose pliers
- Soldering torch
- Tin snips
- Tube cutter
Materials Required
- 1/2-lb. roll of solder
- 6d finish nails
- Eight 3” decking screws
- Five 10' lengths of 1/2” copper tubing
- Flux paste
- One 10' length of 1/2” electrical conduit (EMT)
- One 6” length of 1/2” steel pipe
- One 6” length of 3/8” steel pipe
- One roll of emery cloth
- Two 10' lengths of 3/4” copper tubing
- Two 2 x 4 x 8'
- Two 8' 2x4s
Copper is an ideal outdoor material for garden structures like this DIY trellis. Whether shiny or tarnished, it has a warm, natural look. It lasts for years without upkeep and it’s easy to work with and relatively inexpensive.
We’ll show you a unique joining method that allows you to solder the tubing together without fittings. To simplify the process, we’ll show you how to assemble a simple 2×4 jig to keep the tubes aligned while you solder them. Don’t worry if you’ve never soldered copper. This project is a great place to learn, since you don’t have to be concerned about critical plumbing joints leaking. If you goof up and one of the joints lets loose, just resolder it.
Even working at a casual pace, you’ll be able to complete this DIY trellis project in a weekend. You can pick up all the materials and tools at a home center. If you want to anchor the trellis in the ground, buy a 10-foot length of 1/2-inch electrical conduit (EMT).
Figure A (at the end of this post) shows how to build the jig. While it isn’t absolutely necessary, the jig simplifies the task of keeping the tubes aligned while you solder them together. You can also design your own trellis. Start by drawing the design on graph paper. Then, transfer the tubing spacing to the 2x4s and build the jig as shown. Make sure to slide the copper grids back and forth in the jig as you solder opposite sides to avoid getting the flame too close to the wood.
CAUTION: Call 811 to locate underground lines before you drive these tubes into the ground.
Project step-by-step (16)
Cut the copper tubes
If you object to the lettering on the copper tubes, remove it with steel wool or an abrasive nylon pad. Then, mark and cut the lengths of copper needed following the cutting list at the end of this post. You could use a hacksaw to cut the tubing, but a tubing cutter is much easier and results in a cleaner cut.
Start by snugging the wheel onto the tube at the cutting mark. Spin the cutter once around and tighten it a little. Continue spinning and tightening until the tube is cut.
After a few tries, you’ll know how much to tighten it each time for the most efficient cutting. If you plan to build several trellises, buy a top-quality tubing cutter. A good cutter will last a lifetime and give better results with less effort than an inexpensive cutter.
Flatten and shape the ends
Shape one end of each 30-inch horizontal tube to fit around the backside of the vertical tubing by flattening and forming it over a 1/2-inch (3/4-inch outside diameter) steel pipe, as shown.
Flatten the decorative ends
Form spear points on the ends of the tubes according to the plan. Start by flattening a 3-inch section of the end of the tubing against a scrap of hardwood lumber or other hard surface.
Cut and shape the decorative ends
Cut off the corners of the flattened ends with a compound tin snips or hacksaw and curl the tip with a needle-nose pliers.
Construct the jig
Construct a jig of 2x4s to support and align the copper tubing as you solder it together, as shown in Figure B at the end of this post. Mark the tube locations. Using a copper tube as a spacer, partially drive a pair of 6d finish nails at each mark.
Assemble the main frame
The 2×4 jig makes assembling the frames almost foolproof. Place the four 30-inch tubes for the main frame in the jig with all the formed ends on the same side. Rest the 3/4-in. tube on the formed ends. Mark where the tubes intersect and sand these areas.
Wipe on flux
Brush a thin layer of flux on all surfaces to be soldered. Then, reposition the 3/4-in. tube over the formed ends of the 1/2-in. tubes.
Solder the joints
With the tubes in place, it’s an easy task to mark where they intersect the 3/4-inch upright tubes. Then, sand and flux the marked areas. Make sure to orient the curled spear points in the same direction. Measure 8 inches from the top of the upright to the top of the horizontal tube and secure it with a spring clamp.
Heat the joint with a propane torch. Direct the flame to the bottom of the joint. After 10 seconds, apply solder to the joint. Solder all four joints. The key to a good soldering job is to thoroughly sand with emery cloth, flux the contact zone and apply just the right amount of heat.
The heat is right when solder flows easily into the joint. Remember to heat the joint for about 10 seconds first, then feed in about a 2-inch length of solder. Let the copper melt the solder, not the torch. If you heat the joint for too long, the flux will burn, and the solder may not stick. If this happens, let it cool. Then sand and flux the joint and try again. Be careful to let the copper tubing cool before touching it or removing it from the jig.
Pay attention to the orientation of the spear points when you’re soldering. It’s easy to get them twisted slightly or facing the wrong way. But don’t worry, this DIY trellis project’s rustic look makes it interesting, so it’s okay if it’s not perfect.
Form the other ends
After you solder the first joint, remove the clamp and solder the remaining three joints. Remove the half-built frame from the jig and form the opposite ends of the crosspieces.
Solder on the remaining upright
Return the main assembly to the jig and solder on the other 3/4-in. spear point tube.
Build the ladder frame
Build the ladder frame the same way. Measure down 12 inches from the top of the spear to the center of the first tube. And then solder the five 18-inch tubes to the upright tubes. Slide the tubes all the way to one side to solder the first tube. Then slide them to the opposite side to solder the second upright. Otherwise, you’ll burn the wood with the torch. Remove the completed ladder frame from the jig and reinstall the main frame between the nails.
Mark the areas to be sanded
Complete the assembly by sanding, fluxing and soldering on the two 1/2-inch spear point tubes.
Clip the ladder frame back into the jig on top of the main frame. Mark all eight points where the two frames intersect. Mark both frames. Then remove the ladder frame and flip it over to sand, and flux the marked areas.
Solder the ladder to the frame
Realign the ladder over the main frame. Clamp it in place and solder where the tubes intersect.
Also, sand and flux the marked areas on the main frame. Replace the ladder frame and solder the two frames together.
Solder the last spear point tubes
Repeat this process for the two additional tubes. There are no nails in the jig for the final two tubes. Position them according to the dimensions in Figure B and use spring clamps to hold them in place for soldering.
Install the completed DIY trellis
Drive 5-foot lengths of 1/2-in. metal conduit about 12 to 18 inches into the ground to support the DIY trellis. Drill 5/8-in. holes in a 1×4 and use it to hold the pipes at the correct distance apart. Remove the 1×4 and slide the trellis over the stakes.
Lay the trellis across a scrap 1×4 and mark the position of the 3/4-in. tubes. Drill two 5/8-in. holes centered on these marks. Use the 1×4 to hold the 1/2-inch EMT in position while you pound it in. Use a level as a guide to make sure your tubing is vertical.
Depending on the hardness of your soil, drive the 5-ft. tubes about 18 inches into the ground. Install the trellis by sliding it over the tubes and pushing it into the ground to level the horizontal tubing. Complete the project by planting your choice of climbing vine at the base of the trellis.
Additional resources
Figure A: Jig Assembly
Use 2x4s to build the jig for assembling the trellis.
Figure B: DIY Trellis Components
Build the main frame, then add the ladder frame.
Cutting list
KEY QTY. SIZE & DESCRIPTION
- A 2 80” lengths of 3/4” copper tubing
- B 4 30” lengths of 1/2” copper tubing
- C 2 69” lengths of 1/2” copper tubing
- D 5 18” lengths of 1/2” copper tubing
- E 2 57” lengths of 1/2” copper tubing