A garden path enhances any backyard. Learn about design factors, limitations and installation techniques for gravel, stone, brick and pavers, along with attractive edging options.

We tend to spend a lot of time planning the parts of our gardens and backyards. Flowers, trees, vegetables, bushes and shrubs come together to make a calm, beautiful outdoor oasis. One part of landscape design that’s easy to overlook is the space between the living elements, something that pulls together the different parts of the garden and lets the features really stand out.

One way to create that space is with a garden path.

Paths aren’t just negative space, though. They’re the perfect mix of form and function, giving you a route to enjoy your natural elements as well as a means of access to care for them. There are several ways to create a garden path. Three of the most popular include gravel, stone and pavers. Ultimately, choosing a type of path comes down to individual preference, but there are a few additional factors to weigh before you build your own.

Stone Paths

Stone paths are highly decorative and easy to lay. You fit them like a long, freeform puzzle. Stone rich in color and texture. Each piece is unique. And it’s timeless: A path installed yesterday may look as if it’s been there for generations. It’s the most expensive path material. This stuff is heavy, but surprisingly easy to install. In most cases, you simply set each piece on a layer of sand and level it. In high-use areas, fit each piece more tightly to lessen the chance of tripping.

Design factors

Best use: Stone is highly decorative and good for light to moderately heavy traffic. Best for foot traffic. It’s not so good for bikes, wheelbarrows and lawn mowers. The rough, uneven surface is difficult to shovel in winter.

Versatility: Ideal for minimal disturbance of gardens and lawn. Great for around trees because you don’t have to disturb the roots. Good material for an indecisive gardener—it’s easy to shift the entire path for a new rosebush!

Longevity/maintenance: The stones will last forever. You may have to lift and reset them if they dip or stick up too high.

Drainage: Let steppingstones follow the lay of the land. Water will run off into the joints. For tightly fitted stone, pitch the path about 1/4 in. per ft. to the side. Slopes: Build stone steps to match the path. Buy riser stones and large tread stones from the stone supplier.

Types of stone

Limestone, granite, sandstone and slate are the most common types, all available in various colors, sizes and shapes. Set them apart as steppingstones or fit them tightly for a more solid pathway. Select material that’s at least 1 in. thick to avoid cracking.

Sizes

• Steppers are small (15 in. across or less), light and easy to handle, but laying them is slow because you have to fit and level each one. Steppers are prone to wobbling and have to be reset more often than larger stones.
• Flagstones are large (24 to 48 in. across) irregular pieces. They’re slightly more expensive than steppers, but they’re versatile. You can always break a big piece to make smaller ones for tighter fits. Their size and weight helps keep them stable, and they’re less likely to shift and need resetting.
• Cut stone is the most expensive but easiest to fit tightly. It looks especially good when set between borders. However, cut stone will probably require more cutting to achieve the more exact fits.

Order your stone from a landscape or masonry supplier. The supplier will tell you how much coverage (square feet) to expect per ton.

How to make a stone path

Setting stone is a lot like putting together a big, heavy jigsaw puzzle. You first skim and flatten the proposed pathway, then dump in and smooth out a couple of inches of sand as a setting bed. Patience is essential when it comes to fitting. Spread out the stones and pick and choose for a pleasing pattern. The stones will weigh 60 to 200 lbs.! Like moving any heavy object, we recommend using a dolly to move stones into place. Finish by filling all the joints tightly with sand, soil or mulch (packed in). Plant a ground cover in the joints for an attractive appearance and to help hold the soil in place.

Gravel Paths

Gravel is the easiest to handle and least expensive path material. It feels soft underfoot, but it’s solid enough to handle a loaded wheelbarrow. And although it looks informal, it can complement a formal garden, especially if you add a stone border.

But gravel has several limitations. It’s not ideal for a walkway right to the back door—pebbles will stick to your shoes and end up on the kitchen floor. It’s not the best choice if you have to shovel snow off it in winter. You’ll end up picking rocks out of your garden and yard. And it’s tough on bare feet! Ask yourself if a gravel backyard is right for you.

Design factors

Best use: Gravel paths are best for light to moderate foot traffic.

Longevity/maintenance: A gravel path will last indefinitely, but it needs upkeep. To keep it looking sharp, rake it and pull weeds monthly. Every few years, top-dress it with a few buckets of new gravel.

Drainage: No special sloping needed. You can follow the grade of your yard, but avoid low spots.

Slopes: Avoid steep inclines. A heavy rain will wash all your hard work away. For steps, use timbers or stone.

Borders for gravel paths

Include a border in your plans. It’s essential for containing the gravel.

Metal edging: Thin metal edging offers a crisp, clean, “borderless” look. To contain the gravel, set the edging 1 in. higher than the path. Anchor it with the metal stakes provided. Metal edging is available in green or brown painted steel or aluminum in 8-ft. and 16-ft. lengths. Cut it with a circular saw equipped with a metal-cutting blade or a hacksaw.

Stone: Almost any stone can be used to border a path. Landscape suppliers will have several types. If possible, fit the stones tightly for a smooth appearance. Install the stones on an inch or so of gravel, then set them with a whack from a rubber mallet.

Brick: The brick border is a traditional style. Set the bricks upright at an angle or flat in the ground. Install them in a 2-in. sand bed, then surround them with the gravel and soil to lock them in place.

Types of gravel

Landscaping gravel types come in many sizes and colors. Ask for gravel that compacts well. It’ll typically have stones ranging in size from 3/4 in. down to a powder. Smaller stones (3/8 in.) are the most comfortable underfoot. Larger (3/4 in.) stones stay put better during rainstorms. Buy your gravel from a landscape supplier or directly from a quarry.

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How to build a gravel path

Laying a gravel path is mostly shovel and wheelbarrow work. You first flatten the pathway with a spade, skimming off sod if you’re crossing a lawn. Then set the borders and pour in about 3 in. of gravel. You’re moving a lot of weight. A strong back is essential—enlist a neighborhood teenager to help out. Have the gravel dumped on your driveway. Shoveling gravel off a lawn or tarp wastes time.

Pavers

Pavers have been around since the Romans cut stones and placed them on a gravel bed to make incredibly durable roads. They can withstand heavy use. Modern versions are made from concrete, clay or stone. A paver path is a labor-intensive project that requires the rental of a heavy plate compactor for proper installation. But the result is a permanent, tight-fitting, relatively smooth path that rivals solid concrete for durability.

Pavers are designed to lie in a tight pattern. Colors and patterns vary widely.

Design factors

Best uses: All-around excellent material for paths, walks and even driveways, since paver construction can withstand heavy weight. They’re highly decorative. You can choose from a variety of colors and patterns, creating anything from a formal English garden walk to an ancient-looking cobblestone path.

Versatility: Ideal for straight or curved paths. However, since pavers require a compact gravel base, changing the path later is a huge job. Use with caution around mature trees, so as not to damage the roots.

Longevity/maintenance: This type of path will last a lifetime. To avoid weeds, sweep off dirt so it doesn’t accumulate in the joints. Every few years, sweep more sand into the joints to keep the pavers secure.

Drainage: Set the path to drain at 1/4 in. per ft. to the side. Set the pavers slightly above the surrounding grade. Slopes: Pavers can be laid on steep inclines (if you can walk up it, pavers can be laid on it), but don’t use them for steps. Use stone, concrete or wood for the steps instead.

Types of pavers

Concrete pavers are the most common and diverse, available in different colors and shapes. You can arrange each shape in a number of patterns. They have beveled edges for easier fitting and shoveling. Expect them to last 30 years or more. The color will fade slightly as they weather.

Clay pavers were commonly used for streets in the 1900s. Many versions are available today, from soft-textured molded styles to crisper “wire cut” types. Color retention and durability are excellent. Set them perfectly even; the edges on some types can chip. Be sure what you buy is a paver, not a house brick, which is softer and will deteriorate. Stone pavers are the most expensive, at least twice the price of clay or concrete pavers. They’re often tumbled to make them look old. They’re incredibly hard and difficult to cut, but they’re attractive and will last a lifetime.

You’ll find the largest selection of all types of pavers at a landscape, brick or stone supplier. You can usually find concrete pavers at home centers as well.

How to build a paver path

Setting pavers is a lot of repetitious work and isn’t a job for a novice. You first dig a pathway about 9 in. deep and fill and compact the base material (gravel that packs well) with a special plate compactor.

Then you lay the edging, spread and level a bed of sand and drop in the pavers. You usually have to cut some pavers to fit with a saw and diamond blade. To finish, you set the pavers with the plate compactor and then sweep sand into the joints.

Every spring, an annual ritual is re-enacted in garages and sheds all across America: the opening of old paint cans. You may have lived through this before — gingerly pulling the top off an old paint can and peering inside, hoping it’s still usable. These days, it’s often accompanied by frantic internet searches for “Can paint freeze?”

But we’ve got you covered! Here’s the lowdown on whether paint freezes, what kinds of paint are most vulnerable to freezing, and how to deal with frozen paint.

Can Paint Freeze?

The short answer is yes. The more nuanced answer is that it depends on the paint, and how cold it gets inside your garage.

Home paints can generally be divided into latex or oil-based paints. Latex paints contain water, while oil paints contain an alkyd resin and a petroleum product, such as naphtha. These two types of paint react very differently to cold weather.

“For the most part DIYers only really need to worry about water-based paint freezing,” says Brandon Walker, Superintendent with ASAP Restoration. “Oil-based paint will freeze, but only in extreme conditions like the Alaskan tundra during winter.”

At What Temperature Does Paint Freeze?

Water-based paints freeze at or below 32ºF. The specific temperature at which a given paint will freeze will depend on the ingredients of the paint. A water-based paint’s blend of ingredients can lower its freezing point in the same way salt lowers water’s freezing point. It’s not a dramatic change, but it can give you a little leeway in a mild cold snap.

Oil-based paint is extremely unlikely to freeze in your garage. Unlike oil-based craft paint (which often uses a linseed oil base, and freezes around -4ºF), oil-based house paints can withstand almost any recorded temperature in the continental US.

Does Paint Get Ruined if It Freezes?

In almost all cases, yes, paint does get ruined if it freezes.

“All paint will be denatured if it freezes,” says Walker. “When water-based paint freezes it ruins the texture and consistency of the paint. This means that even when it thaws out again, it won’t work the way it did before the freeze occurred. It’s a lot like freezing milk — when it thaws out, you have milky water, and a lot of clumps that don’t look right. Paint will do the same thing.”

Making things worse is that the paint will likely go through many freeze/thaw cycles over the course of a winter. The best way to deal with frozen paint is to keep it from freezing in the first place.

How To Keep Paint From Freezing

The easiest way to keep paint from freezing is to store your paint inside, or in a temperature-controlled garage.

The pros I spoke with suggested taking a few simple steps, such as fully closing the lid to prevent evaporation and storing paint in a temperature-controlled room such as a basement or closet, to avoid freezing.

“We always recommend inside the house and never in the garage or a storage shed unless they are heated,” says Anthony Kulikowski, Franchise Owner of Five Star Painting of South Bend Indiana.

Can You Use Paint That Has Frozen?

First and foremost, it’s important to emphasize that most paint that has frozen will be ruined. “Frozen paint will be denatured and clumpy even after it thaws,” says Walker, who compares thawed paint to “applying cottage cheese to your walls. If you don’t mind bubbles, inconsistencies, and defects, then it’ll work but not look good.”

In other words, nothing’s stopping you if you want to take the chance on frozen paint, just know that you’re risking quality. If you want to roll the dice, allow the paint to warm up to room temperature slowly, then stir it well. If it looks like cottage cheese, it’s a loss, and you should dispose of it properly. If the paint color and consistency appear normal, you can give it a try.

Even then, it may not perform as expected. “Once a paint has frozen,” cautions Kulikowski, “the color and sheen may not match any longer, and you may have issues with getting it to bond properly as well.”

In short, if you don’t want to throw away your thawed paint, it’s best to use it on projects where appearance and durability aren’t as important.

FAQ

Are there any types of paint that won’t freeze?

Oil-based paints are very unlikely to freeze. However, do get thicker (more viscous) and are often unusable in freezing conditions. “When oil-based paint gets too cold,” explains Walker, “the viscosity of the paint is affected, and it starts to run more like molasses than syrup. Additionally, there are temperature ranges in which paint dries and cures.”

Does wood stain freeze, too?

Absolutely, says Scott Paul, Owner of DeckStainHelp.com. He advises looking for the following signs that your wood stain has gone bad: “excessive thickening, jelling/clumping of the material or skinning on the top portion.”

About the Experts

Anthony Kulikowski has been a painter since high school, working as a contractor just before opening Five Star Painting, a Neighborly company, in 2017. He loves seeing his team succeed, giving back to the community, and working with his mentors, gathering knowledge he can share with future franchise owners.

Brandon Walker has been in the painting and construction industry for more than 20 years. After running his own company, he decided to advance his skills as a Superintendent with ASAP Restoration. Brandon cut his teeth as a teenage painter working for Walker Paint Masters doing commercial projects for Planet Hollywood and Elizabeth Arden’s Red Door Spa among others.

Scott Paul has used and sold enough decking and wood stain to cover over 100 million square feet. The owner of DeckStainHelp.com, he started his first decking company in 1993. That business evolved into exterior wood and deck restoration, and today Scott and his companies have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area. He is an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites.

Walking into your home after a long day should bring a sigh of relief. Kick your feet up! You’re home. But opening the door to find the aftermath of a break-in? There’s nothing more unsettling. Increasing your home security is a great way to keep intruders out. But how? There are a lot of choices out there.

“Before diving into home security considerations, it’s essential to identify your primary concern: safeguarding your property when you’re at home, or protecting it when you’re away,” says Kirk MacDowell, home security expert at Batten, a company that advises consumers on security needs. Do you have young children? Multiple access points? Valuable tools or art? And what about the cost of home security systems? Can that play a role?

Of course, it can — and it should. Ahead, we explore home security with MacDowell and ADT expert Andrea Barge to help you navigate your options.

How Much Does a Home Security System Cost?

It depends on several factors, including the size of your home, the number of windows and doors you need to protect, and whether you get cameras and specialized sensors. “I’d estimate the cost at roughly $1 per square foot,” MacDowell says, so for a 2,000 square foot house, plan to spend “around $2000 for a comprehensive system, although costs can vary.”

Barge agrees that costs are variable, and points to ADT’s starter kit, with a hub, two sensors, app access and a Google Nest doorbell for under $400. “The pricing of security system installations can vary significantly, largely depending on the type of installation and the specific features or packages you choose,” Barge says.

Home Security System Cost Breakdown

The devil’s in the details, and security systems are no different. Here’s a breakdown of average costs, according to our experts and SafeWise’s research of national companies (in parentheses, rounded to the nearest dollar).

• Equipment: In addition to the hub, which is generally included, you can get contact sensors ($28), motion detectors ($40), glass-break sensors ($62), indoor/outdoor cameras ($164/$174) and video doorbells ($168). Packages may incorporate all or some of this equipment in a single fee.
• Installation: “While many national security companies offer free installation, there are some that charge, with costs typically ranging from $100 to $400,” Barge says.
• Monitoring: Self-monitoring ($24) costs less than live monitoring ($43), per month, according to Safewise.
• Permits: Some cities, like Dallas, where I live, require you to get a permit if your alarm could trigger a police call or be heard by neighbors. This fee helps offset nuisance alarm calls.

If you have a smaller budget, it’s still possible to get a good security system. MacDowell says “the absolute must-haves would be safeguarding doors and windows against intrusion, along with potentially incorporating at least one camera for added surveillance.”

Types of Home Security Systems

Cost isn’t your only consideration when it comes to choosing a home security system. Another choice? Wired or wireless. “You can still get either a hard-wired or wireless system, depending on your preference — though both types have their advantages and disadvantages,” Barge says.

Wired Home Security Systems

Wired systems have fewer components, which reduces complexity, Barge says. Wired systems are also “less prone to power depletion, not as susceptible to electrical interference, and video recording persists even during internet disruptions,” Barge says. They’re reliable and permanent.

But, wired systems are harder to install, and they demand precise execution, MacDowell says: “This entails drilling holes, extensive wiring and meticulous installation procedures.” Unless you’re a dedicated DIYer, this may be a hurdle.

Wireless Home Security Systems

Barge points to many benefits of wireless security systems: portability, battery operation, firmware upgrades and seamless integration with other smart home devices.

Hybrid Home Security Systems

Then there’s a third option: a hybrid. “[H]omeowners may already have a pre-existing wired security system they wish to enhance with wireless elements, such as integrating interactive services,” Barge says. Hybrid feasibility is highly dependent on your current setup, and the components you want to add.

DIY Home Security Systems

So, is installing a home security system a job best left to the pros, or can you handle it? “Homeowners can certainly DIY a home security system,” Barge says. “This option is great for those who enjoy hands-on projects, and prefer to have immediate control over the placement and setup of their security devices.”

What about monitoring? If you DIY your security system, will someone be there to help you when you need it? Yes. “DIY systems can absolutely have live monitoring, which is highly recommended for comprehensive security coverage,” MacDowell says. Barge says professional (live) monitoring offers peace of mind, while self-monitoring gives you more control.

DIY vs. Traditional Home Security Systems: Which Is the Best?

So, which system feels right? It’s really a matter of personal preference.

“DIY security systems are generally the easiest to install for most homeowners,” Barge says. “They come with clear instructions, and can typically be set up without any specialized tools or technical expertise.” There’s no poking around in your attic, or cutting holes in your walls, or having an installer out to your house.

Both options offer monitoring by you or a live person. Self-monitoring is generally less expensive, but it puts the onus on you to call for help. With professional monitoring, someone is watching at all times. Barge says this is a good option for someone who is not always on their phone, or goes out of town frequently.

One note from Barge, if you do go the DIY route: “When selecting smart home devices to integrate into your household, ensure they are compatible with your existing smart home security system.” The last thing you want to do is spend a bunch of time installing things yourself, only to find the devices don’t communicate.

FAQ

What’s the best type of home security system?

It depends on your preferences, but as far as popularity goes, wireless gets the nod. User-friendly, portable and customizable, “wireless systems have become the norm in residential settings, reflecting their ease of installation and heightened security features,” MacDowell says.

And wireless is getting better every day, by enhancing sensor range and “incorporating encrypted sensor technology to thwart unauthorized access attempts,” MacDowell says.

Are home security systems worth it?

The experts say yes. Burglary is a crime of opportunity, and burglars are less likely to target a house with a security system. The average loss from a burglary in 2019 was $2,661, according to the FBI, so if your home security system costs less than that, it pays for itself every time a burglar decides your house isn’t worth the trouble.

Does having a home security system reduce home insurance rates?

Generally, yes. Check with your insurance company to see how much. Many large and small companies, including Progressive, State Farm and Hippo, offer discounts for installing smart devices, security cameras and monitors. Your savings (up to 20% according to Safewise) depends on your insurance company and the security components you choose.

About the Experts

• Kirk MacDowell is home security expert at Batten, a group of security industry professionals helping consumers navigate the world of at-home, online and emergency security needs. MacDowell is a former law enforcement officer and the founder and CEO of MacGuard Security Advisors.
• Andrea Barge is director of product management at ADT, a leader in home security for nearly 150 years.

Sources

• ADT: “How Do Burglars Break into Houses?“
• FBI: “2019 Crime in the United States: Property Crime“
• Kirk MacDowell, home security expert at Batten; email interview, Mar. 29, 2024
• Andrea Barge, director of product management at ADT; email interview, Mar. 29, 2024
• SafeWise: “Can Purchasing a Home Security System Decrease My Homeowners Insurance?“
• SafeWise: “How Much Does a Security System Cost?“
• City of Dallas: “Online Security Alarm Permit Registrations“
• Brian E. Martinez, senior corporal with the Dallas Police Department; email interview, Sept. 21, 2023

Electricity is the miraculous force of nature upon which modern civilization is built, but too much of it can be a bad thing. Imagine what would happen if the high-voltage signal in the power lines, or the immense energy of a lightning bolt, were to pass directly into your home appliances.

Such an electrical surge would be a disaster, but it’s one you can prevent with a surge protector. The big question is: “How much does a whole-house surge protector cost?” The answer is anywhere from $70 to $700, not including installation.

I can attest to the damage a power surge can cause. Years ago, a lightning strike destroyed our solar energy system, knocking out the inverter and the control panel for the generator. Would a surge protector have saved our system? I consulted Jay Sanders, a Batimore-based general contractor, and Kent Boll, who founded his own electrical company in 2005 and is now CEO of a multi-trade home-maintenance company based in Minnesota, for the answer. Here’s what they told me.

What Is a Whole House Surge Protector?

A whole-house surge protector is a device that detects an unsafe electrical surge and diverts it away from your home’s service panel. “Like a bouncer for your home’s electrical system, it stands guard, ready to block or redirect any sudden spikes in electrical current that could harm your appliances and gadgets,” says Sanders.

“It’s a crucial piece of equipment in regions susceptible to lightning or frequent power surges, offering an additional protective measure for precious electronics and appliances,” adds Boll.

Types of Whole House Surge Protectors

Sanders and Bell identify three types of surge protectors:

Type 1

Installed between the power meter and the grid, this type protects your electrical system from external surges that might be caused by lightning or a malfunction in the power lines.

Type 2

This is the more common type. Installed directly in the panel, this surge protector protects your electrical system from both external surges and internal surges, which might occur when a large appliance switches on.

Type 3

Besides the two main types, Boll also identifies a third type that may be installed on an electric outlet or power cord. “While they are not technically whole-house protection devices,” he says, “they are often used with Type 2 protection devices to provide a layered approach to surge protection, protecting susceptible electronics such as televisions, computers, and gaming consoles.”

How Does a Whole House Surge Protector Work?

Sanders puts this in simple terms: “It is like a filter. When it senses too much voltage, it channels the excess away from your home’s circuits, preventing damage to your electronics.”

Boll explains in more detail:

“The surge protector persistently oversees the voltage entering the home’s electrical panel. If the voltage surpasses the standard threshold (usually 120V in the U.S. for residential settings), the device recognizes this as a power surge and promptly diverts the surplus voltage away from the home’s electrical circuits, typically by grounding it (discharging it into the earth), where it poses no risk. Once the overvoltage has ceased, the device automatically resets, and normal electrical flow is restored without interrupting the power in the home.”

How Much Does a Whole House Surge Protector Cost?

The cost to purchase a whole-house surge protector ranges from $70 to $700, with the national average being around $300, according to Sanders. On top of this are installation costs, billed at a typical rate between $50 to $100 per hour (depending on the installer).

Whole house surge protector cost breakdown

• Device: $70 to $700
• Installation: It takes a licensed electrician about two hours to install a whole-house surge protector, with labor costs typically between $150 and $200.

Type 3 surge protectors are far less expensive, costing $20 to $30 and requiring no professional installation.

Can You Install a Whole House Surge Protector Yourself?

Installing a whole house surge protector isn’t a DIY job, according to Sanders. “It involves messing with your home’s main electrical panel, which can be dangerous if you’re not a pro. So, it’s a solid “no” for DIY and a “yes” for calling in a licensed electrician.”

Boll concurs: “Only a professional electrician is familiar with local building codes and electrical standards to ensure that the installation meets all regulatory requirements and does not void warranties or insurance policies.”

Benefits of a Whole House Surge Protector

• They protect your appliances: Even small power surges can damage expensive appliances, particularly those with sensitive control boards, such as refrigerators and air conditioners.
• They protect your electronic devices and data: Laptops, computers and other devices can lose valuable information when a power surge forces them to shut down.
• They prevent fires: Power surges cause overheating, electrical arcing and fires.

Are There Rebates or Tax Breaks for Whole House Surge Protectors?

“Depending on the location, there are indeed certain state incentives available,” says Boll. “Some regions may offer incentives as part of broader initiatives to promote energy efficiency or electrical safety in homes. To find out if there are any incentives available in your area, check with local utility companies, state departments of energy, or energy conservation and efficiency websites.”

When Should You Replace a Whole House Surge Protector?

The metal oxide varistors inside whole-house surge protectors tend to corrode and wear out fairly quickly. Online experts tend to recommend replacement after two to three years, and the longest you should wait is five years.

Is a Whole-House Surge Protector Worth It?

When you compare the whole-house surge protector cost to that of losing your essential appliances in a power surge, the surge protector wins by a mile, especially if you live in an area with higher-than-average electrical storm activity.

About the Experts

• Jay Sanders is a licensed contractor. He’s been working on construction for more than 10 years and is CEO of Maryland Contractors, which offers building and renovation services in the Baltimore area.
• Kent Boll entered his family electrical business and founded Boy’s Electric in 2005. In 2017, he founded Airtech, which offered HVAC and plumbing as well as electrical services. He is currently CEO of Service Today!, which adds pool maintenance to its list of services.

Being a solo homeowner means I’m responsible for ALL of the chores. From cleaning the house to maintaining the lawn, it’s a lot of work, so I try to find the best tools to keep everything maintained. Although I eventually wanted to purchase one of the best robot lawn mowers to take on the job of mowing the lawn for me, I wanted to find a solid electric mower I could use in the meantime.

I tested the EGO Self-Propelled lawn mower to see if it’s up to standard and makes mowing the lawn less of a chore. After four cuts, it’s already better than my old push-mower and officially the newest addition to my time-saving tool stockpile. The EGO Self-Propelled lawn mower is officially my new favorite lawn tool and an option I confidently recommend to other homeowners looking for a powerful mower with all the bells and whistles

What is the EGO Self-Propelled Mower?

The EGO Self-Propelled lawn mower is a 21-inch 56-volt Lithium-ion Self-Propelled cordless lawn mower that is great for small to medium-sized lawns. From the EGO Power+ Line of cordless power tools, the EGO mower is advertised to have the “power and performance of petrol, but without the noise, fuss and fumes.”

After using the EGO mower, I can confirm that this is a powerful unit that lives up to the hype. This mower has an abundance of features, including LED lights, an impressive runtime, a self-propel feature and the ability to fold the mower to store compactly. Outside of features, this mower packs a punch and has simplified my mowing experience.

EGO Self-Propelled Mower Features

Pre-Assembled

The EGO Self-Propelled mower came pre-assembled and took less than 10 minutes to remove the secure packaging and adjust to my preference. As a note, the angle of the mower handle is adjustable, but the length is not since the handle must be fully extended for the unit to function. The battery arrived half-charged, and it took around 30 minutes to fully charge and get outside.

Ease of Use

The EGO Self-Propelled mower is extremely easy to use. The unit is lightweight and has smooth rolling wheels, allowing it to glide over your lawn. The handle deck includes instructions with photos to remind you to extend the handle fully, press the start button and then squeeze the bar to start mowing. The self-propel feature is also easy to use and only requires you to set your speed and squeeze one or both of the green handles to start. The mower didn’t have any issues getting over yard debris or raised areas in my yard and was able to easily take curves around trees and a fire pit.

Cutting Specifications

The EGO mower can customize both your cut type and style when mowing. This mower can cut in six heights ranging from 1.5 to 4.0 inches and can mulch, bag or discharge grass clippings from the side. I love the ability to change the way I cut to prioritize the health of my yard. When the grass is too long, I love raising the height and bagging any excess grass and then lowering the height and mulching the rest to help increase my soil health and reduce weeds. Switching between functions is simple and takes minimal time.

Battery Life

The EGO Mower comes with numerous battery configurations when purchasing your mower. For my lawn, I opted for the single 7.5Ah battery. This battery is a little heavier than other batteries I’ve used, coming in right around 6 pounds, but it packed a punch. The EGO brand prides itself on its batteries and includes many features within its battery line including keep-cool technology and fast charging.

The battery lasted me a full 40 minutes while using the self-propel feature on a lower to medium setting, and just under 50 minutes when I used the feature on low. My yard is mostly flat so using the self-propel feature on its fastest setting isn’t needed, but if I had more hills, I would expect the battery to last 30+ minutes on the highest speed. If you do have a yard that has more hills, I would recommend getting a backup battery to account for the use of the self-propel feature. The one thing I don’t love about the EGO battery is the cost-it’s expensive compared to other electric mowers on the market so purchasing a backup can be pricey.

Extra Features

The EGO mower has a few extra features outside of its amazing battery life and versatility. This includes independently controlled LED lights for added visibility, the ability to fold for compact storage between cuts and up to a 5-year warranty on the unit itself.

How We Tested It

After a few weeks of higher-than-normal temperatures, I was able to put the EGO mower to the test on the first mow of the season. That was followed by three additional mows after a week of rain that resulted in thick grass and some exploding clover patches in my yard. While my medium-sized yard is mostly flat, I do have some small hills in my backyard, a ton of trees and a firepit that always seemed to be a nuisance to cut around with my old mower, so I made sure to check the EGO mower’s maneuverability with these obstacles.

Cut Quality

The most important aspect of a mower is how well it cuts your lawn. With as many cut options as this mower has, I was already expecting a good cut but was still surprised by just how great it was. The first time using this mower was my first lawn cutting of spring, so the grass and weeds were overgrown and things were a mess. Despite that, the ECO Mower cut through everything like butter. Even when hitting the worst parts of my lawn that would have choked up previous mowers, I had no issues with the EGO mower. The cut on my lawn was even and clean, and after my fourth mow, I’m still just as impressed.

Maneuverability

With my yard having multiple obstacles, maneuverability is very important. To test the maneuverability, I pushed this mower to all the problem spots to see how it would do. The wheels spun smoothly and handled pits and roots like a champ. This mower has a great turn radius, and didn’t give me any issues when making my way through the trees and around the fire pit. Plus, the mower is surprisingly light, clocking in at a dainty 62 pounds—an impressive 10 pounds lighter than my old gas mower—which made it easy to push.

Speed

The self-propulsion feature is a fantastic way to make mowing your lawn less of a chore. The EGO Self-Propelled mower provides variable speed propulsion ranging from 1.3 MPH to 3.1 miles per hour. This is a huge help on hills and is a great way to make the work on flat laws go faster.

Pros

• Solid tool for a competitive price. The features and build of a more expensive mower for a mid-tier price
• Handle-mounted controls and lights make maneuvering the mower comfortable and easy
• LED headlight helps improve visibility
• Ability to fold for compact storage

Cons

• The self-propel feature while helpful, decreases the runtime drastically if used on the highest setting
• Extra batteries are expensive compared to other brands

FAQ

Can EGO mowers cut wet grass?

On their website, EGO answers this question stating, “In theory, there’s no safety issue from a battery-operated EGO lawn mower but there are a few reasons why you should avoid using it while the grass is wet.” The reasons range from lawn or mower damage to a very low risk of electrocution, so we suggest you don’t mow wet grass and instead wait for your lawn to try.

How many years will an EGO battery last?

On their website, EGO confirms, “Due to their high capacity, all EGO batteries can be stored unattended for a minimum of 10 years without damaging capacity and cycle performance.” In addition, EGO offers up to a 3-year battery warranty when registered within 30 days of purchase.

Are EGO and Ryobi the same?

EGO and Ryobi are not the same and are owned and produced by different companies. Ryobi is owned by Techtronic Industries, which also owns Milwaukee tools, while EGO is owned by Chervon which owns other popular tool brands like FLEX and Skil/Skilsaw. It’s an easy mistake to make, though, since the brands have a similar green and black color scheme,

What other reviewers and experts have to say

The EGO mower has extremely positive reviews, earning it a 4.6/5 star rating on Amazon with over 1,500 ratings. Many mention that the mower cuts well and is high quality, and they enjoy the ability to choose between the mulching, bagging or expelling options.

Experts also give very positive feedback when it comes to the EGO mower. Jeremy Yamaguchi, the CEO of Lawn Love says, “This is a great lawn mower. EGO has the top-rated battery platform due to its battery’s durability and performance. ARC Li-ion batteries have a shock-resistant design, and they rarely overheat.” He continues, “The mower’s 56-volt ARC Li-ion battery combines with a high-efficiency brushless motor to give it 6 foot-pounds of cutting torque. It’s the ideal mower for carbon-conscious homeowners with flat lawns up to one-half acre, and it’s one of the best lawn mowers at its price point.”

EGO Self-Propelled Mower vs. Ryobi 40V Mower

After trying both the EGO Self-Propelled mower and the Ryobi 40V mower, I don’t think there’s much of a competition. In all categories other than price, I believe the EGO is superior for those with a mid-sized lawn. The EGO has a superior motor (56V vs. 40V HP) which allows for more power when cutting your lawn. That paired with its upgraded 7.5Ah battery compared to Ryobi’s 5.0Ah means you’re spending less time charging, as well as fewer stops to re-charge your battery. EGO’s additional features, including its ability to fold for compact storage and powerful LED lights, are bonuses for this highly efficient unit.

If you have a smaller yard or budget, the Ryobi mower still has features that could make it an option. In fact, Ryobi made our list of the best mowers for small yards. If you’re looking for a mower with more power, a longer battery life and better ease of use, the EGO is well worth the extra money.

Final Verdict

Overall, I believe this mower is one of the best options available at this price point. It checks all the boxes to make mowing the lawn easier and less of a chore. Not only is the EGO Mower priced competitively in the market, but it includes more features and abilities than other mowers. Since trying, I’ve decided I’m no longer willing to live without those bonus features. The multiple cutting and disposal options of this mower, along with its ease of use and added LED visibility, I don’t know what this mower can’t do. I’ve tested multiple electric mowers, and this is at the top of my list. My final verdict? I love it.

Where to Buy the EGO Self-Propelled Mower

The EGO Self-Propelled mower is available online at Lowe’s and Amazon. At Lowes, the mower is available without the battery and charger for $499, or for $699 with the battery and the charger. If you don’t have an EGO-compatible battery for other tools, it is a much better deal to buy the combination deal, since the 7.5Ah battery separately is sold for $399.

At Amazon, the mower is only sold as a package deal with the mower, battery, and charger. It is usually listed for $649, though we have seen the price drop to $549 a few times a year. If you don’t need a mower immediately, waiting for a sale could get you a killer deal.

The cost of tree removal is a key consideration when deciding whether to remove a tree from your yard. In addition to beautifying your landscape, filtering the air, lowering energy bills and making us happier, healthy yard trees can add up to 20 percent to your home’s resale value, according to a 2021 study conducted by the University of Nebraska-Lincoln’s Bureau of Business Research.

Healthy plants have a higher value, so you want to keep them healthy as long as you can. But sometimes, the worst happens and a tree is fatally injured in an ice storm or pests, or one grows perilously close to the house or power lines. In these cases, the trees usually have to go.

Ahead you’ll learn what factors go into tree removal costs to help you decide how to take care of your trees.

Factors That Determine the Cost of Tree Removal

“Just like every fingerprint, every single tree is different and unique,” says Jason Hayes of Davey Tree Care Service. “That goes for every tree removal, too. To give an accurate tree removal cost, an arborist needs to see it in person.”

Tree removal can cost from hundreds of dollars to thousands, depending on the size and location of the tree, the difficulty of access, and the scope of the job.

Location

Each region and city has unique factors that influence local market costs, including demand, accessibility of services, market and supply costs, and population density.

Size of Tree

Mature, multilimbed trees are more difficult to handle safely and take longer to remove.

Client Specifications

Sometimes, Hayes says, the client asks that equipment not be used on the lawn, for instance, which may necessitate more time and labor.

Equipment, Time and Crew Required

The more people, heavy equipment, and time needed to complete and clean up the job, the higher the cost.

When to Call a Pro

Even if you are athletic and know how to handle a chainsaw, tree removal is serious, often dangerous work – especially if it involves ladders or climbing.

“A great rule of thumb for DIY tree care is that if you would have to use a ladder to reach and remove tree limbs, that tree is too big for you to work on safely without the help of a pro,” says Hayes. “The same rule should be applied to tree removal. If you are wondering if you should call in a professional or not, then you probably should.”

Questions to Ask Tree Removal Contractors

“Before hiring someone to remove a tree, the two most important questions to ask are if they are International Society of Arboriculture (ISA)-certified and if they have their own company insurance – you should also see proof of both of these things before signing on the dotted line,” says Hayes. “ISA Certification will ensure that you are hiring someone who is safe, reliable, educated, and efficient. For insurance, if you hire someone who does not have insurance, any property damage or injuries that may occur could be your fiscal responsibility.”

After that, check their reviews online or ask for referrals. Hayes suggests asking them to “specify how they plan on removing the tree, what equipment they will be using, the path they will be taking to get to the tree, and if they are going to be removing the limbs and tree from the property when the job is finished.”

FAQ

What time of year is the best for tree removal?

“The dormant season is the best time of year for tree pruning because bare branches make it easier for arborists to inspect trees,” notes Hayes. “Dormant tree pruning also decreases the likelihood of attack from insect pests and pathogens.”

Regardless of the season, if the tree is a hazard, threatening to fall on property or utility lines or harboring contagious diseases or pests, it should be removed as soon as possible.

Do you need permission to remove trees from your property?

Many municipalities are adding tree protection laws to help preserve as much mature tree canopy as possible because of its environmental benefits. Regulations and fees vary by location, with each city or neighborhood setting specific rules, so always check those first. You can usually find these on your municipality’s website; try searching “trees.”

Does removing trees negatively affect house value?

It depends. It can lower property value if you remove trees that are healthy.

“Trees add a lot of value to properties because of their many benefits, such as cutting heating and cooling costs, stormwater reduction and more. Just having a nice, healthy tree in the front lawn can increase property values by 10% or higher,” says Hayes. In other words, you’ll want to consider carefully whether it makes sense to remove a healthy tree, even if it’s blocking a desired view.

Christina Pfeiffer, a horticultural educator, recommends keeping your trees as healthy as possible and pausing before removing them. “Trees are the ones that contribute the most to our home environments with the potential to do so for the longest time. Also, if we lose trees it takes a long time to replace the benefits they provide,” says Pfeiffer.

“It makes good sense if your tree has issues that need attention or you are concerned that your tree might not be safe, you want to hire someone with the expertise to sort that out who can give you a good plan. Sometimes there are things they can do to address all those concerns and keep the tree on the site.”

However, Hayes adds, “But if a tree is in extreme decline and is a potential hazard, it can decrease property value and curb appeal. In this case, it’s important to contact a certified arborist to discuss next steps for the tree.”

About the Experts

Jason Hayes is an ISA-Certified Arborist® and Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) who holds an associate degree in agriculture from Purdue University, where he also studied forestry. He is a Davey Tree Care Service district manager in the Southeast Seattle, Washington office.

Christina Pfeiffer is a horticultural educator with over 30 years of experience in landscape management and arboriculture. She holds horticulture degrees from the University of Washington and Michigan State University. She is the co-author of “Pacific Northwest Gardening: Month-by-Month.”

Sources

• Arbor Day Foundation: “Trees Have a $31.5 Billion Impact on Home Values“
• Arbor Day Foundation: “Benefits of trees“

When your house or apartment was being built, electricians like me installed the boxes that hold receptacles and light switches in your walls. They nailed or screwed electrical boxes right to the studs, so the boxes (and the electrical devices they now hold) can’t move once the wall is finished.

But what if you get sick of your kitchen, and decide to install a tile backsplash over the existing wall? The boxes aren’t going anywhere, so the extra layer makes the box sit deeper in the wall than it’s supposed to — and that’s not good.

Why? Safety. Below, I’ll explain why (and how) to fix this problem with an electrical box extender.

Introduction to Electrical Box Extenders

So what’s the big deal about a box that’s a little deep in the wall? If there’s a problem like arcing or sparking inside the box, exposed building materials could ignite. Electrical box extenders are sturdy rings that attach to an existing electrical box, covering the newly installed wall material so it’s protected.

Once installed, the extender brings the box edge flush with the surface. Non-combustible wall materials like tile and drywall are only allowed to be set back 1/4 inch or less from the finished surface. If your wallboard is plywood or another combustible material, the box must be flush. An extender can be used in either scenario.

Electrical Box Extender Material Types

Residential box extenders are usually made of PVC. The most common colors are blue, gray and white, depending on the brand. Metal box extenders also exist, but if the box in your wall is plastic, which is likely in residential wiring, use a plastic (PVC) extender.

Box extenders come in “single-gang,” which means the box holds one device only, as well as two-gang and multiple-gang. Some extenders are “gangable,” meaning you can connect them together, but that’s more likely to be found on metal extenders.

Box extenders must be listed, or approved, by an accredited listing organization, like UL.

When to Use Electrical Box Extenders

The most common reason to use a box extender is if you need to add a layer of material to the wall. They can also correct a device that isn’t secure in the box. This can happen if the gap around the electrical box is too big, giving the device’s mounting straps very little wall to grab. The gap should be 1/8 inch or less— if yours is bigger, fill the gap with drywall joint compound.

Tools and Materials Needed for Installation

Installing box extenders is a doable DIY task. Here are the necessary tools and materials required.

• Non-contact voltage tester
• Standard (flat) screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Electrical box extender with two 6-32 screws

Short Overview of the Installation Process

First, turn off the power at the breaker. Then, use a non-contact voltage tester (as detailed in the next section) to ensure all circuits in the box are off. Then, you’ll remove the faceplate and the screws holding the device to the box, and gently pull the device out by the mounting straps.

There’s no need to dismantle the electrical connections. Slip the device through the extender. Push the extender into the existing box so that it rests on the wall, then push the device back into place. Use the screws that came with the extender to reattach the device to the box. Add the faceplate and turn on the power.

Safety Precautions

It only takes a tiny amount of electrical current to seriously injure or even kill a person, so it’s extremely important to follow safety precautions when working with electricity. Call a licensed electrician if you’d prefer that an expert take over at any time.

• Test the voltage tester. Ensure the non-contact voltage tester works by holding it to a known live circuit, like a plugged-in appliance or lamp cord. It should light up and beep. After finding and turning off your circuit, test the tester again to make sure it didn’t fail while you were using it.
• Test for power at each step. You may have more than one circuit in the box, which can only be accessed once you carefully pull out the device. Turn off all circuits for safety.
• Handle devices carefully. Pull out electrical devices by the mounting straps, not the wires or screw terminals. Use your hands, never pry with a tool.
• Look for signs of equipment malfunction, like scorch marks or a strange smell. Call an electrician.

Compliance with Building Codes and Regulations

When performing any electrical work, it’s important to follow your state and local electrical and building codes. Most state governments require conformance to the NEC, but different states enforce different versions of the code. For example, Texas and Minnesota have adopted the 2023 NEC rules, while New York and Pennsylvania currently use the 2020 code. Other states enforce these or previous versions.

In addition, states and municipalities may have their own electrical codes. Chicago is a good example of a place where the local electrical code rules. You’ve also got local building codes, which are separate from electrical codes but can overlap.

Contact your local electrical inspector to learn what’s required.

FAQs

Can I put a junction box anywhere?

No. Always consult your state and local codes, as well as the NEC, for specific requirements.

Is it illegal to bury a junction box in a wall?

You should not bury a junction box in a wall. Junction boxes, with few exceptions, must be accessible for maintenance and inspection. Your state and local governments set civil and/or criminal penalties for ignoring codes and safety requirements.

Sources

National Fire Protection Association: “NEC Enforcement”

The first time I encountered houseplant gnats was after I repotted a night-blooming jasmine. Because I had grown the plant from seed, I was particularly attached to it. But there were so many gnats around it, I could barely stand to get close.

Time to figure out how to get rid of plant gnats!

“Fungus gnats are a nuisance to people, landing in your tea and coffee and flying around in your face,” says The Houseplant Guru, Lisa Eldred Steinkopf. But there’s no need to panic. “They probably won’t kill a plant; though as numbers increase, they can weaken it as they feed on the roots and stems.”

My solution was to repot my jasmine using a fresh bag of potting mix. But I later learned there are a number of easier ways. If you’ve got a swarm in your home, here’s how to get rid of plant gnats.

What Are Houseplant Gnats?

Houseplant gnats, aka fungus gnats, are various species of small flying insects (and their larvae) that live in potted plants.

“They are tiny, but incredibly annoying for their size!” says Justin Hancock, a horticulturist at Costa Farms. “And because they have a relatively quick lifecycle, particularly in warm temperatures, it doesn’t take long for a small population to become noticeable.”

Where Do Gnats Come From?

Fungus gnat larvae live in soil, which means their eggs and larvae can enter your home when you buy new plants, repot them with new soil or bring potted plants inside that have been living outdoors. The gnats then emerge from the soil as flying adults.

“Unfortunately, it’s pretty common to bring them in from your local garden center,” says Hancock. “Any tear in the bag leaves an opening for gnats to lay eggs.”

What Are Gnats Attracted To?

Fungus gnats are attracted to moist potting soil, which is rich in organic matter like peat moss. Adults lay eggs in the mix, and when the larvae hatch they feed on naturally occurring fungi and other organic matter.

“The mix provides an ideal habitat for raising their young,” says Hancock. “Unfortunately the larvae may also feed on plant roots if the roots are weak or the potting mix doesn’t contain enough fungi.”

Do Gnats Bite?

No. Even though they seem to enjoy flying right around your face, adult gnats can’t bite you or the plant.

How Long Do Gnats Live?

Adults Iive for about a week, during which time they can lay a few hundred eggs. Those hatch into larvae in four to six days. The larvae then feed in the soil for another week or so, before becoming adults and starting the process all over again. Since they complete their lifecycles in less than three weeks, their numbers can multiply pretty quickly.

How to Tell You Have Gnats in Your Houseplants

You’ll see them. They look a lot like fruit flies or tiny mosquitoes. If you dig around in the top couple of inches of soil, you’ll probably also notice the larvae, which look like tiny white worms.

How to Prevent Houseplant Gnats

Since they thrive in moisture, let your plant soil dry out between waterings. Also, be vigilant not to bring them home. Before buying potting mix or plants, visually look for flying adults and use a magnifying glass to examine soil for larvae and eggs.

“If you see them flying around the garden center when you are buying your plant, you can be certain you will have them at home,” says Steinkopf. “Leave those plants there, and don’t buy plants that are waterlogged, which you shouldn’t buy anyway.”

How to Get Rid of Houseplant Gnats

There are a number of simple ways to get rid of plant gnats.

Water Less Frequently

Fungus gnat larvae live in the top few inches of potting mix, and they need that to be moist. So either water plants less often or water from the bottom, to make the top layer of soil uninhabitable.

“This works well for many plants, but may not be as appropriate for thirsty varieties like ferns, peace lily, Schismatoglottis, and Fittonia,” says Hancock.

Replace Soil

If you only have a few flies, you can probably get away with replacing the top few inches of your potting mix with gnat-free soil, says Steinkopf.

Hancock also suggests trying a soilless material, like LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate) or creating a barrier on top of the soil. “I’ve had great success adding an inch or so of sand to the top of the potting mix; it dries out too fast to sustain fungus gnat eggs,” he says.

Set Out Sticky Traps

Yellow or blue cards coated in adhesive attract gnats, which then stick to the trap. They are most effective on small populations, or to help gauge how large yours is and whether it’s increasing or decreasing.

“Similarly, add a mix of apple cider vinegar, sugar, and a couple of drops of dish soap to a ramekin,” says Hancock. “Some of the gnats will fly into the mixture, but the dish soap creates a layer on the surface that prevents them from flying out.”

Apply Natural Insecticides

You can add a few products to your plant watering routine to help control gnats. Always read and abide by warnings and directions on the label.

• Mosquito-control products containing the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (aka Bti) kill gnat larvae. Steinkopf recommends the product Mosquito Bits.
• Nearly microscopic organisms called S. feltiae nematodes eat gnat larvae.
• Rove beetles also eat gnat larvae. “But for plant parents who don’t like the idea of any insects in their plants—even if they’re the good guys—then this isn’t the best solution for them,” says Hancock.

FAQ

Are fungus gnats harmful to plants?

Rarely. But if your potting mix doesn’t have enough fungi, the larvae might feed on plant roots, which can eventually weaken plants if their numbers are large enough.

What’s the easiest way to prevent or get rid of houseplant gnats?

Keep your potting mix a bit drier. “Always water your plants thoroughly, but then allow them to dry down before watering again,” says Steinkopf.

About the Experts

Justin Hancock is a horticulturist at Costa Farms, the world’s largest houseplant grower. He has more than 25 years of experience in the horticulture industry as a garden editor and retail garden center operator.

Lisa Eldred Steinkopf founded The Houseplant Guru, a website devoted to teaching people how to care for their plants. She’s also a writer, lecturer and author of Houseplants: The Complete Guide; Grow in The Dark; Creative Houseplant Projects; and Bloom.

Buying light bulbs today can be confusing. Gone are the days when your only decision was between a 100-watt and a 60-watt incandescent. Instead, there are all kinds of lighting options at the home improvement or hardware store, from vibrant colors and designer shapes to smart bulbs you control from your phone. I’m a licensed electrician, and I get confused by the options sometimes even though I’ve installed thousands of lights.

If you regularly buy incandescents, you’ve probably noticed they haven’t been on the shelf for a while. You may even have heard that they’re being squeezed out in favor of light-emitting diode (LED) technology. It’s true. But even as old tech makes way for new, you may still be curious about the differences between them.

We talked to three lighting experts with decades of experience with both lighting types. Here’s what you need to know.

What Is Incandescent Lighting?

Incandescent lights produce light by generating heat. Terry McGowan, director of engineering at the American Lighting Association, says that in the early days of electric lighting, the incandescent light was colloquially called a “hot wire in a bottle”. Things have mostly stayed the same since then. There’s a glass globe, and inside of that is a tiny wire called a filament. Turning on the light forces electricity through the filament, which heats up and glows brightly.

How Incandescent Lighting Works

Incandescent lighting works because it’s harder for electricity to flow through the filament than your home’s electrical wires. When you flip the switch and the electrical current reaches the bulb, the filament acts like a big brake, slowing (aka resisting) the current. This energy needs somewhere to go, so it turns into heat (and light). If you’ve ever looked inside a pop-up toaster to see the red-hot wires browning your toast, it’s the same concept.

Pros and Cons of Incandescent Lighting

Incandescent lighting gives off a warm, comforting light that people love. Incandescent bulbs are cheap to produce… or they used to be, at least. Incandescent light bulbs don’t meet current federal efficiency standards, so as of August 2023, they’re no longer sold in the U.S. except in special-use applications, such as oven lights. (McGowan says that’s because incandescents withstand heat better than other lights.)

Incandescents are relatively short-lived compared to other lights, and George Yianni, chief technology officer at Philips Hue Lighting, says they lose a lot of heat. Only 5–10% of their energy use is actually converted into light. Yianni says the typical lifespan is between 750 and 2,000 hours. So, if you factor in the amount of energy needed to make up for the heat loss and the number of replacement bulbs you’ll have to buy, they cost more in the long run.

What Is LED Lighting?

Light-emitting diodes (LED) are little chips of metal and metal alloys painted with a substance that glows when electricity moves through the diodes. “It’s an entirely different way of creating light, unlike anything else we have,” according to Dara Greaney, founder of LED Light Expert. There’s no filament and almost no heat: “90% of the energy LEDs use is converted into light,” Greaney says.

How LED Lighting Works

The tiny chips that make up an LED light can be attached directly to the light fixture housing, so there’s no need for a delicate glass globe or a glowing filament. “When the electricity flows, light is emitted directly from the surface of the LED,” McGowan says. The coating on the LED, called a phosphor, can be manipulated to produce white light or colors by mixing phosphors that produce red, green or blue.

Pros and Cons of LED Lighting

The biggest pro is energy efficiency. LEDs give off more light (measured in lumens) per unit of energy (measured in watts) than any other available lighting type. “LED light sources with good color characteristics are now commonly rated for 120-150 lumens/watt,” McGowan says. That’s ten times more than an incandescent.

Another pro? “LED lights can be smart, allowing you further customization and energy efficiency,” Yianni says. Yianni points to how dimming a smart LED bulb to 70% brightness cuts their already low energy use by 51%. Setting them to “colors other than white can not only set the mood but also reduce their energy consumption by up to 79%,” Yianni says.

And while early LED technology was costly and faced complaints of stark, sterile ugliness, Greaney says costs have come way down. Today’s LEDs offer warmth and multiple color options. One con is that LED light is highly directional, but Greaney says a frosted cover will diffuse the light naturally.

What’s the Difference Between Incandescent and LED Lighting?

They both produce light, but the similarities mostly end there. Here’s how they stack up head to head:

• Energy efficiency: LEDs produce ten times more light per watt of energy than incandescents.
• Lifespan: According to Yianni, LEDs last “25,000 to 50,000 hours compared to the 750 to 2,000 hours of incandescent bulbs.”
• Versatility: The flexibility and durability of LEDs mean they work across many applications, including general lighting, signage, flashlights, Christmas lights and electronics. Still, incandescent lights are better for specific uses like ovens and bug lights.
• Color rendering: This is where incandescents shine. They’re not very efficient, but “colors look great,” Greaney says. LEDs are catching up, though, “so this benefit is going away.”

Which Is Better, Incandescent or LED Lighting?

LED lighting is better in almost every use case. Incandescent lighting is beloved due to its warmth and because it’s been a staple of our lives for generations. But LED lighting has come a long way from the cold, sterile, “blue” light of early iterations, Greaney says. Look on the label for a high Color Rendering Index and a warm temperature and you’ll get a great light.

But the biggest reason to love LEDs? Their energy efficiency and long life. More than ten times the efficiency as incandescents, LEDs and their dizzying array of colors and styles are the clear winner.

About the Experts

Terry McGowan is the director of engineering at the American Lighting Association. McGowan previously worked at GE Lighting, runs his own lighting design and consulting business and is involved with the International Dark Sky Association and the American Lighting Bureau.

George Yianni is the chief technology officer at Philips Hue, where he developed the smart Hue lighting system. Previously, Yianni worked as a project manager and architect for Phillips Lighting, focusing on lighting controls and connectivity.

Dara Greaney is the CEO and founder of LED Light Expert, an e-commerce lighting retailer. His expertise includes lighting design and LED technology, with a commitment toward sustainability and energy efficiency.

My first encounter with a broken drain stopper occurred the day I bought my own home. Ready to do some cleaning, I ran the bathroom sink and lifted the stopper rod. It immediately broke free and flew into the air, spraying rusty water across the mirror. Staring at my reflection, now crisscrossed with red-tinged water and looking like a horror-movie outtake, I could only wonder, “What have I gotten myself into?”

Luckily, I’m here to tell you I survived, and you will too. Fixing a pop-up assembly like this is not only doable, but it’s also a great, low-stakes way to learn a little bit about your home’s plumbing.

I consulted with a pair of master plumbers, Stephen Venturelli and Beau Means, about the most common types of bathroom sink stoppers and how to repair or replace them.

If you have a drain stopper that needs attention, there’s no need to worry. As Venturelli says, “The issues that pop up (pun intended) with a drain stopper are not a major repair and typically can be replaced at a minimal cost.”

Pop-up Assembly Stoppers

The most common type of sink stopper is called a pop-up drain assembly. This design is easily identified; simply look for a pull rod on the back of the faucet. Beneath the countertop, that rod connects to another, horizontal rod that terminates in a ball joint in the drain tailpiece. The ball joint is secured in place, but still loose enough to serve as a pivot point.

The bottom of the drain stopper slides into the drain tailpiece, where it connects to the end of the pivot rod’s ball joint. Since the stopper is connected to the pivot rod, which is connected to the faucet rod, raising the faucet rod adjusts the stopper, allowing it to seal or open the drain.

That may sound complex, but the mechanics are fairly easy to understand when you see it in person. The trick with pop-ups is understanding that all the real work is done under the sink.

“Lavatory pop-ups come apart from the tailpiece,” says Beau Means. “Remove the nut from the side of the tailpiece and pull the pop-up free from the lever assembly that connects to the pull-rod and protrudes from the top of the lavatory faucet.”

How to Remove and Fix Pop-up Assembly Stoppers

Stephen Venturelli suggests a simple fix if there’s a drip or leak at the ball joint: using pliers to tighten up the nut connecting the assembly. It’s also possible to tighten or adjust the points where the rods connect to each other or the stopper.

But if any of those parts is damaged, Venturelli recommends purchasing a completely new assembly rather than trying to replace individual rods, clips or connecting parts. “The cost and ease of installation make it cost and time-efficient,” he says.

The worst-case scenario is that the entire pop-up has rusted. In that case, says Venturelli, “You will need to cut out the existing pop-up with a metal blade power/manual hacksaw. Clean up all surfaces before installing [the] new strainer and gaskets. Use channel lock style pliers to tighten the nut and squeeze gaskets tight to ensure no leaks. Connect to existing trap and again tighten nuts with pliers.”

Lift and Turn Stoppers

Lift and turn stoppers don’t have an assembly beneath the counter. Instead, they work by incorporating a metal ridge inside the drain flange. Raising the stopper and giving it a partial turn rests the stopper stem on that ridge, where it acts as a sort of shelf, holding the stopper up and allowing water drain freely.

How to Remove and Fix Lift and Turn Stoppers

According to Venturelli, “All these assemblies have very easy installation instructions which I believe a novice handy person can accomplish.”

You can typically remedy minor leaks at the drain washer by simply tightening the nut on the underside of the sink. If the stopper stem has broken and won’t stay in place, you must install a new drain stopper. To do that, you’ll fully loosen the nut beneath the sink, and remove the drain stopper, flange, and tail. Install the new tailpiece and drain flange, then tighten everything back together.

Flip Top Stoppers

This design uses a circular inset disc on the stopper top. Hinged in the center, it functions like a butterfly valve on a carburetor, rotating to a 90-degree angle, allowing water to flow through.

How to Remove and Fix Flip Top Stoppers

Flip top stoppers develop issues when the gasket that helps create a seal wears out, or when the hinge is damaged in some way (often by a dropped object). In both instances, the easiest solution is usually to replace the entire assembly.

Replacing a flip top stopper is similar to repairing a lift and turn-style stopper. Working from beneath, loosen the nut, then remove the drain stopper, flange, and tailpiece. Install the new tailpiece and flange, and tighten until leak-free.

About the Experts

Beau Means is a master plumber with nearly 35 years of experience. Formerly the chief plumbing inspector for Wichita/Sedgwick County, Means is general manager of Benjamin Franklin Plumbing in Wichita, Kansas and chairman of the local plumbing board.

Stephen Venturelli has been a licensed master plumber in Massachusetts for 43 years and is currently the plumbing instructor for At Leisure Contractor Licensing.