Most layout, assembly and finishing jobs in this shop happen on a 4 x 6-ft. rolling worktable. Below-table storage is impressive — drawers loaded with drills, routers and sanders pull out from one long side, and around the other three sides, essential tools are stowed in easy reach on shelves and racks. The table is a hefty beast, designed to take a pounding, yet it glides smoothly around the shop on casters to bring it to more convenient assembly spots or get it out of the way for those really big assembly jobs that are done on the floor. A bit too extravagant of a work table? Try a super simple workbench that will cost less than $100.
Euro-Hinge Drilling Jig
This homemade drill jig is eye-catching because it can drill holes for Euro-style hinges.
The jig is made from two short boards screwed together with a guide hole drilled in one board. Both sides of the jig are labeled “end” with an arrow pointing to the end of the door. Clamp the jig flush to the door side with the arrow end flush with the end of the door. Then drill the hole, flip over the jig and clamp it to the other end of the door. The “end” arrow automatically goes in the right direction.
1-in. Stop Block for Multiple Cutoffs
To get furniture-grade crosscuts, you have to use a table saw. When crosscutting a whole pile of short pieces to the same length, he clamps a specially dedicated block of wood to the table saw fence. It’s an old standard trick, but the difference is that his block is laminated for easy sliding, and more important, it’s exactly 1 in. thick. Clamp the block on the fence and adjust the table saw fence gauge to the desired length, plus 1 in., and saw the pieces. The 1-in. thickness eliminates any head-scratching and mistakes from using any old scrap block. For safety, position the block so the workpiece getting cut loses contact with the block before the cut begins. That all but eliminates any chance of kickback. Prevent kickback and serious injury by following simple safety guidelines.