Glue-Go-Round Glue Caddy
Here are four good reasons to build this glue caddy for your shop. First, no more hunting for the right type of glue; they’ll all be right at your fingertips. Second, you can store the containers upside down. That keeps the glue near the spout—no more shaking down half-filled bottles. Third, upside-down storage helps polyurethane glues last longer without hardening because it keeps the air out. Last, the caddy is so doggone handsome.
Here’s how to make yours:
First, arrange all your glue bottles in a circle with 1-in. spacing between the bottles. Add 2 in. to the circle diameter and cut out two 3/4-in. plywood discs. Drill 7/8-in. holes in the center of each one. Measure the various bottle diameters and drill storage holes around the top disc a smidgen larger than the bottles. Glue the discs on a 12-in.-long, 7/8-in. dowel, with a 5-in. space between the discs.
Add a knob of your choice, load up your glue, and you’ve got an instant grip on every type of sticky problem that comes your way. Our thanks to Paul Gentry for rounding up this great tip.
Dread using a hole saw? The friction heats up the blade to the point where it dulls the blade, burns the wood and actually heat-bonds the plug inside the hole saw.
Today, thanks to John Baker’s great tip, a cooler head prevails. Before sawing the hole, run the saw lightly on the wood to scribe the hole’s circumference, then drill two 3/8- in. holes just inside the circle. As you saw, sawdust falls through the holes rather than binding, clogging and burning against the cutting teeth. The saw runs cooler and cuts faster, and the sawn plug pulls out much easier. P.S. If you saw the hole until the pilot bit just breaks through the wood, then flip the board over and saw from the other side, the plug will practically fall out on its own. Check out another hole saw tip here.
How to Build a Classic Sawhorse
Here’s a classic sawhorse that’ll take a ton of punishment with nary a wobble. The key is a boxlike construction where the legs join with the top board. For each one you make, you need:
- 1 42-in. long 2×6 for the top board
- 4 28-in. long 1×8 boards for the legs
- 4 8-3/4 in. x 7-in. x 3/4-in. thick boards for the gussets
- 2-in. drywall screws
Cut the gussets with 14-degree angled sides. Cut leg notches on the top board 6 in. from the ends and with 14-degree angled sides so the legs will cant outward when screwed on. Cut 14-degree angles on both ends of the legs with your circular saw’s table set at 14 degrees. Cut the taper along the inside edge of the legs, and loosely screw the legs in the notches. Now, screw and glue the gussets to the edges of the legs. Because you haven’t tightened the legs in the notches, they’re easy to line up with the gussets. After attaching the gussets, tighten the screws that hold the legs to the top board, and you’re done.
Thanks to reader Ernie Brown for this thoroughbred tip.