Ever scratched your head over how to position clamps on a project that requires clamping from all four sides? This gluing pedestal makes the job a breeze. Buy a 12-in. pipe nipple with pipe flanges on both ends and screw it to a couple of scraps of 3/4-in. plywood. Cut the pedestal top an inch or so bigger than the project to make clamping easier. Now, with the base of the pedestal clamped on your workbench, you can crank on the clamps from every angle; up, down and sideways. (Be sure to cover the top with plastic sheeting or wax paper, or the top will become a permanent part of the project.) Thanks to Travis Larson for this high-flying tip.
Glue-Go-Round Glue Caddy
Here are four good reasons to build this glue caddy for your shop. First, no more hunting for the right type of glue; they’ll all be right at your fingertips. Second, you can store the containers upside down. That keeps the glue near the spout—no more shaking down half-filled bottles. Third, upside-down storage helps polyurethane glues last longer without hardening because it keeps the air out. Last, the caddy is so doggone handsome.
Here’s how to make yours:
First, arrange all your glue bottles in a circle with 1-in. spacing between the bottles. Add 2 in. to the circle diameter and cut out two 3/4-in. plywood discs. Drill 7/8-in. holes in the center of each one. Measure the various bottle diameters and drill storage holes around the top disc a smidgen larger than the bottles. Glue the discs on a 12-in.-long, 7/8-in. dowel, with a 5-in. space between the discs.
Add a knob of your choice, load up your glue, and you’ve got an instant grip on every type of sticky problem that comes your way. Our thanks to Paul Gentry for rounding up this great tip.
Dread using a hole saw? The friction heats up the blade to the point where it dulls the blade, burns the wood and actually heat-bonds the plug inside the hole saw.
Today, thanks to John Baker’s great tip, a cooler head prevails. Before sawing the hole, run the saw lightly on the wood to scribe the hole’s circumference, then drill two 3/8- in. holes just inside the circle. As you saw, sawdust falls through the holes rather than binding, clogging and burning against the cutting teeth. The saw runs cooler and cuts faster, and the sawn plug pulls out much easier. P.S. If you saw the hole until the pilot bit just breaks through the wood, then flip the board over and saw from the other side, the plug will practically fall out on its own. Check out another hole saw tip here.