- Miter saw
- #212 screw eyes
- 1-in. screws
- 1/4-in. plywood
- 1/4x2x12” maple
- 1/4x2x12” walnut
- 1x4 pine
- 3/4-in. screws
- Wood glue
Project step-by-step (6)
Angle the miter saw for a compound bevel
Rotate the miter saw’s base to 15-degrees. Tilt the blade to 15-degrees in the same direction as the base. For example, I rotated the base handle to the right and tilted the blade to the right.
Create a zero-clearance miter saw fence
Fasten a 1×4 board to a piece of 1/4-in. plywood with glue and 1-in. screws. Attach the assembly to the miter saw fence with 3/4-in. screws. Cut a kerf in the fence. This creates a tool that allows perfect alignment and will keep your parts from being pulled into the blade and destroyed.
Mark and cut the compound bevels
Make a mark 1/2-in. from one end of the spacer board. Align the mark with the fence’s kerf and make the compound bevel cut. Measure 1/2-in. from the short edge of the board. Align the mark with the kerf and mark a line on the fence where the offcut piece ends. Make the second cut, flip the board edge-over-edge and line up the end with the mark on the fence. Repeat the process until the all the spacers (B) and key fobs (C) are cut.
Glue the spacers
Lay out the spacers and fobs so that the grain lines up like one continuous piece. Spread glue onto the backs of the spacers (B). Making sure that the compound bevels are facing the correct way to hold the fobs in place, clamp the spacers (B) in place with painter’s tape, using the fobs (C) as for perfect alignment.
Cut to a finished length
Return your miter saw to 90-degrees. Mark a line 1/2-in. from the long corner of the last key fob (C) and cut the assembly to length.
Install the eye screws
In the narrow ends of the fobs, punch starting points using an awl, and then drill pilot holes for eye screws. Sand and finish the holder assembly and fobs, then install in the eye screws.