It may look complicated, but this bookcase is mostly a collection of plywood boxes dressed up with solid wood: drawer boxes, cabinet boxes…even the columns are nothing more than tall, skinny boxes with decorative faces. The bridges, too, are just shallow boxes with arched fronts. If you can build boxes, you can build this bookcase.
All of the components are separate units, so you can easily disassemble the whole bookcase in a few minutes— that’s great for finishing, even better for moving the bookcase into the house.
Six types of secret compartments are shown here. If you use each available space for the secret compartments then you’ll have a total of ten!
Column CompartmentFamily Handyman
The column face is held in place by magnets. Give it a hard tug for instant access. Build just one column this way—or all four.
Overhead Hiding PlaceFamily Handyman
Each of the top’s three lift-off panels covers a shallow box. You’ll need a ladder to reach them, so they’re best for long-term storage.
Drawer NookFamily Handyman
A shortened drawer box leaves space behind the drawer. Add a removable panel to hide a concealed cubby.
Hidden HoleFamily Handyman
Remove the bottom drawer and lift off the panel to reveal the hiding place.
False-Bottom DrawerFamily Handyman
Flip the drawer over, remove a few screws and slide out the bottom panel.
Hang-up BoxFamily Handyman
The cabinet false rail hides a drop-down box that’s supported by magnets.
Step 1a: Build Boxes out of Plywood
Start with the column box sides (A and B). Rough-cut two sheets of plywood to 80-1/4 in. with a circular saw. Then trim them to their final length of 80 in. using a straightedge and a router fitted with a flush-trim bit. This will give you a perfect edge. Mark the dado locations on the plywood and cut them (Photo above). Note: You’ll have to add your own bearing to the plywood bit.
Step 1b: Cut Four Dadoes in One PassFamily Handyman
Repeat the procedure for the cabinet sides (C), cutting the plywood to 30-in. lengths first. You can get the four sides for the door cabinets from a single width of plywood. Note: The bottom dado on the drawer cabinet is lower than on the door cabinets in order to create the hidden compartment below the lower drawer. With the column and cabinet sides cut and machined, the next step is to lay out and drill the adjustable shelf holes.
Cut the shelf parts for the columns (S and T) and cabinets (F and G) and cut the dadoes and rabbets as shown. Hold off on the cabinet tops (D and E). You want to assemble the cabinet first to finalize the top dimensions. Dry-fit all the parts to make sure everything goes together right. I pre-finished the interior parts of the door cabinets before assembly. Tape off the dadoes to keep them free of stain and varnish.
Make sure the cabinets are square before you drive any screws. The drawer cabinet is assembled from the inside out, starting with the shelves and dividers. With the cabinets assembled, you can determine the final measurements for the tops and the upper compartment bottoms (D and E). You’ll likely have to adjust the sizes given in the Cutting List. Tiny differences in plywood thickness and dado depth can add up to a cabinet that’s a little narrower or wider than the listed dimensions. It’s essential that the tops fit perfectly flush to the cabinet sides. Note: The bridge bottoms (D and E) are the same size as the cabinet tops and should be cut at the same time. With the tops cut to final sizes, lay out and cut the dadoes on the underside of the drawer cabinet top.
Step 2: Assemble the Cabinets and Columns
Assemble the cabinets and columns with glue and screws (photo above). Glue and clamp the tops to the cabinets. Screws and a little glue are fine for most of the assembly; screw heads will be covered up later. But use clamps rather than screws on the outer sides of both end columns.
Step 3: Add the Compartments
OK, seven boxes down; there are just three to go. Time to build the bridge boxes that do double duty as secret compartments.
It’s critical to build the bridge boxes so they’re exactly the same width and length as the cabinet tops below. Fortunately, that’s easy to do since the cabinet tops and the compartment bottoms are identical. Simply add the sides (P, Q and R) to the compartment bot- toms. Double-check your work by setting the bridge boxes on top of the assembled cabinets. They should line up perfectly with the cabinet tops.
To build the secret compartment below the bottom drawer, simply cut and rout the compartment sides (HHH) and install them at the bottom of the drawer cabinet with screws. Cut the lid to the compartment (H) and drill a 1-in. finger hole. Ease the edges of the hole with a 1/8-in. round-over bit.
To build the compartments behind the middle drawers: Cut the false backs (FF) and spacers (GGG). Drill a pair of holes for the rare earth magnets toward the end and on the edge of each spacer. Secure the magnets with epoxy. Install the spacers at the back of the cabinet (one reason to leave the cabinet backs off for now). Epoxy four washers on the back of the false back where the magnets make contact. Add a finger hole and you’ve got two more hiding places.
Cut the two false rails (EEE) that hide the drop-down boxes in the door cabinets and glue the drop-down box lip (FFF) centered on the lower edge on the back. Position the false fronts in the cabinet to act as a stop for the doors (don’t forget to consider the thickness of a felt or cork bumper). Fasten with glue and screws.
Build the drop-down boxes (U, V, JJ) from scrap plywood. Embed two rare earth magnets in the top of the back edge. After the epoxy has set, grab some leftover paint and goop up the magnet faces. Set the box in place and push up on the back edge to mark the corresponding holes in the underside of the top. Drill and epoxy in the magnets under the top. Cut and fit the backs for the columns and the cabinets. Pre-finish the backs of the two door cabinets before installing them.
To complete the cabinets, cut and fit the hardwood trim (DDD) for the cabinets. Use glue and a brad nailer to fasten the trim. Sand the hardwood flush and smooth.
Step 4: Complete the Columns
Cut the column backers (MM), columns (NN) and column bases (PP). Leave the columns (NN) a little long. Machine the crown (LL); see Figure B above. Assemble the crowns with glue (Photo above). Glue and your fingers are the best way to assemble the small parts of the column crowns. Hold them together for a few seconds, then leave them undisturbed while the glue sets. Any wood glue will work, but molding glue bonds faster and won’t run all over the place. Next, machine the stock for the crown cap (QQ) and base (RR) and cut to size. You’ll want to sand the individual parts to 180-grit before assembly.
Step 5: Set the Column Blocks
Lay out all the column face parts on the column backer. Adjust the final length of the column so all the parts fit per-fectly on the backer. Screw the columns and bases to the backer through the back of the column backers. Nail and glue the crown base to the top of the column. Attach the crown with screws from behind and nail the cap in place. You should have four very nice- looking column faces that are ready to mount on the column boxes (Photo above).
Now add the magnets. Drill a series of holes for 1/2-in. magnets in the edge of the column box. It’s best to do this on a drill press with a Forstner bit so the holes are flat and perpendicular, allowing the magnets to lie perfectly flush. I spaced four magnets along each edge of the column box and one in the middle of each shelf for a total of 11 magnets. Epoxy the magnets into their holes. Use the paint trick mentioned earlier to mark the location for the magnets in the column backer. Set the column on the box and the paint will leave marks where the other magnets go. Drill magnet holes and epoxy in the magnets, taking care to orient the magnets correctly so they grab the magnets in the column boxes and don’t repel them.
If you don’t want a secret compartment in a column, simply glue the columns to the column boxes. Position the columns so they overhang the edges of the boxes by 1/4 in. on the sides. Secure with a few brad nails and clamp.
Step 6: Assemble the Whole Thing
When the columns are complete, join them to the cabinets (Photo above). Screw through the cabinet boxes into the columns. To install each bridge, clamp it in place and then add screws. Now stand back and admire your work. Then get back to work and install the backs that cover the space between the columns above the cabinets.
Step 7: Make Perfect-Fitting Top Panels
I went all out on the top and made it out of glued- up 1-1/4-in. solid oak (KK). First, glue up the boards to make one solid top. To create tight-fitting access panels with an uninterrupted grain pattern, start with a glued-up blank. Make the blank about an inch oversize in length and 1/2-in. extra in width.
Clamp up the top using the access panels as spacers between the blocks. Old business cards work great as spacers around the access panels. Be careful not to glue the panels in place.
Next, rip a 2-in. strip off the back edge and a 4-1/4-in. strip off the front and set them aside. Take the middle section and cross- cut the panels and blocks in sequence (see construction drawings figure b). Reassemble the top using the panel cutouts as spacers (Photo above).
Step 8: After the Glue has Set
After the glue has set, you can remove the panels and trim the edges for a clean fit. The result is a top with access panels that fit perfectly without a lot of fussy fitting. The grain pattern is uninterrupted, which helps keep the panel visibility low.
You could build up 3/4-in. and 1/2-in. plywood to make the top. It’s a little more work, but it will save you some money. To get the 10-ft. length out of 8-ft. plywood, you need to stagger the joints between the 3/4-in. plywood and the 1/2-in. plywood. Cut one length of each to 6 ft. and the other to 4 ft. and butt- joint them end-to-end with biscuits and glue. Glue the 1/2-in. plywood to the 3/4-in. plywood with the butt joints staggered so the 4-ft. length of 1/2-in. falls under the 6-ft. length of 3/4-in plywood. Use screws to clamp the two pieces together, taking care not to leave any screw heads exposed where the top overhangs the cabinets (use clamps in these areas). Rip and cut the access panels in the same manner as with the hardwood top, then add hardwood trim to cover the plywood edges.
Step 9: Build the Drawers and Doors
Cut the door parts (HH, ZZ, AAA and BBB) and assemble with biscuits. Plywood works fine for the panels, although I think you get a better look with real hardwood panels. The drawers are put together with simple rabbet joints. Assemble the drawers and doors with glue and a brad nailer. I recommend reinforcing the drawer joints with a few trim head screws. The screws guarantee the joints won’t pull apart, and the trim heads aren’t much bigger than a finish nail hole. The Cutting List for the doors and drawers will give you an exact fit in a perfectly executed cabinet. Measure the openings and adjust your cuts accordingly. Shoot for an exact fit; then plane the door edges for a final fit.
The bottom drawer has a false bottom that hides the last of our secret compartments. However, there’s nothing special about the construction of this drawer other than the fixed false bottom and the extra grooves cut to house it.
The drawer bottoms are sized to stick out past the back of each drawer by 1/4 in. The protruding bottom acts as a drawer stop against the back of the cabinet. This also allows you to easily fine-tune the fit. Simply plane the plywood edge to adjust how far back the drawer sits in the cabinet.
Step 9: Finish
Now, take the bookcase apart. Finish-sand everything to 180 grit. I used a Mission Oak stain (see the Buyer’s Guide) and topcoated with a wipe-on gel varnish. Additionally, there is no need to finish the areas that cover each other such as the outsides of the lower cabinets and the lower parts of the columns.
Enjoy your bookcase and try not to tell everyone about the secret compartments. It’s our little secret.