Sleigh Your Holiday Decor with These DIY Stained Glass Christmas Ornaments

Get a template

A quick internet search will provide you with numerous options to choose from when selecting a template for your stained glass projects. I am sharing my Christmas tree template with you below. My design is made up of a bunch of straight lines, which are easier to cut than curved ones. Use a ruler and pen or pencil to sketch it out on paper.

Cut out the glass pieces

Lay your glass over your template and use a black marker to draw the design onto your glass. If you are using textured glass, it’ll have one smoother side than the other. Draw it on the smooth side.

Use an oiled glass cutting tool to cut the glass design into pieces. Think about angles, where they join and how to best cut them away from each other. You can use a ruler to guide straight lines with both your marker and cutting tool.

As you score your lines, listen for a consistent sound of glass cracking. Once each cut is scored, snap it off using running pliers. Take your time and remember you can always cut another piece if something doesn’t work out. Keep track of pieces by laying them on the template as you cut if you are using more than one color.

TIP: Save cut-offs! In stained glass, even small pieces will be valuable in the future.

Clean up the edges

Glass doesn’t always cut perfectly. Use a glass grinder (or silicone carbide sandpaper with a few drops of water for lubrication) to smooth out any chipped or uneven edges of the cut glass. You want the copper foil to lie flat along the edge of each glass piece. If any of the edges are chipped or angled, they are more likely to cut through the foil and can be dangerous to handle. Clean and dry the sanded pieces before moving on.

Wrap the edges with foil

Wrap each cut glass piece with 7/32-inch copper foil, ensuring the foil is centered over the edges of the glass. Burnish the edges with a fiddler/burnisher to ensure the copper foil has good adhesion all the way around. If the copper foil has overlapped, making the foil lines messy, cut away excess with a utility knife. Smooth the foil with a foil crimper to make sure the edges and foldover lay flat.

Tack solder the ornament together

To ensure all pieces of glass are held in place as you solder, add a small solder tack where they meet. To remove oxidation and create a clean surface for soldering, always use soldering flux. Flux also helps the solder flow as it heats up, resulting in a more aesthetically pleasing solder bead. Put a small tack on both sides of the ornament before you proceed. Test the temperature of your soldering gun for optimal application. 400- to 500-degrees is perfect for quick tacks.

“Tin” the seams

To ensure a good solder bead at each seam, “tin” the copper foil with a very thin layer of solder applied to both sides of the ornament. At this point, don’t worry about making it pretty. This is about preparing the copper foil to accept a thicker bead of solder. Always use flux in between soldering passes. You can never overdo flux. As with tacking, the temperature of your soldering iron should be 400 – 500 degrees when “tinning”.

Solder the ornament

With all the Copper Foil now “tinned” or covered in a thin layer of solder, build up a thicker bead on each seam of your ornament. Focus on soldering the seams on the two flat, face sides of your ornament. Then, solder all the outer edges once you are satisfied with the front and back faces. If you don’t like a particular bead, you can feel free to flux and go back over it again. The secret to the final bead is a combination of speed and temperature. I recommend raising the heat to 600 at this point. Allow the solder to pool as you are pulling it forward with the soldering gun. Practice makes perfect, and soldering is one of those things most will never do well the first time.

To easily handle a hot piece of glass and solder, use a piece of scrap wood and small clamps to hold it in place as you work on the outer edges.

Solder hanging wire to the top

To create a way to hang the ornament, use pre-tinned wire to make it easier to solder right onto the top of the ornament. Use needle-nose pliers to create a loop, and always use flux. Little wires can be finicky; be patient. It may take more than one try to get it in the right place.

Clean the ornament

To deactivate the flux and neutralize the acidity, rinse the finished stained glass Christmas ornaments with a water and baking soda solution. Wipe dry before applying a patina.

Apply a copper patina

Apply copper patina solution with a small artist’s brush to all soldered surfaces. Solder patina also comes in black.

FAQ

Is making stained glass an expensive hobby?

It can be, but doesn’t have to be. As with most hobbies, there is an initial investment to get started. With the exception of getting a wet glass grinder, getting started in small stained-glass projects is relatively inexpensive.

Should you wear a mask when making stained glass?

When working on stained glass projects, it is essential to wear a respiratory mask when soldering to prevent inhaling fumes.

Can I clean stained glass with Windex?

Windex contains ammonia, which will be harmful to your stained glass. Use a non-ammonia glass cleaner or simply use soap and water to safely clean your stained glass.