Want to learn how to turn castoff shipping pallets into a stunning reclaimed wood headboard? Here's how we did it!
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Time
Multiple Days
Complexity
Advanced
Cost
$100 - $150
Introduction
Want to learn how to turn old shipping pallets into a stunning reclaimed wood headboard? Keep reading for a detailed step-by-step guide.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Interested in reclaimed wood projects? Shipping pallets can be a great source of material. With five billion of them circling the globe, the cost of wood needn’t be an obstacle for aspiring woodworkers.
Although most pallets aren’t up for grabs, chances are local businesses in your area have some they’d like to dispose of, for free or a reasonable price. Just be sure to ask permission before stocking up.
Before you start asking around for any old pallet, it’s important to know which ones are actually useable. There are a few thing to know.
The USDA requires that all pallets, and other wood packaging, entering the United States be treated to prevent invasive pests and pathogens. Many pallets are heat treated, but some are treated with methyl bromide, a toxic chemical. Pallets should be marked, telling you what they’ve been treated with. Anything with an “HT” on it means that it’s been heat treated. Anything with an “MB” on it means that it was treated with methyl bromide, and you should avoid it.
Sometime pallets are made from low quality wood, and can be infested with bugs, rot, mold and mildew. Don’t use these.
Pallets often break during use, leaving sharp slivers of wood that can hurt you. We recommend wearing tough leather gloves when handling pallets.
Almost all pallets come with rusty nails protruding somewhere. Take extra care to avoid cutting yourself on these.
Pallets are too large to fit in the trunks of most cars, so you’ll probably need to a pickup truck for transport. Or ask someone to deliver the pallets to your home.
If you’re eager to try your hand at turning scrap wood into something beautiful, keep reading. I’ll guide you through all the steps of turning ugly shipping pallets into a beautiful, refined reclaimed wood headboard.
Tools Required
4-foot yard stick or other straightedge
Belt sander
Caulking gun
Compound miter saw
Drill and drill bit index
Edge sander
Eye and hearing protection
Half-sheet sander
Impact driver
Jig Saw
Jointer
Moisture meter
Paint brush
Pencil
Quarter-sheet palm sander
Shop vacuum
Speed square
Square 23-gauge pin nailer
Table saw
Tape measure
Three parallel-jaw clamps
Three quick-grip clamps
Track saw
Materials Required
1-quart can of latex paint (of your preferred color)
2-1/2-inch brass screws
At least three hardwood shipping pallets
Brass cup washers
Five 2-inch deck screws
One sheet of 3/4-inch plywood
Six tubes of tintable latex caulk
Two 2x4 scraps 17 and 42 inches long
Two lengths 1/8-inch-thick spacer material 18 and 36 inches long
Use your table saw to remove a rectangular notch of wood from each 2- by 2-1/2-in.-wide strip. Make the notch 1- by 1-1/4-inches.
Make the legs the right length to boost the bottom of your headboard to the top of the mattress on your bed of choice.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
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Step 3
Plane and rip cut the face boards
Gather all the boards from your dismantled pallets.
With a thickness planer, reduce them to 5/8-in. thick.
Rip cut the boards into 1-1/8-in.-wide strips with your table saw.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Step 4
Make the plywood headboard backing
Bring your sheet of 3/4-in.-thick sheathing-grade plywood into your shop.
With a pencil and long yardstick, mark a rectangle 42- by 34-in. on the plywood. These dimensions are for a single bed. If you’re building a headboard for a larger bed, cut your plywood accordingly.
Cut out the rectangle using a table saw.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Step 5
Prepare the face boards
With a tape measure, straightedge and pencil, mark two lines on the plywood headboard backing — one dividing it in two horizontally, and one vertically.
Use an impact driver and 2-in. deck screws to fasten two scrap 2x4s to the plywood along the lines you’ve drawn.
Set your compound miter saw to cut 45-degree miters.
Cut one end of each 1-1/2-in. board to 45 degrees.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Step 6
Install the face boards
Butt the 45-degree angled end of a face board against your 2×4 guide, as close to the center of the headboard as possible.
Mark on the board where it encounters the edge of the plywood backing, then cut the board to this length on your miter saw.
Apply wood glue to the bottom of a face board.
Place the board glue-side down against the plywood backing, pressing it into your 2×4 guide.
Use a Speed square to ensure the face board is angled 45 degrees to the 2×4 guide. Then fasten it in place with a 23-gauge pin nailer, one pin at each end.
Repeat the process with the rest of the face boards. Use a 1/8-in. strip of wood (or yardstick in my case) to create small, even spaces between each board.
Remove the 2×4 guides when you’ve fastened all face boards in the first quarter of the headboard. Then reposition the guides to work on the other quarters.
When finished, let the glue dry overnight.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Step 7
Caulk the joints
Mix paint of your preferred color into a tube of tintable caulk, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the tip off the caulk tube, taking care to not remove too much of the nozzle. This way the opening remains as small as possible.
Dispense tinted caulk into all the gaps between face boards.
Inject the caulk as deeply as possible down into each crack. Use enough that the beads stick up above the surrounding wood.
Allow 24 hours for the caulk to harden.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Step 8
Sand the headboard and legs
Smooth the faces of the legs with an edge sander.
Add an 80-grit belt to your belt sander. Then sand the front face of the headboard to flatten and flush up the surface and remove excess caulk.
Transition to a half sheet sander with 120-grit paper, then a palm sander with 180-grit paper.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Step 9
Trim the headboard and install the legs
Use a track saw to trim all edges of the headboard to final dimensions. For a single bed, the measurements are 41-in. wide by 33-in. tall, not counting the legs.
Glue and clamp the legs to the edges of the headboard with quick grips so the thinner side of the L-shaped profile is mounted on the front of the headboard. Ensure the leg tips are flush with the top edge of the headboard.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Step 10
Cut and install the top and bottom caps
Rip cut your remaining planed pallet spindles into two strips, one 2- by 3/4-in. and the other 2- by 1-1/2-inches.
Take a miter saw and cut the thicker strip long enough to cover the top edge of your headboard, including the ends of the legs. You could give it a stylish 1/2-in. overhang on each end if you’d like.
Cut the thinner strip to fit tightly between legs at the bottom edge of the headboard.
Sand both strips until they’re smooth.
Hold the strips temporarily in place with parallel-jaw clamps. Then pre-drill holes through the strips and into the headboard.
Fasten the top and bottom caps in place with brass screws and cup washers.
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
Step 11
Apply finish
Vacuum all surfaces of the headboard, along with the surrounding area.
Let the finish dry, then sand lightly and re-coat as needed.
Install the complete headboard between the bed and wall of your choice. You can bolt it to the bed frame or simply pinch it between the bed and wall. Looking for more project ideas? Learn how to build a coffee table with reclaimed wood.
While you’re at it, here are some awesome pallet furniture ideas for you!
Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman
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