How to Prep Walls for Painting
Fix any wall before you paint to get a super-smooth finish. We'll walk you through how to prep walls for painting.
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IntroductionIf you're going to paint the walls, you want them looking smooth.
- Mud pan
- Pry bar
- Taping knife
- Utility knife
- Aluminum drywall patch
- Drywall compound
- Drywall mesh tape
- Drywall paper tape
- Sanding sponge
- Stain-blocking primer
Are the walls in your living room looking a little worse for wear? If so, it might be time for a new paint job. But before you set up a paint roller and crack open a bucket of paint, you’ve got some work to do in order to get your walls ready to paint.
Over the years walls get damaged by moving furniture, toddlers with markers, and other hazards. It’s important to fix those things before you paint the walls. You’ll want to spend the time preparing the surface before you paint the walls so that you have a nice smooth paint job that will last for years.
Below, you’ll find a few key steps for getting your walls ready to paint.
Project step-by-step (10)
Find and mark flaws in the walls
The first step to preparing walls for painting is to find and mark any flaws. Minor flaws in the drywall are often hard to spot—until the afternoon sun hits them and makes them embarrassingly obvious.
To find the hard-to-see flaws, start by turning off all the lights in the room and closing the curtains. Then hold a trouble light next to the wall and move it across the surface (a process called “raking”).
Wherever the light highlights a problem, even a small one, stick a piece of tape next to it so you can easily find it when you come through with spackling or joint compound. Tape works better than circling the problems with a pencil or pen (which can bleed through the paint).
Fixing nail pops
Seasonal expansion and contraction of studs can push nails out of the drywall. You can’t just resink the nail and apply joint compound over the top—the nail will pop back out.
To permanently fix a popped nail, drive a drywall screw about 2 in. above or below the popped nail. Use a 1-1/4-in. screw (screws hold better than nails). A longer screw isn’t better—it’s actually more likely to pop out than a shorter one.
Now pull out the nail, holding a wide putty knife under your pry bar to protect the wall. Tap the empty nail hole with the putty knife handle to knock protruding drywall fragments into the wall (or you won’t get a smooth coat of filler on the wall). Finally, cover the screw head and fill the nail hole with three coats of joint compound.
How to seal torn drywall paper
One important part of preparing the walls for painting is sealing torn paper. The back of a chair, a flying video game remote or an aggressive kid with a toy truck can tear the drywall paper face. A coat of paint or joint compound over torn paper will create a fuzzy texture. For a smooth finish, seal the torn paper.
Start by cutting away any loose paper. Then seal the exposed drywall with a stain-blocking primer. This keeps the drywall from absorbing moisture from the soon-to-be-applied joint compound. Wait for the primer to dry, then sand the exposed drywall edges to remove paper nubs. Cover the gouge with a thin layer of joint compound, feathering it out along the wall. If necessary, apply a second coat, feathering it as well, then wait for it to dry and sand it smooth.
After applying joint compound, be sure to cover it with primer before painting to prevent “flashing.” Flashing occurs when joint compound absorbs the paint, dulling the finish.
Tape and fill damaged corners
Metal corner bead dents easily, causing cracks in the wall. Fortunately, the fix is relatively simple too. Use a hammer to knock the bead back into shape with several light taps instead of hard blows. Use a level to make sure the bead doesn’t stick out past the finished walls or you won’t get a clean corner (bury the bead in the wall a little if needed). Round any sharp edges on the bead with a file.
When you hit the bead with a hammer, you probably sent cracks up and down the corner, especially if the bead wasn’t taped. Don’t worry; this is part of preparing your walls for painting. Place mesh tape over the cracks, then apply joint compound over the tape and corner bead on one side only. Work on one side at a time—the first side needs to be hard so you can square the other side. Once the first side is dry, apply joint compound to the second side. Then recoat the corner, let it dry and sand it smooth.
Cut around glue spots
Mirrors and paneling are sometimes installed with an adhesive backing to help hold them in place. But when you take them down, the glue sticks to the drywall. Don’t try to pull it off—you’ll tear the drywall face, making rips across the wall. Instead, cut around the glue with a utility knife, cutting through the drywall face.
Scrape off the glue with a putty knife. You’ll still tear the paper, but the tears will be confined to the outline you cut in the drywall. Use 120-grit sandpaper on small areas of glue that won’t scrape off. Then, fill gouges that you made in the wall with joint compound.
Fill holes in the wall
Fill small holes and indents (less than 1/8 in.) with spackling compound. For larger holes, use joint compound instead.
Apply either compound with a putty knife, spreading it thin on the wall. You’ll apply two more coats (the compounds shrink as they dry), so don’t worry if the hole isn’t filled perfectly the first time. Let each coat of compound dry (read the directions; some dry in just two hours).
Don’t believe spackling labels that say you don’t have to sand—you do. You’ll have to sand between coats if there’s any excess compound. After the final coat, use fine-grit sandpaper.
Fill cracks in the wall
When homes settle, drywall cracks sometimes shoot out above or below windows and above doors. You can’t just cover or fill the cracks with joint compound—they’ll come back. Instead, fix the cracks with joint compound and mesh tape. Mesh tape gives you less buildup than paper tape and is plenty strong. Protect the window or door trim with masking tape before starting the fix.
To fill the crack, use a utility knife to cut a V-shaped groove along its entire length (Photo 1). Fill the groove with joint compound, let it dry, then sand it flush with the wall. Place mesh tape over the crack (Photo 2). Apply joint compound over the tape and feather it out 2 to 4 in. on each side of the tape. Let the compound dry, then apply a second and third coat, feathering it out 8 to 10 in. from the tape with a 10-in. taping blade.
Fix holes fast with an aluminum patch
The old method of repairing large holes was to cut out a square in the drywall, attach wood backing and then screw on a new patch of drywall. Patching drywall with aluminum patches is a faster, easier solution to repair large holes. It makes preparing the walls for painting a breeze.
Cut the patch so it covers the hole by at least 1 in. on each side, then place it over the hole. One side is sticky to adhere to the wall. Cover the patch with joint compound. Let it dry overnight, then recoat.
Block stains with special primer
Don’t expect regular primer or paint to cover marker or crayon marks; they’ll bleed through even several coats of paint. The same goes for water stains. So, part of preparing the walls for painting is cleaning them off.
First try to wash off the marker or crayon with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser dipped in warm water. If that doesn’t work, cover the marks with stainblocking primer. Apply the primer with a roller so the texture will match the rest of the wall. Buy a cheap disposable roller and then throw it away when you’re done.
Replace lifting tape
Tape will lift off the wall if there isn’t enough joint compound underneath to adhere it to the drywall. You’ll have to cut away the loose tape and replace it. Start by cutting through the paint and joint compound to remove every piece of loose tape. Go beyond the cracked area.
Peel away the tape until you see the underlying drywall. Then fill the hole with joint compound and wait for it to harden. Embed mesh or paper tape in joint compound over the hole. Extend the tape a few inches past the hole on each side. Once it’s dry, apply a second coat and feather it to blend the patch with the wall.
What’s the difference between ceiling paint and wall paint?
The key difference between ceiling paint and wall paint lies in the formulation and, more importantly, the application. Ceiling paint is specifically designed to minimize drips, spatters, and splatters when painting overhead. It is typically thicker than wall paint, which helps prevent these issues and results in a smoother, more even finish. Ceiling paint also dries slowly, allowing for better coverage. On the other hand, wall paint is formulated for vertical surfaces, so it’s thinner, which makes it easier to work with on walls. Attempting to use wall paint on a ceiling can lead to uneven application and more drips. Therefore, it’s important to choose the right type of paint for each surface to achieve a professional and hassle-free finish.
Do you have to prime a wall before painting?
Yes, priming your walls before painting is often a crucial step in achieving a professional and long-lasting finish. Primer provides several essential benefits, such as creating an even surface, promoting better paint adhesion, and preventing stains or discoloration from bleeding through the paint. Additionally, it can help you use less paint and save money, as it acts as a base coat that enhances the coverage of your paint. Priming is particularly important when painting over porous or uneven surfaces, like new drywall or patched areas, as it seals the surface and ensures the paint adheres uniforfmly.
Do you have to sand primer before painting walls?
It largely depends on the surface and the type of primer you’ve used. In many cases, a light sanding can be beneficial. It helps create a smoother, more uniform surface, especially if the primer has left behind brush marks, roller stipple, or uneven textures. For glossy surfaces or high-gloss primers, sanding is essential to create a slightly roughened texture, allowing the paint to grip better. However, if you’ve used a primer with a flat finish and the surface appears even and ready, sanding might not be necessary. Ultimately, the key is to assess your primer coat. If it’s smooth, uniform, and doesn’t have any noticeable imperfections, you may be able to skip the sanding step. But when in doubt, a light sanding will generally improve your painting results and provide a more flawless finish.