The Ultimate Guide to Installing Vinyl Plank Flooring
This step-by-step guide makes installing vinyl plank flooring easy.
1-2 days
Intermediate
Varies
Introduction
Learn how to install vinyl plank flooring with these clear instructions that guide you through each step of the installation process.
Welcome to Family Handyman’s Guide to Gorgeous Floors, where you can find all the essential tips and tricks for achieving the floors of your dreams and keeping them looking good as new for years to come.
If you’re looking to update your flooring but want to avoid the hassle of tile or hardwood, consider vinyl plank flooring. It’s a great option for many situations because it’s easy to install and creates less mess than other flooring choices.
Luxury vinyl flooring is like sheet vinyl but offers greater thickness, durability, and ease of installation. It comes in both tile and plank formats and is an affordable option that effectively mimics the appearance of natural wood. As a floating floor, luxury vinyl planks (LVP) are not attached to the subfloor; instead, they simply sit or “float” on top of it. Prices for LVP begin at around a couple of dollars per square foot, but the cost can increase significantly depending on quality. LVP is available at flooring stores and home improvement centers. Best of all, with a few tools and these step-by-step instructions, you can install LVP yourself in just a weekend.
Tools Required
- Brad Nailer
- Chisel
- Hacksaw
- Miter saw / flooring saw
- Nail set
- Oscillating multitool w/blades
- Pull bar
- Rubber mallet
- Shop vac
- Square
- Table saw
- Tape measure
- Tapping block
- Utility knife
Materials Required
- 1-1/4" brad nails
- Flooring spacers
- Transition strips
- Trim paint or stain
- Underlayment w/ tape
- Vinyl plank flooring
- Wood filler
Watch The Ultimate Guide to Installing Vinyl Plank Flooring
Project step-by-step (11)
Make calculations
Calculate your room’s square footage by measuring its length and width, and add 10% for mistakes and waste. Keep in mind that if your luxury vinyl plank (LVP) has a specific pattern, such as a herringbone, it will create more waste, so you’ll want to add 20-25% for mistakes and waste. Consider room shape irregularities and out-of-square walls when measuring, as these may require additional material.
Once you have the flooring on hand and acclimated for at least 48 hours, but before you start installing, it’s important to calculate the number of rows of planks it will take to cross the room. This calculation will help you avoid having narrow, unattractive planks at one end of the room.
First, measure the width of the room minus the expansion gap (1/2-inch for rooms under 50 feet wide/long or 1-inch for rooms over 50 feet wide/long), and divide that measurement by the width of the planks. This calculation will give you the total number of planks you’ll need, which may not be a whole number.
For example, if you are installing on a 44-inch-wide hallway and are using 6-inch-wide planks, you would need to install 7.25 planks across the hallway. Since the result is 7.25 planks, take the decimal portion (.25) and multiply it by 6 inches (the plank width). This gives you 1-1/2 inches for the width of the last row.
If the last row’s width is very narrow (anything under half the width of a full plank according to most manufacturers), adjust the widths of the first and last rows to create a more visually appealing look by ripping them on the table saw. Add their widths together and divide by two. In our example: 6-inch + 1-1/2-inch = 7-1/2-inches ÷ 2 = 3-3/4-inch wide first and last rows. This way, instead of having a thin last row, you distribute the difference more evenly across the first and last rows.

Prepare the floor
If there is carpet on the floor, remove it and the pad under it until you reach the subfloor. Vinyl plank flooring can be installed over concrete, tile, wood, and other laminate flooring, assuming that these existing floors are undamaged and level.
Be sure to meticulously sweep and vacuum the subfloor to remove any debris, check for any screws or nails that may be sticking up and pound them down.

Install the underlayment
Nowadays, most vinyl plank flooring, including ours, has a built-in underlayment attached to the back, but applying a floor underlayment to prevent moisture from forming underneath your vinyl flooring is important, especially when laying it over concrete. If the flooring you’re using doesn’t have an attached underlayment and/or you are laying it over a concrete floor, check the manufacturer’s instructions for your floor on the recommended underlayment type.
When laying down an underlayment, be sure to cover the entire subfloor surface and roll it perpendicular to the direction you plan to install your planks. Tape the seams together with joining tape, being careful not to overlap sections of the underlayment, which would create an uneven surface.
Install spacers between planks and the wall
Starting with your first plank in a corner of the room, place a 1/4-inch spacer between the plank and both walls to create an expansion gap for the vinyl planks to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity. If the room is longer or wider than 50 feet, change this to a 1/2-inch spacer. Every plank that meets the walls should have spacers.

Install the first row
Open several boxes at once and mix them up to ensure a varied pattern and consistent color.
When installing vinyl plank flooring, some manufacturers require that the seams between the planks be staggered at least eight inches apart. Make sure to check the specific requirements for your flooring.
Start by laying down the vinyl planks with the groove edge facing away from the wall and the tongue or cut edge facing the wall. Begin installing the first row of planks by connecting them together using their interlocking tongue-and-groove system. To ensure a tight connection between the planks, use a tapping block and a rubber mallet.
Arrange your first row to check how the first row planks align and determine how much you will trim from the last plank in that row.

Trim the last plank
Once you reach the end of the first row and you need to trim the plank to reach the wall, flip the plank over so the tongue edge is facing you. Place the spacer between the end wall and the plank. Line the speed square with the seam of the plank it will be attached to and mark it with a pencil. Cut the vinyl plank flooring with a miter saw, flooring saw, or utility knife. (If you’re using a utility knife, score the plank at your marked location several times and then flip the plank on its back to snap off the access.)
Connect the trimmed plank, ensuring that the tongue edge faces the wall. Use a pull bar and a rubber mallet to secure the first row of planks tightly. Position one end of the pull bar against the end of the plank closest to the wall. Then, gently tap the opposite end of the pull bar with the mallet. This will help pull the plank to make a secure connection to the other plank.

Move on to the next rows
Lay down the next row of planks below the first row, starting from the original corner. If your offcut piece from the last plank in the first row is eight inches or longer, you can use it as the starting piece for the next row.
You want the seams to be staggered for visual appeal. Stagger the seams at least eight inches, and don’t start or end any row with a plank less than eight inches wide. Keep spacers in place at the walls to maintain your expansion gap, and check for gaps between planks as you install each row. Every few rows, step back and check that your installation remains straight and parallel. Continue using the same installation method as the first row, trimming end pieces as needed to maintain proper stagger.

Trim the door jambs
When you approach a door, you will need to use an oscillating multitool with a wood-cutting blade to trim the doorjamb so the vinyl floor can fit underneath. Use a scrap piece of plank flooring (including any underlayment, if applicable) and hold it against the door jamb to establish the proper cutting height.
Hold the multitool blade flat against the scrap flooring as you cut through the jamb. You may also need to trim the door stop molding depending on your installation. Then use a chisel to remove any stuck pieces from the doorjamb. Vacuum all debris before proceeding. Once you have trimmed the doorjamb, test-fit the scrap piece of vinyl plank so it fits underneath smoothly.

Install the transition strip
If the vinyl flooring is transitioning to a different type, a transition strip is required to avoid gaps in the flooring and improve its visual appeal when moving from one room to another. Choose from transition types like T-molding for same-height floors, reducers for height differences, or door thresholds for exterior doors.
Leave a 1/4-inch gap between the vinyl floor and the transition strip for expansion. Choose a strip that matches the vinyl floor you are installing; most vinyl plank flooring manufacturers offer matching transition strips for a perfect match.
Measure from door jamb to door jamb to determine the length of the transition piece. Use your tape measure to get this length, and then trim the transition piece with a utility knife. If the transition strip contains a metal rail, use a hacksaw to cut it.
Test fit the transition piece before permanent installation to ensure proper fit and alignment. Install the transition using the manufacturer’s recommended method – typically screws, adhesive, or snap-in systems, depending on the transition type.

Install shoe molding
Once your flooring is down, install shoe molding to cover the expansion gap between the flooring and the base trim.
Use a nail gun to shoot 1-1/4-inch brad nails through the shoe molding and into the base trim every 16-20 inches. Be careful not to pin the flooring down in the process. Set the nails below the surface and fill the holes with wood filler.
Finally, finish the molding to match the trim, not the flooring.

FAQ
What is the cost of installing vinyl plank flooring?
The cost of vinyl plank flooring averages $3-10 per square foot.
What are common mistakes when installing vinyl plank flooring?
Common mistakes include failing to properly prepare the floor before installation, neglecting to install underlayment, not staggering seams, and forgetting to purchase excess flooring.
Do you have to remove baseboards and molding when installing vinyl plank flooring?
While it is not necessary to remove the baseboards when installing vinyl plank flooring, doing so will result in a cleaner, more professional finish, eliminating the need for shoe molding.

