How to Build a Hammock Awning

Notch and Drill the Posts

• Make the top notch for the ridge board by drilling a 1-1/2 in. hole through the post and then hand-sawing from the top to the edges of the hole.
• Drill the 1/2-in. diameter hole 12 in. from the bottom for the No. 4 rebar.
  • Note: Check your individual hammock specs to make sure you get enough spread between your posts. We spaced ours 166-1/2 in. from center to center, which left 161 in. between. This distance worked for a wide variety of hammocks.

Family Handyman

Clean the Notches

• For the side notches, make multiple passes with your circular saw set at 1-1/4 in. deep.
• Then clean out the debris left behind with a wood chisel.
• Flatten the bottom of the notch with a coarse file.

Family Handyman

Dig Holes and Plant the Posts

• Dig a 12 x 24-in. hole at least 31 in. deep.
• Screw a cleat 30 in. from the bottom of the post to hold it to the correct depth.
• Drill a pilot hole, then drive a 16-in. long piece of rebar (expose equal amounts on each side) through the post as shown to help bond it to the concrete.

Family Handyman

Plumb the Posts and Pour Concrete

• Nail a pair of 1×3 x 8-ft. temporary supports about 20 in. down from the top of the posts to help you plumb and position the posts.
• Screw the supports to stakes driven into the ground.
• Once the posts are straight up and down, run a string line across the bottom and tweak the posts so their faces are perfectly aligned.
• With your posts aligned and level with each other, mix your concrete, two bags at a time, to a firm consistency.
• Scoop the concrete into the hole and use a stick to pack it in around the post.
• Keep mixing bags until you get up to the surrounding soil.
• Check your alignment again and then berm the concrete slightly so rainwater will run off.
• Complete both holes, recheck alignment and wait two days before adding to the structure.

Family Handyman

Cut the Curved Parts While You Wait for the Concrete to Set

• • Note: The curved parts (D and F) of this structure give it a soothing elegance. They’re not difficult to cut but take time to lay out.
• Make a full-size template by drawing a 2 x 2-in. grid on a piece of Masonite or thin plywood.
• Lay out the curves with a trammel (large homemade compass) by simply drawing the inner and outer radii of each piece on your lumber.
  • Pro tip: Use a large deep-throated jigsaw blade to help make a smooth, even curve. A regular jigsaw blade is thinner and shorter and could wander in thick material.
• Plot the points as shown in the plans and draw the curves.
• Cut out the shapes with a jigsaw.
• Use this thin piece as your pattern to mark the actual pieces onto wider dimensional lumber.

Set the Ridge Beam

• Set one end of the ridge into a notch and then walk the other end up the ladder and drop it into the opposite notch.
  • Note: You may need to tap the ridge to get it completely seated.
• Fasten it to the posts with 3-1/2 in. lag screws set off center and one on each side.

Family Handyman

Make Supports for the Crossties

• Using a water-resistant carpenter’s glue, glue and clamp pairs of bracket pieces to make up the thick supports for the crossties.
• Once the glue dries, sand the edges with a belt sander to even the curves of the brackets and the rafters.
  • Pro tip: Start with an aggressive 60-grit belt and move to a 100-grit for the final sand.

Family Handyman

Attach the Crossties

• Center the crossties on the post notches.
• Lag-screw each one to the post with 5/16-in. x 2-1/2 in. lag screws.

Family Handyman

Attach the Brackets

• Clamp your brackets in place them onto the post.
• Drill a 1/4-in. deep recess with a 1-in. spade bit, then drill a 1/4-in. pilot hole for your 5/16-in. x 4-in. galvanized lag screws.

Family Handyman

Attach the First Fascia Boards

• Center the 2×6 fascia on each side and align the lower edge with the point on the crossties.
• Drive 3-in. deck screws through the fascia boards into the crossties, leaving 9-3/4 in. projecting past the outer crossties.

Family Handyman

Fasten the Curved Rafters in Place

• Brace the fascia temporarily to take out any bow.
• Clamp one end of the rafter to the fascia and screw the rafter to the ridge.
• Screw through the ridge into the rafter using a pair of 3-1/2 in. deck screws at each end.
• Start with the center rafter and then lay them out evenly (34-3/4 in. on center) toward each end.
  • Note: The end rafters appear tight to the posts, but they’re actually spaced 1/4 in. away.

Family Handyman

Rip the 5/4 Decking

• Rip the 5/4×6 cedar decking in half to 2-11/16 in. width using an edge guide mounted on your circular saw.
• Round over the cut edges to match the factory edges with a bearing-guide 1/4-in. round-over bit.

Family Handyman

Use Nails as Spacers

• Install the top center slat first.
• Space the slats evenly.
• Drive finish nails every 4-15/16 in. (from the top down) to help hold the slats in relative position as you fasten the far end.
• Screw in the slats, then pull the nails.
• Straighten the slats as you screw them to the middle group of rafters.

Family Handyman

Attach the Roof Slats

• Check the spacing at each junction to avoid wavy slats.
• Screw the roof slats with two 2-in. deck screws into each rafter.

Family Handyman

Seal the Framework

• Lay a tarp on the ground below and apply the finish with a 4-in. roller immediately followed by a 2-in. brush.
• Begin with the upper slats and work your way to the posts.
• Let the finish dry for a day before using the shelter.

Attach Hammock Chain

• Drill a 3/8-in. pilot hole and then drive a screw eye into the post.
  • Pro tip: Use a lever to help turn the screw eye.
• Add a 10-in. piece of chain.
  • Note: We only needed two links to connect the hammock. You can let the extra chain dangle or cut it off if you’d like.

Family Handyman

Add a Cover

• Attach the cover with special turn-and-lock fasteners provided by your awning company.
  • Note: If you choose not to use a tarp, you’ll still get ample shade from the roof slats above.

Family Handyman