Do-it-yourself solutions to irritating irrigation problems.
Time
An hour or less
Complexity
Beginner
Cost
Less than $20
Introduction
These simple lawn irrigation system fixes will solve 90 percent of the common breakdowns. You'll save on repair bills and keep your lawn lush and green. No special skills needed.
Tools Required
4-in-1 screwdriver
Hacksaw
Slip joint pliers
Spade
Wire stripper/cutter
Materials Required
Band clamps
Replacement heads and other parts
Tubing repair parts
Waterproof wire connectors
Project step-by-step (11)
Step 1
Replace a Sprinkler Head
Dig around the sprinkler head to expose the riser.
Install the new head, turning it tight with your hands.
Caution: Before you start digging to access the underground water lines, electrical wires or spray heads, dial 811 to have your underground utility lines identified and marked.
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Step 2
Clean and Reset Heads
Disassemble the sprinkler head by unscrewing the top from the canister.
Remove the screen basket from the bottom of the head, then clean it with water.
Adjust the watering range of the sprinkler head before installing it. Make final adjustments with the water running.
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Step 3
Check the Valves
If you’re experiencing low water pressure, check the sprinkler system valves on the backflow device to make sure they’re open.
Turn the valve on the horizontal pipe first, then the vertical pipe valve.
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Step 4
Find and Repair Leaks
Before making the repair, make sure the system is turned off at the controller.
Cut out the damaged section of line.
Place a clamp on one of the line ends, insert a slip coupling, then tighten the clamp.
Place a clamp on the second pipe end, expand the coupling while inserting the nipple into the pipe, then tighten the clamp.
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Step 5
Repair Crushed Pipes
Dig along the water line until you find the damaged section. If the line runs near a tree, start your digging there.
Once you locate the damaged section, cut it out with a hacksaw.
If the line was damaged by tree roots, reroute the line by digging a new trench away from the tree.
Cut a new section of pipe to replace the damaged one.
Then replace the section of pipe, connecting it at each end with regular couplings and band clamps.
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ⓘ
Step 6
Check for Low Voltage
Your watering system is divided into a series of zones.
Generally, if you have a zone that’s not turning on, you have an electrical problem.
Make sure the zone wires are firmly attached to the terminals in the controller, the transformer is plugged in, and the circuit breaker at the main panel is on.
Next, test for voltage to the nonworking zone, using a multimeter.
Turn on the nonworking zone at the controller.
Turn the multimeter dial to voltage and place one lead on the common terminal.
The common terminal will be marked “c” or “com”
Place the other lead on the terminal of the zone that’s not working.
Refer to your owner’s manual to see whether the voltage reading falls within the required range (usually 24 to 28 volts).
If it doesn’t, the controller needs to be replaced.
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Step 7
Test the Transformer
Test the transformer voltage by placing the multimeter leads on the transformer terminals marked “24 vac” with the transformer plugged in.
If the reading is less than 22, replace the transformer.
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Step 8
Replace Sprinkler Solenoid
Disconnect the wires and unscrew the defective solenoid from the control valve. Insert a new one and turn it until it’s finger-tight.
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Step 9
Reconnect the Wires
Connect the two wires on the new solenoid to the common wire and a field wire, using waterproof connectors.
If the controller, fuse and transformer check out OK, test the resistance “ohms” between the common terminal and the nonworking zone.
Turn off the system, turn the multimeter to test for ohms (the omega symbol), and place the leads on the common terminal and zone terminal, just as you did to test for voltage.
Compare the ohms reading with the range listed in your owner’s manual (usually 20 to 60 ohms).
If the ohms fall below the required amount, the switch (solenoid) that operates the control valve for that zone is defective and needs to be replaced. The defective solenoid will be connected to the same color wire as the zone wire at the controller.
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Step 11
Repair damaged wires
If the ohms reading between the common terminal and nonworking zone terminal is too high, the problem is a severed or bad wire to the control valve.
If only one zone isn’t working, the field wire is damaged.
If none of the zones in a control valve box is working, the common wire is damaged, although the field wires could also be bad.
To find a bad wire, bypass each in turn by temporarily substituting a 14-gauge wire for the original that you run above ground.
Make the wire connections with the controller turned off. Then turn the controller back on.
Test the field wire first.
If the zone turns on, the old field wire is bad. Replace it with an 18-gauge wire rated for underground burial. Bury the wire at least eight inches underground.
Follow the same procedure to test the common wire.
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