Make a Building Block Table the Whole Family Will Love

Pre-paint and cut

Get all your painting done before assembly to minimize touch-ups on the back end. Paint the 3/4-in. plywood faces first — one side near-white for the outside of the table, one side green for the inside. Then paint all remaining components, including the 1×2 pieces and the 1/2-in. plywood for the back (Q), their final colors before cutting and assembly. Leave the edgebanding (J + K) unpainted to avoid warping and curling.

Let everything dry completely, then cut all components from the cutting list above on the table saw and miter saw.

Assemble the casework

To bring the cabinets together quickly and accurately, first pin the butt joints together using wood glue and 1-1/4-in. 18-gauge nails. Then countersink 1-1/4-in. screws to tighten down all the seams for strength.

Join the two sides (A) of each cabinet to the underside of the cabinet tops (B), then install the cabinet bottom (C) flush with the bottom edges of the two sides (A).

Use wood glue and 18-gauge nails to evenly space the shelves (D) inside each cabinet opening — roughly 8-9/16-in. apart — flush with the back edge of each side (A). Make sure they are square and level. Countersink all screw heads on the sides (A) below the surface so they’re easy to hide with filler during finishing.

Hang the bin rails

Use wood glue and 18-gauge nails to hang the rails (E) for the plastic bins. The bin openings should be snug, not too loose — adjust these measurements based on the size of the bins you’re using. Secure the rails 1-1/2-in. below the top and corresponding shelf.

Flip the cabinets upside down and use scrap 1x2s as spacers to position the bin rails 1-1/2-in below the shelves above them (D) and 1-1/2-in. from the front edge of the cabinet sides (A).

Install bin stops

To prevent the plastic bins from being pushed too far into the cabinet, install bin stops (F) on each shelf (D) five inches in from the back edge. Use a scrap 1×2 cut to five inches as a spacer to position them consistently. Adjust this measurement if you’re using different bins.

Cut the access panels

Place the tabletop (L) on top of the two cabinet tops (B) and clamp them together so the tabletop edges on each end are flush with the outside edges of the cabinet tops. Confirm there is a uniform 1/2-in. overhang at the front and back.

Mark out placement for the two bin access holes (8-1/8-in. wide x 10-1/8-in. long), centered over the plastic bins on each cabinet. For our project, the access panels were cut three inches in from the sides of the top (L) and four inches from the front edge.

For the first cut, set your circular saw depth to cut through both the tabletop (L) and the cabinet tops (B) it’s clamped to. Cut a rectangular hole through both layers that is 1/2-in. smaller in each direction (7-1/8-in. x 9-1/8-in.). Use a clamped or taped-down board to guide your circular saw and keep the cuts straight.

For the second cut, separate the tabletop (L) from the cabinets and, using the same process, cut the access hole to its final dimension of 8-1/8-in. x 10-1/8-in. through the tabletop (L) only. Cutting the first hole smaller in the cabinet top (B) creates a lip where the lid (P) will rest when in place.

Make the lids

Measure the access holes cut in the tabletop (L). Ours measured 8-1/8-in. x 10-1/8-in. Cut the lids (P) from 3/4-in. plywood so they are 1/8-in. smaller in both directions (ours were 8-in. x 10-in.).

At the drill press, use a 3/4-in. Forstner bit to drill a single hole in the center of each lid (P) to serve as a finger pull for removing and replacing them.

Secure the tabletop

Set the tabletop (L) back on top of the cabinet bases, aligning it to the position where you cut the access panels. The tabletop edges on each end should be flush with the outside edges of the cabinet tops (B), with a 1/2-in. overhang at the front and back.

Make sure the smaller hole in the cabinet top aligns under the larger hole in the tabletop, leaving a 1/2-in. reveal. Nail and brad glue the tabletop (L) to the two cabinet tops (B), then follow with at least two 1-1/4-in. screws connecting each cabinet top to the tabletop.

Trim the tabletop edge

Attach the tabletop trim pieces (M + N) to hide the plywood edges and give the table a finished look. These pieces get a 45-degree miter cut on each end. Cut them long and sneak up on the final fit for tight miters. Secure the trim pieces (M + N) to the tabletop (L) edge using wood glue and 1-1/4-in. brad nails.

Install the back panel

Attaching the back panel (Q) covers the back of the cabinets and keeps the table square. Slide the 1/2-in.-thick back panel under the tabletop trim (M) on the back side of the table and secure it flush to the outside edges of the outermost cabinet sides (A). Use wood glue and brad nails to attach it to the back edges of the sides (A), bottoms (C), and shelves (D) of both cabinets.

Install the edgebanding

To hide all exposed plywood edges on the front of the cabinet sides, bottoms, and shelves, attach 1/4-in.-thick solid edgebanding using wood glue and 23-gauge pins. Attach the two vertical edgebanding (J) pieces flush to the outside of the cabinet sides (A) first, then cut the horizontal (K) pieces to fit between them on the cabinet bottom (C) and inset cabinet shelves (D). To avoid warping and curling, wait until the edgebanding is installed before painting it.

Add building block baseplates

Attach a 15-in. x 15-in. building block baseplate to the outside face of each cabinet side (A). Apply spray adhesive to both the back of the baseplate and the cabinet side, being careful to keep overspray contained. Align each baseplate 3-3/4-in. from the top and centered side to side, then press the pieces together firmly.

Install a 1×2 frame around each baseplate. Use wood glue and 23-gauge pins to attach the horizontal rail (H) pieces at the top and bottom of each baseplate, flush with the outside edges. Then install the vertical stile (G) pieces along the two outside edges of the baseplate, covering the end grain of the rails (H).

Finishing touches

• Break all sharp edges with 150-grit sandpaper.
• Use a nail set to ensure all nail heads are set below the surface of the plywood.
• Fill all nail and screw holes with wood filler. Let it dry, then sand smooth.
• Caulk any open seams with paintable caulk.
• Touch up the paint on the entire unit. Use painter’s tape to keep the line between colors crisp.
• Rolling green paint onto the tabletop surface to refresh the finish.

FAQ

Are all building blocks standard size?

Not all building blocks are standard size.  Look on packaging for phrases like “compatible with major brands.” However, the ultimate assurance comes by testing for yourself.  The true secret to building blocks working with one another is in how snugly they fit together. If they are too loose, a project may come apart.  If they are too tight, they may not connect at all. Stick to one brand for continuity when using building blocks.

What is the best way to clean building block pieces?

The best way to clean a building block piece is to soak it in warm water with dish detergent. Rinse them thoroughly to remove all soap residue. To tackle stubborn dirt, gently scrub with a soft toothbrush or a wet cloth. Allow to air dry and do not use a dishwasher, washing machine, or hairdryer during cleaning. Exposure to high heat will warp and deform the plastic.

What is the best way to clean this table?

A microfiber cloth lightly dampened with soap and water will do a good job of keeping this table clean. Avoid drenching the table with moisture to prevent bloating and water stains.

What is the best way to store building blocks?

When storing building blocks, avoid direct sunlight and extreme heat.  Direct sunlight may cause the building blocks to fade or change color, and exposure to heat may make the plastic brittle and cause the building blocks to warp, shrink, or contract.  The easiest way to store building blocks is in clear plastic bins, sorted by color for easy access. Plastic bins stack easily, taking up a small footprint.