Maximize bathroom vanity storage space with three simple roll-out and swing-out shelving projects. You can build them all in a weekend for less than $100.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine
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$20 – $100
Overview: Three storage solutions
Most vanities are poor storage spaces because they’re designed for the convenience of plumbers, not for you. While that big, open box is nice for installing pipes, it leaves you with jumbled storage and wasted space.
But you can convert that box into useful space by installing any or all of these three upgrades. You’ll expand the real estate under your sink and make it easy to find anything in seconds. Even a beginning DIYer can build all three projects in a weekend, at a total cost of about $75.
Project 1: Swing-Out Shelf
Get everything within reach! This spacious, double-level shelving unit pivots in and out effortlessly.
Project 2: Mini Rollout
No more tipping! This rollout has taller sides for taller products as well as full-extension hardware.
Project 3: Drawer Top Trays
Get organized! Make these nifty sliding trays for all your vanity drawers.
Project 1: Swing-out shelf
Photo 1: Install the edging, then trim it
Cut the hardboard edging a few inches too long, fasten it with screws and slice off the excess with a fine-tooth saw. Finish washers give the screws a neater look.
Photo 2: Hang it on a hinge
Raise the shelf with spacers and align the shelf back with the inside edge of the face frame. Screw the piano hinge to the shelf back, then to the cabinet. You may have to notch the shelf back to clear the door hinge.
Here’s the answer to all that inaccessible clutter on the floor of your vanity. With one pull, you can bring stored items out of the dark recesses and into easy reach.
Chances are, the measurements shown in Figure A won’t be best for your vanity. The surest way to determine the right size for your shelf is to cut a quarter circle from cardboard and test the fit. If your vanity has double doors, you can still build this shelf, but you may need to open both doors to swing it out. Here are some tips for building your swing-out shelf:
To make the curved shelves, just mark a half circle and then cut it into two equal quarter circles.
A pneumatic brad nailer makes assembly a cinch. If you don’t have a brad nailer, use trim screws. The awkward shape of the shelves makes hand nailing difficult. Whether you use nails or screws, also use glue.
We finished our shelf with a couple of coats of polyurethane. A can of spray lacquer is also a good option.
Piano hinges come in various lengths, but you probably won’t find exactly what you need for your shelf. That’s OK; you can cut it to length with a hacksaw.
Figure A: Swing-Out Shelf Details
Swing-out shelf parts:
Part A: 1/2” x 11-3/4” x 12” Part B: 1/2” x 13” x 12” Part C: 1/2” x 11-3/4” radius Part D: 1/8” x 1-3/4” x 24”
Materials: 1/2” plywood (A–C) 1/8” hardboard (D) No. 6 screws and finish washers Piano hinge Cabinet pull
Figure A is also available in pdf format in “Additional Information” below.
Trammel for Marking Curves
A homemade trammel is perfect for marking out the curved shelves.
Project 2: Mini rollout
Photo 1: Mount the drawer slides
Separate the two parts of the drawer slide. Screw them to the tray and the base, aligned flush at the fronts.
Photo 2: Elevate the drawer slide with a separate base
Fasten the tray base to the cabinet floor with No. 6 x 1-in. screws, then slide on the drawer.
This handy little rollout has tall sides, fronts and backs to keep bottles and cleaners in place as you open it. Our dimensions are given in Figure B below, but you can alter the size to suit your needs. Here are some building tips:
Assemble the drawer boxes with glue plus trim screws, finish nails or brad nails.
We used a 14-in. “full-extension” drawer slide. This type of slide is typically mounted on the side of a drawer, but it works well as a light-duty undermount slide. If your home center doesn’t carry full-extension slides in the length you need, go to any online cabinet hardware supplier. You can use a standard undermount slide, but your tray won’t extend fully.
Finish the rollout with two coats of polyurethane or spray lacquer.
If you add a cabinet pull as we did, be sure to set the base back a bit so the vanity door can close.
Figure B: Mini Rollout Details
Mini rollout parts: Part A: 1/2” x 3-1/2” x 16” Part B: 1/2” x 3-1/2” x 16” Part C: 1/2” x 3-1/2” x 3” Part D: 1/2” x 3-1/2” x 16”
Figure B is also available in pdf format in “Additional Information” below.
Project 3: Drawer top trays
Photo 1: Add tray supports
Fasten strips of plywood to the drawer to support the tray. You only need two screws per support.
Photo 2: Line the trays
Cut shelf liner to fit the trays. Liner helps stored items stay put when you slide the tray.
Drawers are often too deep for small bathroom stuff like razors, medicine and cosmetics. That means wasted space. These handy sliding trays reduce that waste and increase drawer real estate by 50 percent.
To size the tray, measure the drawer: Subtract 1/16 in. from the width of the drawer space and divide the length in half. Cut a piece of 1/8-in. hardboard this size.
You can make the tray any depth you like. If the opening in the vanity is taller than the height of the drawer, your tray can protrude above the drawer sides.
Finish the tray with a couple of coats of polyurethane or spray lacquer.
Stored items tend to slide around in the trays, so we added shelf liner (available at home centers and discount stores).
Figure C: Drawer Top Tray Details
Drawer top tray dimensions depend upon the sizes of your drawers.