Before You Get Started
We’re showing you two planters of different lengths, but you can adapt them to fit your unique space. You can even change the width by nailing a treated 2×2 to the side of the 2×12 base piece to accommodatea slightly wider pot.
Buying the right lumber
You’ll notice the legs are treated pine and not cedar like the sides and top apron. Treated pine is less likely to split along the grain (a nasty problem with cedar). Pick treated 2×12 material for the legs with as few large knots as possible. You’ll be able to cut around knots on a single board, so bring a tape measure when you select the lumber. Choose straight cedar for the sides and remember that some knots here can add to the overall beauty.
Feel free to use other species of wood such as redwood, cypress or even a plantation-grown tropical wood like ipe (available at some lumberyards).
Step 1: Trace the planter outlines
Using a full-size template made from Fig. A, trace the outline of the planter legs onto pressure- treated 2×12 pine boards. Sand the edges with a finish or belt sander followed by 100-grit hand-sanding to gently ease the edges.
Step 2: Make straight cuts
Make straight cuts using a 12-in. Speed square held firmly against the back of the 2×6.
Step 3: Plane edges where the sideboards meet
Plane only the edges where the side boards C and D meet. This chamfered edge should be about 3/8 in. wide when completed. Clamp a board to the edge of your workbench to stop the workpiece from drifting while you stroke the edge of the board with the plane.
Step 4: Cut base to length
Cut your 2×12 base to length, then screw the lower sides (C) to the base. Align the base and sides so they’re flush on the bottom sides. Predrill for each screw using a pilot/countersink combination bit. Then screw the ends to the sides.
Step 5: Shim the base
Shim the base up 1-3/4 in. on each side using scrap pieces of wood, then clamp the legs one at a time to the sides (C). Screw the sides to the legs with 2-1/2 in. deck screws. Use three screws per leg.
Step 6: Clamp sides to legs
Clamp the upper sides flush to the tops of the legs. Be sure to align the upper and lower side ends before drilling and screwing this piece in place. Again, use three 2-1/2 in. deck screws per leg. Next, screw the upper end panels (D) to the upper sides. Make sure the chamfers face each other on each side.
Step 7: Rip deck boards to make top apron frame
Rip the 5/4 x 6 deck boards to 4-1/2 in. to make the top apron frame. Use a rip guide on your circular saw or a table saw if you have one. Plane and sand the cut edge to match the factory-machined edge of the deck board.
Step 8: Glue and nail side apron pieces
Glue and nail the side apron pieces (E) flush with parts C below. Next, nail the apron end pieces to the end panels (D). You’ll notice the inside edge of F will be about 1/4 in. out from the inside of the planter to adequately cover the tops of the legs.
Use paint, stain or a combination of both
We chose an exterior enamel paint for the legs and apron pieces to accent the deck oil stain/sealer on the base and sides. Stain is a better choice than paint for the base and sides because they’ll be exposed to more moisture than the legs and top. This photo shows the excellent results you can get by staining the entire project with an exterior oil deck stain.
Required Tools for this Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
- 12-in. Speed square (as cutting guide)
- Circular saw
- Tape measure