Best-Kept Secrets of Professional Painters
Great ideas for how to get a perfectly smooth and even paint job.
Paint the Trim First, Then the Ceilings and Walls
When painting the trim, you don’t have to be neat. Just concentrate on getting a smooth finish on the wood. Don’t worry if the door and trim paint gets slopped onto the walls. You’ll cover it later when painting walls. Once the trim is completely painted and dry (at least 24 hours), tape it off (using an ‘easy release’ painter’s tape), then paint the ceiling, then continue on to wall painting.
To Avoid Lap Marks when Wall Painting
To maintain a wet edge, paint an entire wall all at once. Start at one end, running the roller up and down the full height of the wall, moving over slightly with each stroke. Move backward where necessary to even out thick spots or runs. Don’t let the roller become nearly dry; reload it often so that it’s always at least half loaded. Keep the open side of the roller frame facing the area that’s already painted. That puts less pressure on the open side of the roller, so you’re less likely to leave paint ridges. Looking to paint your doors next, these are the tips you need to know.
Pro painters have let us in on their secrets. Watch the video to see a few of our favorites:
Clear the Entire Room Before Painting
Avoid Drips as you Paint
Masking tape does a good job of protecting woodwork—if it’s applied well.
Clean off all the dirt and grime along the edge of the trim with a damp rag. Hold the tape tight against the wall and roll it out so the tape covers the edge. Press the tape against the wood with a putty knife along the entire length. Use painter’s tape that’s at least twice as wide as the trim and leave it flared out to protect the face of the trim from drips. When you’re done, either remove the tape immediately while the paint is still wet or wait until the next day when it’s totally dry. If you pull it free when the paint is partially dry, you may peel off bits of fresh paint along with the tape.
Shine a Light Across the Woodwork and Circle Flaws
Consider Liquid Sandpaper, Especially on Lead Paint
After final sanding and vacuuming, some pros go the extra step of wiping woodwork down with a liquid sandpaper/deglosser (such as Wil-Bond by Wilson-Imperial or ESP by Flood). This step will ensure a good bond. And if you have to deal with lead paint, this step can replace sanding.
Dust and Vacuum Thoroughly
When the first sanding and scraping step is complete, dust off all areas with an old paint brush and vacuum woodwork with a brush attachment.
Fill all holes, even small ones
Run a Crisp Bead of Caulk Between Woodwork and Walls
Sand between coats
Take a Wool-Blend Roller Cover for a Spin
The most important part of your paint rolling setup is the roller cover, also known as a sleeve. It’s tempting to buy the cheapest cover available and throw it away when you’re done. But you won’t mind the few extra minutes of cleanup time once you experience the difference a good roller cover makes. Cheap roller covers don’t hold enough paint to do a good job. It’ll take you four times as long to paint a room. And you’ll likely end up with an inconsistent layer of paint, lap marks and built-up ridges of paint. Instead, buy a 1/2-in.-nap wool blend roller cover and give it a try. With proper care, this may be the last roller cover you’ll ever buy.
Wool covers do have a few drawbacks, though. They tend to shed fibers when they’re first used. To minimize shedding, wrap the new roller cover with masking tape and peel it off to remove loose fibers. Repeat this a few times. Wool covers also tend to become matted down if you apply too much pressure while painting. Rolling demands a light touch. No matter what roller cover you’re using, always let the paint do the work. Keep the roller cover loaded with paint, and use only enough pressure to release and spread the paint. Pushing on the roller to squeeze out the last drop of paint will only cause problems.
Slap It On, Then Smooth It Out
When painting trim or other woodwork with a brush, I’ve found it’s best to load my brush with paint and then lay it on heavily in small sections using short, quick strokes—just to get enough paint on the trim to work with. I then blend the paint into the section I painted before and smooth it all out using long finishing strokes in one direction.
Brush Bristle Saver
Check out the tips on how to clean a paintbrush in the video below.
Cardboard Protects Floors Best
I don’t like drop cloths. They’re usually too big, slippery, clumsy and just downright messy—especially when I need to move them around while they’re still covered in wet paint. That’s why I prefer cardboard. I set it tight to the wall and slide it with my foot as I work my way around the room.
No-Maintenance Paint Tray
Don’t bother cleaning or putting liners in your paint trays. Just pour any excess paint back into the can and let the paint in the tray dry completely before using it again. I have paint trays with a 1/8-in.-thick paint buildup in them. I like them better than clean trays because they’re a little heavier and don’t slide around when I’m loading the roller.
2/3 Prep, 1/3 Painting
A good prep job often takes more time than painting, but it pays off. The more time you spend prepping a room for new paint, the better your finished paint job will look. Washing, patching, sanding and vacuuming walls, ceilings, trim and doors before you pick up a brush or roller are time well spent. If you don’t take care of small imperfections now, they’ll stick out like a sore thumb once the paint goes on.
Do the Ceiling, Then the Walls
Skip Brush Cleaning Between Coats
Whenever I take a break from painting or if I’m done for the day, I toss my brushes into a 5-gallon bucket of clean water to keep them from drying out (make sure all the brushes have the same color paint on them). Then, when I’m ready to start painting again, I swish the brushes around in the water and spin the excess out with a paintbrush-and-roller spinner. Do the spinning inside a second empty bucket to protect surrounding walls from flying water drops.