When a door binds, it almost always sticks along the latch side near the top. You can usually see the wear there. Check for loose screws in the top hinge plate. Tightening the screws may work for the short term, but they often come loose again because the original hole is stripped. Rather than trying to repair the hole in the wood, replace one of the loose screws with a longer one. The intent is to drive the new screw beyond the existing jamb and into the trimmer stud behind. In order to hit the stud, choose the screw hole closest to the stop (Photo 1); otherwise, the new screw will likely miss the stud altogether. Make sure the new screw is long enough to get through the jamb, the shim space and into the stud. A No. 8, 3-in. will usually do just fine.
If the door rubs on the latch-side bottom edge, look for fastener failure again. In most cases, the lower jamb has shifted or pulled loose from its nails, resulting in an out-of-plumb opening. To reset the jamb, pry away the bottom section of casing and renail the jamb (Photo 2). If there are no shims, install them if necessary to allow for a 1/8-in. gap between the closed door and the jamb. Then nail with 10d casing nails and tack the casing back into place.
If the door is binding along the entire length of the latch-side edge, and you’ve tried the first two solutions, the door has probably swollen from high seasonal humidity. First check to make sure all the edges are either painted or varnished.
When a door isn’t sealed on all four edges, moisture can enter and swell it as much as 1/4 in. so it will no longer close. If your door isn’t well sealed, wait for the dry season to see if it will shrink back to a good fit. Then seal it with a good primer/paint or stain/varnish combo.
If you want immediate results, you’ll have to remove the door from its hinges and plane or sand down the latch side, removing just enough material so that it can shut smoothly once again. Remove as little as possible to ensure a tight fit, then seal unfinished edges with paint or varnish.
To support the work, we used a clamping- style workbench to hold the door on end and adhered masking tape to the rubbing edge as a guide for the belt sander. You can substitute a hand or power planer for the belt sander, but the sander gives you better control over the amount of waste you remove. Once you rehang the door and are happy with the fit, reseal the sanded edge to keep out moisture.
If your home was built before 1978, the paint may contain lead, a hazardous material. Either have it tested (contact your local health department for testing labs) or follow safe scraping and sanding techniques recommended by your local building department. Dispose of the waste according to local regulations.
If a door doesn’t latch, either the door or the frame has shifted, resulting in the misalignment of the strike plate and strike, or bolt. The quickest and easiest solution is to file the strike plate.
An easy way to tell where the problem lies is to apply lipstick to the protruding bolt, then shut the door. The lipstick will mark the strike position onto the strike plate and show where it needs to be filed (Photo 4).
Once you reposition the strike plate, you may have to remove some wood behind it to allow the bolt to penetrate the jamb freely. If the misalignment is more than 1/8 in., shift the position of the strike plate in the jamb, rather than filing it.