Heat to the rescue
Heat, oil and tapping will unstick most nuts and bolts in metal. Apply only enough heat to cause expansion in the entire bolt. If the area is soaked with penetrant, spray it with nonflammable brake cleaner
to remove it before you apply heat. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Once you’ve
established that it’s safe, aim the flame at the bolt head or nut, not
the surrounding metal. Heat for about 15 seconds, but don’t get it cherry red.
Then spray the bolt head with water to cool it quickly. Continue spraying until it
no longer steams. The expansion/contraction cracks the rust, so add more rust
penetrant and let it soak in. Tap the end of the bolt a half dozen times with a hammer to help loosen the threads and allow the oil to penetrate. Wait another minute or so for the oil to work, and then use your wrench.
Get a grip on rounded bolt heads
When a bolt head has become so rounded that a wrench won’t get a bite, use a locking pliers. Get a tight grip: You may have only two or three chances before the head gets so rounded that even this won’t work. Use penetrating oil, heat and tapping if it slips after your first try.
Adjustable wrench technique for stuck fasteners
An adjustable wrench isn't the ideal tool for loosening stuck fasteners because it can round over the head, making matters worse. But if an adjustable wrench is your only option, here's your best shot at preserving the shoulders on the nut or bolt head: Slide on the wrench all the way, so there's full contact at the back of the jaws. Then tighten the wrench thumbscrew so there's no play at all in the jaws. Always turn the wrench handle toward the lower jaw, never away from it.
Pound a combo wrench
Sacrificing a Tool
It might seem sacrilegious to destroy a tool, but sometimes
working in narrow or confined spaces makes it necessary.
That’s where your grinder comes in. Use it to make
wrenches thinner and screwdrivers skinnier and to add tapers
to sockets so they fit into tight recesses. But this technique
comes with a warning. Grinding a tool compromises its integrity,
so take extra precautions when using it (wear goggles
and gloves). When you’re done, toss the modified tool and
get a new one—it’s no longer safe for use on other jobs.
Two ways to remove fasteners that have mangled slots
When the slot on a fastener is too damaged to insert the tip of a screwdriver, file down the sides so you can turn it with a wrench, or cut a new slot in the head with a hacksaw.
Cut off a fastener’s head
When there’s no other solution—when heat, penetrating oil and wrenches have all failed—cut off bolt heads or nuts with a hacksaw, reciprocating saw or or, better yet, a cutoff tool. Some smaller fasteners, especially rivets and flathead bolts, may be easier to drill out than to cut.
Pipe wrenches aren’t just for pipes
Be Gentle With Spark Plugs
If you snap off a spark plug or strip the
threads, you’ll have a real nightmare on your hands. So if a
plug shows any sign of seizing, stop and spray on rust penetrant.
Let it sit for at least 30 minutes and try to loosen it just a
one-eighth turn. Don’t get greedy and keep turning. Add more
penetrant and turn the plug in and out slightly to work penetrant
down into the threads. Saturate with penetrant and
tighten/loosen only an eighth of a turn at a time. Eventually,
it’ll start turning freely and you’ll be able to back it out.
Turn a sticking screw
A wrench on a screwdriver blade will help beat that big screw that won't budge. First select the largest screwdriver that'll fit, and tap the butt of the screwdriver handle with a hammer to loosen the thread bond. Lean your weight onto the screwdriver to keep it in the slot as you turn it with the wrench. Careful—too much torque will bend the screwdriver tip.
Use a Cheater Bar (and the Right Socket)
Be a cheater by slipping a short length of pipe—a cheater bar—over the end of your tool handle. The extra length gives you major-league leverage. Be careful, though, not to use so much force that you break the tool or break the head off the shank of the bolt.
And since we're talking about force, a word here about sockets: You'll find that six-point sockets get a better grip on hex nuts and bolts than garden variety 12-point sockets, which are designed to fit both hex and square fasteners.
The cheater bar technique can exceed the design strength of the tool, cause it to break and void the tool warranty, wear eye protection.
How to split a nut
You may not need a nut splitter very often. But when you run into a situation where you can’t reach
a bolt head to prevent it from turning, a nut splitter can sometimes save the day. Just
slip the tool over the nut and center the chisel end (of the nut splitter) on a nut flat. Hand-tighten the chisel before cranking on it with a ratchet and socket. Continue turning
the ratchet until you hear a loud “crack,” and the hard work is done. Of course, then you
have to run to the store to buy a new nut. But least you can complete the repair without
having to resort to nuclear weaponry.
Buy a nut splitter at any auto parts store or at an online tool seller.
(One example is the
TEKTON 7580 Nut Splitter Set available through our affiliation with amazon.com.)
Use a screw extractor
A screw extractor could save your day. It will grab just about any threaded fastener and remove it—even if the head has snapped off. It usually comes with a hardened drill bit to drill a hole in the center of your stubborn screw or bolt. Then you turn the extractor counterclockwise into the hole. Because of its tapered shape and left hand thread, the extractor will jam in the hole and then begin to turn out the screw. It's available at hardware stores and home centers.
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Use an impact driver
An impact driver works with a bladed or Phillips head screwdriver bit, or a socket head. Striking the tool does three things at once: The blow loosens the thread bond; the downward force keeps the tool in the slot; and the head of the tool turns 20 degrees in the loosening direction. Make sure the screw slot is clean and free of debris. Find it at Sears.com and home centers.