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Tool Tips: The Editor's Favorites
The Editor-in-Chief of The Family Handyman shares tips from the many pros he's worked with and from his own years of woodworking and home improvement.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

Years of tips

I started working at this magazine 24 years ago, moonlighting from my day job as a cabinetmaker. In the years since, I’ve hung around with builders, remodelers, plumbers, electricians, painters, tree trimmers, carpet cleaners—pros from just about any trade you could name. I’ve seen more tool tips than I can remember. But some stand out in my mind because they’ve changed the way I work. They may not be the best tips of all time, but they are the best to me. Here are a few of them, and I hope one or two make a difference in your DIY life.

Ken Collier
editors@thefamilyhandyman.com

Sanding doesn't have to be dusty

I'm finally a convert to tool belts

OK, go ahead and laugh, carpenters. I’m used to wearing a shop apron, and it took me years to become a convert to the tool belt. Now I feel naked if I’m working on my house without it. I’ve probably saved enough steps to walk to China, just by having the basic tools right at hand.

We all have our own system for organizing a tool belt, but one basic idea is almost universal: Have tools used by your dominant hand (right for most of us) on that side, and fasteners and tools used by your “helper” hand on the other side. Hammer on the right, nails on the left. Pencils on the right, square on the left. Other way around if you’re a leftie.

The basic tools I keep in my belt are shown in the photo. Here are a few more tips:

  • I like to keep a voltage sniffer permanently in my tool belt. If it’s always there, I actually remember to use it. Usually.
  • Ditto safety glasses and ear plugs, which ride around the small of my back in a sunglasses pouch I got at REI (my favorite camping store).
  • I keep one small pocket as my “garbage can.” Bent or pulled nails, stripped screws and other junk go in there so they don’t get stepped on or mixed up with good fasteners.
  • An Altoids box is the perfect home for drill bits, driver bits, countersinks, etc. It’s just the right size and won’t break.

My Old-Guy Belt

Twenty years ago I injured my back. Got a padded belt for my tool pouches (see tool belt photo above). Ain’t NEVER goin’ back! (Padded belts are available at Amazon.com.) Try it. Even the young bucks wear them when they’re carrying around a truckload of tools.

For soup and router bases, homemade is better

Get a chunk of 1/4-in. acrylic at any home center and learn to make replacement bases for your router. You’ll never look back. I keep large square ones on my routers at all times; they’re more stable and more accurate than the factory one for pushing along a straightedge. You can make jigs, like the one shown in the photo, which is for trimming solid wood edging flush with the plywood. (The base only goes under half the router and has a handle for holding it flush.) Another trick is to make the base out of a long strip, put a pivot hole in it and rout circles. I’ve made curved windows and moldings that way. Or you can turn the plate over and drop it into a router table. You’ll find dozens of good uses for them. To make a base plate, remove the base plate from your router, clamp it to your piece of acrylic and use a Vix bit (a self-centering bit) to drill the screw holes so they’re perfectly aligned. Then countersink the holes.

New to Plastics?

Here's a tip: To smooth the sharp edges, lightly play the flame of a propane torch along the edge, just barely enough to melt the plastic. It's 10 times faster than sanding!

Scrap-wood cord reels

Cord connection

Cord connection

Best Tool Tip Ever?

Old as the hills, used by every pro, and you probably know it. If you don't, you should! Here goes: Keep extension cords from coming undone by connecting them with an overhand knot.

Glove love

Two decades of working in an office have made me a softie when it comes to my hands. I also live in Minnesota, where you need gloves (or mittens) nine months of the year if you’re working outside. Here are some of my favorites (left to right in the photo).

Modern high-tech work gloves, with enough dexterity to pick up a finish nail. These live in my tool belt. Mine are Mechanix Wear (available at Amazon.com), though there are other good brands. They can set you back $25 or more, but they’re true power tools for your hands.

Insulated pigskin gloves. The pigskin stays soft after it’s been wet, and the cloth back helps them breathe in cold weather. Mine are by Kinco (available at Amazon.com), and I wear them all winter long. They’re tough. My dogsledding friends use the same gloves for mushing. ’Nuff said.

Rubber and knit gloves. These rubber gloves give you a great grip on wet or slippery stuff. Good for mucky yard work and plumbing. Want tougher yet? Get the same style in nitrile. Mine are Atlas brand (available at Amazon.com) and cost only a few bucks.

Cheap gray work gloves. Semidisposable for rough work with concrete block, metal, firewood, etc. Basic go-to gloves, for about $1 a pair. What other great tool can you get for a buck? When they get torn up, I cut any still-good fingers off and use them to protect chisels and other sharp tools.

Goatskin TIG welding gloves. The combination of dexterity and resistance to sparks is unmatched, at least for $10. Very comfortable gloves for metalworking. Get them online or at a welding supplier.

Bright lights are my best friend

Basic but beautiful stop block

Miter gauge for super-precision

I love my big honkin’ sliding miter saw. But when it’s perfect cuts I want, I go to the miter gauge on my table saw. Call me old-school, but properly set up, it gives me surgically precise results.

Here are my three best tips:

Get the bar to fit right. Loose enough to slide, but no wiggle. If the fit is sloppy, make a dimple on the edge of the bar with a punch. It works for a couple of months until the dimple wears down. Or buy an aluminum miter bar from a woodworking supplier.

Use an extension fence. The kerf from the blade shows you exactly where the cut will be, and you can clamp to it. I sometimes attach stickyback sandpaper to it, which prevents boards from creeping, especially when cutting angles.

Keep a separate miter gauge just for 90-degree cuts. Once you’ve got it dialed in, don’t touch it! It’s a delight to cut totally reliable right angles without any setup. A second miter gauge can cost $35 to $70 from the usual suspects: Rockler , Woodcraft , Amazon, etc.

Dirt-cheap flip-up stop

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Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

    • Clamps
    • Extension cord
    • Orbital sander
    • Router
    • Shop vacuum
    • Tool belt
    • Table saw

You'll also need gloves, a miter gauge, a padded belt for your tool belt, extra vacuum hose and shop lights.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.

    • Sandpaper
    • 1/4-in. acrylic
    • Plywood and wood scraps
    • Small hinge

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