Tip 1: Set cabinets on a platform
Most lower cabinets include a base or toe-kick that raises them off the floor.
But Ken doesn't build them that way. Instead, he builds a plywood platform
that acts as the base for an entire row of cabinets. The platform can be under-
sized to allow for a toe space or full size for a more traditional look (as shown
This approach has a couple of major advantages. First, cabinet construction
is simpler. The cabinets are just boxes; no extended sides to form a base, no
toe-kick cutouts. Second, installation is faster. Leveling one platform is a lot
easier than positioning each cabinet individually. Ken sets the box 1/4 in.
from walls to allow for wavy or out-of-plumb walls.
Tip 2: Quick, classic side panels
When the side of a cabinet box will be exposed, you have to hide the
cabinet back's edge somehow. The usual method is to rabbet the side
and recess the back. But Ken gets a richer look with less hassle. He
simply glues and nails the back to the cabinet box and hides the
exposed plywood with a frame and panel for a classic look. And since
the cover panel is a separate part, it's easy to scribe it to the wall before
fastening it to the cabinet.
Tip 3: Secret screws for shelves
Lots of designs have upper shelf units that rest on lower cabinets.
Here's Ken's trick for fastening the shelf units to the cabinet top so that
the screws are hidden: He sets the cabinet top on the lower cabinets
and scribes it and sands it to fit the wall. But he doesn't screw it in
place yet. Instead, he positions the shelf units on the top and carefully slides the top forward just far enough so that he can drive screws into the shelf sides and dividers. After sliding the top back into place, he screws the top to the cabinets from below and screws the shelf units
to the wall.
Tip 4: Back-bevel wall stiles
Before scribing stiles
that will meet walls,
bevel the back edge on
your table saw. That
way, you'll have less
wood to belt-sand off
when you shape the
edge to the contour of
the wall. Ken cuts a
45-degree bevel about
1/2 in. deep, so he has
only 1/4 in. of wood
Tip 5: Break down face frames
Pocket screws are a standard joinery method, but Ken has a nonstandard approach. He assembles face frames with pocket screws, but
without glue. He sands the frames, labels the back of each part and
then disassembles them for easier finishing. Transport is easier too:
Ken can pack a mile of face frame parts into his van and carry them
into the house without banging up walls. The cabinet boxes need less
TLC too, since they're frameless during transport. Once on-site, Ken
reassembles the frames with pocket screws and glue. For pocket joinery, Ken uses a Kreg Jig.
Tip 6: Thicker backs save time
Most cabinetmakers use 1/4-in. plywood for
cabinet backs. But Ken prefers 1/2-in. material. The thicker plywood usually adds only a few bucks to the cost of each box and eliminates
the need for a hanging strip or “nailer” at the
back of the cabinet. That means quicker construction and a cleaner interior
look. Best of all, it allows you to drive a screw through the back anywhere,
not just at the nailer.
Back to Top
Tip 7: Use prefinished plywood (sometimes)
With its tough, flawless
clearcoat, prefinished ply-
wood eliminates finishing
hassles. But Ken uses it only
for “no-show” parts like cabinet boxes and shelves.
Finishing other parts to
match the color and sheen of
the factory-finished plywood
is just too difficult.
Finding prefinished ply-
wood can be difficult. Your
best bet is a lumberyard that
caters to cabinetmakers.