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September 01, 8:25 PM [GMT -5]
I found that if you use 47deg angles on both ends of the rear legs all other measurements will fall into place. Tried 43deg and would have had to adjust seat support lengths to make it work.
Nice project made mine out of Select Pine for an indoor application, also pocketed all exposed screws as suggested, bought plug cutter so I could use same stock it was constructed with. Did not want Ladies with fine fabrics getting snags from the bench seat , more work but functionality and appearance is well worth it.
June 17, 11:06 AM [GMT -5]
It is from the May 2004 issue.
June 15, 7:55 PM [GMT -5]
Which back issue of your magazine was this Adirondack chair in?
May 19, 7:18 PM [GMT -5]
I am working on the project. I have laid out the front leg, rear leg and the horizontal arm support on a table and it appears the rear leg is about an inch too short. I cut the 43 and 47 angles on a mite saw, but the pieces don't line up square. I have altered the pattern making the seat 2 inches longer, but did not change the front and rear legs. I will remeasure everything to make sure I am right on this. Most likely will make the rear leg long enough to square this chair up. I would like to hear if anyone had similar experiences.
January 03, 1:36 PM [GMT -5]
I built the chair and have plans for the love seat next
I used wood from a pallets
my only cost was the screws
September 03, 9:45 AM [GMT -5]
Riderhealy, was making a rocker version difficult? How did you make the rails? I've been looking at my Adirondack chairs trying to figure out how to convert them to rockers.
June 09, 3:51 PM [GMT -5]
WOW, I think you are either a very brave man or an experienced woodworker to buy $200.00 worth of materials to build one chair. Of the four I have built so far, three are pine from an old crate and one was P/T wood. I painted one of the pine chairs, (which by the way I made "bar stool" height), and sealed the other two with several coats of clear poly. Mine are under a covered porch, so longevity is extended. I have no problem with splinters in the P/T wood chair. I love the finished look of Mahogany with a clear finish, I'm sure it's a beautiful chair. I would agree with you, $100 for labor is fair. Not sure what you mean by replacement $200.00
May 28, 1:36 PM [GMT -5]
I've had fun and had some zen like therapy in the garage building this chair. This is my first project.
For the seat brace template, I drew a grid on the wood itself and then I used the seat brace pattern on the piece of wood. Then i cut it out and used it to trace the pattern on the other pieces of wood. I am keeping one for future chairs that I will build
Calculating the amount of wood was probably the most stressful for me. I wanted to be efficient and not waste wood. There is a great metric woodcut calculator that i used:
I then had to convert it to standard units and figure out the best way to transport the wood home. I ended up folding the rear seats down and the front passenger and stuck the wood through. I wish I had a truck.
If my notes are right, I used 6ft boards:
4 5 1/2
6 3 1/2
2 1 1/2
4 2 1/2
May 08, 2:08 PM [GMT -5]
I built 1 Adirondack chair out of mahogany wood. ( the 1st two I built were out of pine)
they come out great. I would not use p/t wood for splinters. The pine chairs are nice but, won't last as long or as sturdy as the Mahogany chairs.
The wood and screws cost almost $200.00 for the mahogany chairs but, well worth the cost.
My question is if I sell them I would sell for-
$200 for the wood
200 for replacement
100 for labor
$500.00 ea. Sure is a lot of money, what do you think...
April 27, 5:52 PM [GMT -5]
OOPS, it's been a while since I built a chair and I made a mistake in my comment about the seat brace. To make a sheet of graph with one inch squares I drew out my own on a large sheet of paper and made it 19" long.
April 27, 5:01 PM [GMT -5]
I wish I had seen your question about making a full size pattern for the seat brace. If you notice the pattern is laid out on one inch square graph paper. You can use regular graph paper which is laid out with 1/4" squares. The pattern can be made with one sheet by using one end of the paper as the starting point. If it is easier for you, you can make an outline on the graph paper in one inch squares. The seat brace is made from 5-1/2" material. If you look carefully, you will notice where the curve begins and by watching the squares and measuring you can closely duplicate the pattern to full size. Don't stress out about it too much, as long as you get it close the chair will be comfortable. And as for the bottom side of the brace, it's largely cosmetic. I hope this helps
March 10, 5:35 AM [GMT -5]
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE add the CUT LIST to this article.
February 14, 2:19 PM [GMT -5]
OK - this is probably a silly question, but how do you get that seat brace pattern template into realtime size? Or, are you just supposed to free-hand it on real size paper?
December 25, 6:32 AM [GMT -5]
If you haven't found it yet, the Cutting list can be found by clicking on the "Step by Step" tab and scrolling to the bottom. Good luck with your project.
November 29, 7:55 PM [GMT -5]
Hey, at Home Depot they had 3/4" * 5.5" * 72" dog-ear pressure-treated fence pickets for about $1.50 each...so I basically made this chair for about $12.00 in wood...of course screws and stain about doubled that--but it looks awesome!
November 22, 1:42 PM [GMT -5]
I saw some areas where I would use Kreg Jig Pocket holes to make the screws are less visible.and not able to snag clothing. Any holes I were to predrill pilot holes I would countersink for a clean appearance.
November 08, 10:35 AM [GMT -5]
Does anyone know where the cut list is?
August 07, 8:32 PM [GMT -5]
I just completed my first Adirondack Chair and I am very pleased with the results. A few of my thoughts. I liked the idea of using 5/4 so I made the arms, seat slats and back pieces out of 5/4. For the seat pieces I ripped a 5/4 X 6 down the middle and eased the edges with my block plane. I screwed mine with no space in between and it looks fine. On the back I used the called for 1/4 inch space. I got a bid distracted by the "leg angle" controversy. I know the plans called for a 90 degree arm/front leg positioning. The plans said cut the top of the leg 43 degrees and the bottom 47, which equals 90. Okay I understand that. I was tempted to cut mine 45 degrees at top and bottom but didn't want to risk it so this was my solution. I sat the front leg on the work bench and leveled it, then with the back leg attached I plumbed up from the bottom of the front leg and marked my cut. Kinda like a plumb cut of a rafter tail. If anyone has any input on the leg situation, I will be checking back and looking forward to seeing what others did. Bottom line: great plans and the chair is fantastic. It must be a modified version of the standard Adirondack Chair because it sits a bit higher and is quite easy tom get up and out of. I remember them as a bit of a low sitting chair, this one is not. I am already planning to make another next weekend. Much thanks to the Family Handyman for this wonderful project!
July 01, 9:18 PM [GMT -5]
I made the Loveseat with wood I recycled from past projects in my shop and it has turned out beautifully. However, I ran into a problem with the rear legs. The angles given for the top and bottom should be the same. I used 43 degrees. Refer to this website: http://www.mathnstuff.com/math/spoken/here/2class/260/trans.htm
Thank you for sharing these plans, I look forward to making another soon.
June 21, 11:14 PM [GMT -5]
I have made and even sold many of these chairs and benches. I've modified the chair plans to make rockers and the bench plans to make swings as well. A few adjustments and 5/4 deck boards make very nice looking chairs. I've even made a few out of cypress that I get from a local saw mill.
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