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How to Install Fiberglass Batt Insulation

Fiberglass batts are the cheapest, easiest way to insulate new walls. However, they're often installed poorly — and even small gaps can reduce efficiency as much as 25 percent. In this article, we'll show you how to avoid those mistakes, how to cut and fit fiberglass batts and how to work around electrical outlets and cables.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

How to Install Fiberglass Batt Insulation

Fiberglass batts are the cheapest, easiest way to insulate new walls. However, they're often installed poorly — and even small gaps can reduce efficiency as much as 25 percent. In this article, we'll show you how to avoid those mistakes, how to cut and fit fiberglass batts and how to work around electrical outlets and cables.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

Fill all voids

The key to a quality insulating job is tight-fitting batts that completely fill the stud cavity with no voids or gaps. You can do top-quality work with only a few basic tools. You'll need a utility knife with a good supply of sharp blades, a tape measure and a straightedge, and a 3- or 4-in. putty knife for stuffing insulation around doors and windows. Fiberglass can irritate your throat and skin, so wear protective gear. Buy a two-strap mask rated for fiberglass insulation (look for N-95 rating) and wear a hat, gloves, a long-sleeve shirt and goggles to keep fibers out of your eyes.

Fit batts tightly around electrical cables and boxes

Running a full batt in front of electrical cables leaves an uninsulated space behind. Avoid this by splitting the batt as shown. Then when you come to an electrical box, trim the insulation to fit snugly around it. Run your knife blade against the outside of the box to guide the cut. But don't cut too deep or you risk nicking the wires. If you have plumbing pipes on an outside wall, insulate behind them, but leave the side facing the interior uncovered to allow heat from the house to keep the pipes warm.

Fit first, then cut to length

We're using unfaced batts that are sized to friction-fit into standard stud spaces (either 16-in. or 24-in. on-center studs). They're also available precut to lengths that fit standard 8-ft. and 9-ft. walls. Buying precut batts eliminates some work, but you'll still have to cut some batts to length. You could measure the space and cut the batt to fit, but a quicker method that's just as accurate is shown below. Leave an extra 1/2 in. of length for a snug fit.

We're using unfaced batts because they're easier to cut and install. In most climates, you'll have to staple 4-mil plastic sheeting over the batts to form a vapor barrier. Check with your local building inspector for the recommended practice in your area.

Trim batts in place

Accurate cutting is essential(actually, slightly oversized batts are best). A batt cut too small leaves gaps and one cut too large bunches up and leaves voids.

The photos show two methods of cutting batts to width. If you're having trouble getting an accurate cut with the “eyeballing” technique, measure the width of the stud space and use the straightedge method instead. Add about 1/2 in. to the width to ensure a tight fit. It's better to compress the batts a little than to leave gaps. Don't worry if the batts bulge out a bit. The drywall will compress them tightly.

Fill gaps around windows and doors

The shim space around windows and doors is a prime spot for air leakage. Stop these leaks by reaching to the back of this space with the straw-type nozzle included with a can of expanding foam insulation and applying a bead around the perimeter. Let it cure at least an hour before stuffing the remaining space with a thin strip of fiberglass. Don't pack the fiberglass too tight or it will bow the jambs and cause trouble with the operation of the window.

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Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

    • Dust mask
    • Straightedge
    • Safety glasses
    • Utility knife
    • Taping knife

Gloves

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.

    • Insulation to fit depth of stud cavity

Comments from DIY Community Members

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1 - 5 of 5 comments
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February 04, 6:21 PM [GMT -5]

I am 74 yo female. In the spring (March), I plan to insulate the attic in my apartment (with permission). I know that I need to avoid completely blocking the air flow at the edges of the attic, but this article never mentions that or talks about leaving a space around vents, etc. I live in central Ohio. My income tax check will buy the insulation and I will install. Any additional info you can provide will help.

Luc

August 18, 12:11 AM [GMT -5]

Excellent artical. Do I need to add 4-mil poly vaper retarder in the attic above the garage on top the drywall?

Luc

August 18, 12:11 AM [GMT -5]

Excellent artical. Do I need to add 4-mil poly vaper retarder in the attic above the garage on top the drywall?

May 13, 6:57 PM [GMT -5]

Contractually we write that if the home is insulated with just fiberglass
-even properly-
a GeoThermal ground loop will be 12% larger and the GT system will be 1/4 - 1/2 ton larger to off set the additional heat loss over
sprayed cellulose or 3" iso foam...

that increases HVAC investments by ~ 2000 to 2200

(since 1991, northern OH and PA) GT since 1980

www.sonfishdesign.com/geopros

April 26, 8:59 PM [GMT -5]

Good advice.

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