Cedar Vertical Tiered Ladder Garden Planter
build your own ladder garden planter - free plans from ana-white.com Follow Ana on Pinterest! About Project Author Notes: Hi everyone! Do you remember my friend Jen, who built this planter last week? Jen is a beginning builder, and will be working with me on beginner projects that are less expensive, easy, but still tons of fun! We are both so excited to debut a brand new plan today - a vertical garden ladder planter! It's perfect for small backyards or even a tiny patio or balcony. Even if you live in a small apartment in the city, you can still get your garden on! The total cost of this planter ladder was about $20 - compared to $239 for this one with just three tiers! I've asked Jen to share her tips and challenges as she built this tiered ladder planter - here's from Jen: ---- After the last project I couldn't wait to get started on this one. Another simple build with great results! What I like about this is it could be used as a regular flower planter, an herb planter, or as I did with herbs and flowers to mix it up a little. I got right to work and got all cuts done and layed out. Then I started attaching with the handy Ryobi AirStrike staple gun. Did I mention I love that thing! I'm pretty sure it's my new best friend - quick and easy, that's how I like it! The compound miter saw is great for the angled cuts. I needed 10 of the end pieces at 15 degrees off square, not parallel. Instead of adjusting the miter from side to side I simply made my first end cut, then used it as a template to mark the rest of the boards as I cut. Then all I needed to do instead of adjusting the saw is flip the board each time I cut. It worked much better than how I invisioned it would in my head. Once I had all the end pieces cut, I attached them to the sides with the staple gun. After that I measured my opening and cut the bottom pieces as I went I shoved them in from the top, and there were my five boxes done. I shot a few staples for extra hold on the bottom pieces from the outside of each box. Now for the frame. I was a little intimidated by the top cut, but my saw was already set to 15 degrees, so I just wacked the ends off parallel as directed in the cut list. Then I used a carpenters square to cut the back off the tops, perpendicular to the 15 degree top cut. It sounds complicated but it actually is easy. TIP: If you don't have a carpenter's square, just use a scrap of wood or even a hardcover book. I didn't have a circular saw, so decided to use the jig saw to cut this part. I haven't really used a jig saw before, but all and all it went pretty well. I just took my time and was sure to stay on the outside edge of the line I had drawn. I won't like, the first cut wasn't perfect, but it worked. After the first upright was cut, I used it to trace the line on the second board. Then, once again, used the jig saw to cut on the traced line. This time it went even better. Practice makes perfect! Now came the time to attach the boxes to the frame. I started from the top and worked my way down. I marked my starting point on both uprights at the same time for consistency. Then I screwed the box to one leg from the inside of the box, then placed the other leg and did the same. First box down! Now I had a starting point for the rest of the boxes. So I cut a spacer at 6 inches (see photo below) to make the placing easier. Be sure to keep the spacer at an angle to follow the line of the first box attached. Once I had it placed I screwed the second box from the inside of the box to the frame, and so on and so forth with the rest of the boxes. It made it easier to turn the frame on its side to place the screws. Clamps are your friend here if you don't have an extra hand. Now all I had to do was stand it up, and there was the finished product, a beautiful versatile vertical planter! Be sure to drill holes in the bottom of each box to allow for drainage . I drilled after it was all attached, but you could do it after building the boxes before attaching them to the frame. Now it was time to plant it! I showed my mother-in-law the planter and she loved it, so I decided it would look great in her back yard. So off we went to get some flowers and herbs. Turned out pretty well if you ask me! It's amazing what you can build with $20 bucks in lumber in a couple of hours! I hope you have as much fun building this as I did! --- Thanks Jen! Of course, plans follow - please share your finished planter with us if you build!!! XO Ana + Family Materials and Tools Shopping List: 5 - 5-1/2" wide cedar fence pickets (dogeared is fine) 72" length 2 - 10' long 2x6 20 - 2-1/2" long exterior decking screws (for attaching boxes to legs) 1-1/4" galvanized nails or staples (for making boxes) Tools: measuring tape square pencil safety glasses hearing protection drill jigsaw compound miter saw staple gun Cut List Cut List: 10 - 2x6 @ 5-1/4" both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel 10 - 5-1/2" wide cedar fence pickets @ 23-1/2" 5 - 5-1/2" wide cedar fence pickets @ 20-1/2" (cut to fit) 2 - 2x6 @ 68-3/8" both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel Step 1 Attach two of the longer cedar fence picket pieces to two ends. I used 1-1/4" galvanized staples, but you could also use screws or nails. Step 2 I placed the bottoms in from the top, and then added a few staples to keep them in place. Step 3 The sides are simply cut with ends parallel at 15 degrees, then the back is cut off perpendicular to the top 15 degree cut. It's easier than you'd think. I used a jigsaw but the right tool would have been a circular saw. Start your cut on the top as you will have more to bit into. Step 4 Mark the placement of the top planter on both legs first to make sure you place the planter in exactly the same spot on both legs. Then I attached from inside with 2-1/2" exterior decking screws. The 2x6s I used were very hard to drill into, so I ended up predrilling as well. Step 5 Then I used the spacer block (just a scrap piece of wood) cut at 6" long to help me space the planters as I attached them. Finishing Instructions Preparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.