Pipe and Wood Slat Bed
tutorial for industrial pipe bed from Ana-White.com Follow Ana on Pinterest! About Project Author Notes: Happy Friday Folks! I can't tell you how excited today to share these brand spanking hot off the press plans with you today!!! My dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter wanted to collaborate on a industrial style bed for her son's room, so we hatched a plan involving screw together iron pipes and wood slats. And this is what Jaime came up with! What could be better than a bed made of iron pipes ? Why one with some wood mixed in too! This is truly a one-of-a-kind unique piece, that you can only get by DIY-ing! Are you smitten or what??? Jaime has been so generous to share these plans with you below - seriously, this one really is all her and her step by step instructions are meticulously detailed - so please, take a sec to stop over and check out her building post and say THANK YOU for this awesome tute! Thanks Jaime !!! Plans follow! Have a great weekend. XO Ana + FAM Materials and Tools Shopping List: Shopping List 2 – 1x8x8 pine boards 1 – 1x8x6 pine board 2 – 2x4x8 studs 8 – 1x3x8 furring strips 2” wood screws 1 ½” wood screws ALL GALVANIZED STEEL: *2 – 1” pipe @ 75”l *4 – 1” pipe @ 18”l 5 – ¾” pipe @ 36”l 14 – 1” nipple @ 8”l 4 – 1” close nipple 14 – 1” threaded tee 4 – 1” 90 degree elbow 4 – 1” x 1 ¼” coupling (feet) 2 – 1” threaded coupling 10 – 1” x ¾” bushing 20 – 1” split ring pipe hanger http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cramik-Enterprises-1-in-Galvanized-Split-Ring... *cut to length and threaded at hardware store Tools: measuring tape square pencil Cut List Cut List: WOOD CUT LIST 5 – 1x8 @ 37 ¾”l (wood slats) 2 – 2x4 @ 74”l (platform supports) 16 – 1x3 furring @ 41 ¼”l (mattress supports) Step 1 Notes: No glue was used on any pipes or pipe -to-wood connections. Only hand tighten until your are confident of pipe placement, it took me multiple tries to get it all connected just right – lots of screwing and unscrewing to figure out the proper connections - but that’s the beauty of working with pipe . The most difficult portion will be connecting the siderails to the footboard and headboard since the pipe screws together in the same direction on both ends (if you’re screwing in one end essentially you are unscrewing the other end simultaneously). Follow the step by step instructions carefully. Step 2 Build only one leg of the footboard as shown by screwing the pieces together until snug. Step 3 Prepare horizontal pipe support pieces as shown. Step 4 Prepare ONLY the foot portion of the other leg (1 x ¼ coupling, 1” x 8” nipple and 1” threaded tee) and connect 1” x 75”l pipe to this foot portion only. Step 5 Connect other 1” x 75” siderail pipe to completed leg of footboard. Repeat this process (steps 2 – 4) for the headboard adding one more tee and 1” x 8” nipple into leg build to create space for 3 slats. Prepare one more ¾” horizontal pipe section as well. ATTACHING THE SIDERAILS: BE SURE TO ATTACH THE COMPLETED LEG OF THE HEADBOARD TO THE FOOT PORTION ONLY OF THE FOOTBOARD and COMPLETED LEG OF FOOTBOARD TO THE FOOT PORTION ONLY OF HEADBOARD. This will enable you to screw siderails in completely by spinning the foot portion on the opposing corners. At both the footboard and headboard connect one horizontal ¾” pipe support piece to 2nd tee from bottom on completed leg then add one tee to open end of horizontal support pipe piece. At both the footboard and headboard use the 1” close nipple connect the open tee from the horizontal pipe section with the tee from the foot portion only: (Now you should have a sturdy completed rectangle bed shape.) Step 6 Prepare wood slats. Predrill 1 ½” from outer edge for 2 split ring pipe hangers. Step 7 Attach pipe hangers using 2” wood screws, be sure hanger is perpendicular to wood board Step 8 On the footboard slip one end of wood slat into completed leg side of footboard then with other end of wood slat in place screw in the next 1” x 8” nipple pipe piece. DO NOT TIGHTEN PIPE HANGERS YET. Step 9 Screw on next tee piece then screw next ¾” horizontal support pipe piece: • Tip: screw horizontal pipe all the way into the completed leg side first then connect to other leg. It’s a give and take with the horizontal pipes and bushing pieces because they all screw in the same direction, eventually they will get tight just keep working back and forth from one side to the other. • The paper towel wrapped around the joint is preventing oil from dripping onto the floor. (The ¾” x 36” pipe is a stock item but my Home Depot was out at the time therefore I had to have those pieces cut, when they cut the pipe they use a thick dark oil which seeps a bit once settled.) Step 10 Center wood slat between horizontal pipes with even spacing on both top and bottom then secure pipe hangers to pipes with equal pressure on both screws. Step 11 Prepare the next wood slat and repeat the process adding another 1” x 8” nipple. On top of the nipple screw in one 90 degree elbow. On the open end of the elbow screw in one 18” piece of 1” pipe and on the completed leg side screw in the other 18” pipe with a coupling. Tighten the pipe hangers and screw together the middle portion of the coupling and pipe . (headboard pictured above but we’re finishing the footboard) REPEAT steps 8 – 11 for the headboard. Step 13 Add mattress and bedding! For more pics, info and details, please take a second to visit Jaime at That's My Letter. Finishing Instructions Preparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.