Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall
DIY Kitchen wall cabinet plans by ana-white.com Follow Ana on Pinterest! About Project Author Notes: It took great thought, time and careful planning to build this here cabinet. Yes, we sure did spend hours considering exactly how "off" we should build the face frame from the carcass. Not only is the carcass several inches too tall, the face frame is an extra inch wide. Many hours. Of careful planning. To get this cabinet built just right. And we are so proud of it! Here's why. In the corner of this kitchen, there is a return air duct smack dab where the top of the kitchen cabinet would go. We'd have to move the air duct to fit a cabinet in there that matched the rest of the cabinets. Or we'd have to build a wonky cabinet around the air duct. If it's a choice of doing drywall or making sawdust, well, that's a no brainer. We'll take the sawdust. So we decided to make the carcass of the cabinet as tall as the ceiling height to allow the air duct to fit inside the cabinet, BUT keep the face frame the same height as the neighboring cabinets for consistency. Since this cabinet is in a corner, we also used a 1x3 at the left edge to tie into the neighboring cabinet at 90 degrees. We cut a hole out in the back of the cabinet for the air duct, and hung the cabinet. Then we blocked on top of the cabinet with 3/4" material (in the open space above the face frame) And also added blocking for all the other cabinets to support our crown moulding (it's not actually crown, it's the same stuff we used for our window and door headers , flat on the back side). Then we just cut the crown and fit it, Nailed it up, And you'd never know that this cabinet actually at one point looked like we'd forgotten how to read a tape measure. I'm sharing with you the plans for an open 36" wall cabinet below, but just in case you find yourself in a corner with a duct in the way, here's the mods we made: Enjoy the plans following! XO Ana + Family Materials and Tools Shopping List: 3/4" plywood (18 linear feet) ripped into depth of cabinet (we did 10-1/4" but you can choose any width just make sure the width is consistent from cabinet to cabinet) 1/2 sheet of 1/4" plywood scrap plywood piece for top support/hanging cabinet 3 feet of 1x3s 8 feet of 1x2s 1-1/4" nails for attaching face frame (unless you use pocket holes) or fixed shelves 3/4" nails for attaching back Glue 1-1/4" pocket holes for building and attaching frame shelf pins if you use adjustable shelves edge banding for front edges of shelves Tools: measuring tape square pencil safety glasses hearing protection Kreg Jig™ drill compound miter saw table saw nailer Cut List Cut List: 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" (or your rip width) x 30" (sides) 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" (or your rip width) x 34" (top and bottom) 1 - 3/4" plywood or 1x4 @ 34" (can be different width, this piece is just used for hanging on wall) 1 - 1/4" plywood 30" x 35-1/2" (back) FACE FRAME 1 - 1x3 @ 36" 1- 1x2 @ 36" 2 - 1x2 @ 26" SHELVES Fixed with front edgebanding - cut 36" long and trim front edge back 1/8" for edge banding Adjustable with front edgebanding - cut 35-3/4" long and trim front edge back 1/8" for edge banding Step 1 Build your carcass by attaching top and bottom to sides. Remember to keep all pocket holes on outsides - the neighboring cabinets or end panels will finish out outsides when you install your kitchen. TIP: Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward along all top, bottom and side edges for attaching face frame in later steps. Step 2 You'll need something for hanging the cabinet on the wall. We use scraps from the carcass plywood (but you could use a 1x4 here too) attached from the back with pocket holes. Step 3 Attach back with nails and glue. We use 3/4" nails. Step 4 Build the face frame first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach through the pocket holes you drilled in step 1 with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The face frame will overhang the sides by 1/4", but is flush to top and bottom of sides. Step 5 For fixed shelves, nail or staple in place from outsides (don't do pocket holes, they will be visible from underneath). For adjustable shelves, drill shelf pin holes. The shelves should be cut to width for fixed shelves, but trim off 1/8" on front for edgebanding and apply the edge banding. For adjustable shelves, trim off 1/4" in overall length so the shelves are easy to place inside, and 1/8" on front edge for edge banding. Apply edge banding to front of shelves. Step 6 Hang cabinet through top back support to studs in walls. Finishing Instructions Preparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.