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Cabinet Construction

  1. Building Cabinets With Biscuit Joints

    Biscuit joiners allow you to make solid precise joints, accurate enough to build fine cabinets. We show you the three key techniques you need to know—joints at right angles, joints in narrow materials and joints in thin materials.

Other Projects for DIYers from The Family Handyman:

  1. Building Cabinets With Pocket Screws

    Project

    Pocket screws let you assemble perfect, indestructible cabinet joints without expensive woodworking tools or complicated jigs—a huge leap forward for beginning woodworkers.

Other Articles for DIYers from Around the Web

  1. How to Build Cabinets - Bob's Blogs

    Article

    FromBobVila.com

    Building a cabinet looks easy. After all, it’s just a box with a door. It only becomes difficult if you want it to lo...

Other Videos for DIYers from Around the Web

  1. How to Make a Biscuit Joint

    Video

    TFH Multi Playlist Videos

    The Family Handyman editor, Ken Collier, shows you how to make biscuit joints and shares tips on how to get a better and stronger joint. This technique is great for building cabinets , bookshelves and other woodworking projects.

Blog Posts

  1. 18" Kitchen Cabinet Drawer Base

    Blog

    FromAna-White.com

    build your own kitchen cabinets with plans by Ana-White.com Follow Ana on Pinterest! About Project Author Notes:  We've been trucking along on kitchen number 2 ... when baby number 2 allows - so things have been a little slow going.  But just in case on your end, things are moving a little faster, I want to keep you supplied with kitchen cabinet plans - at least in all the standard sizes.  You can take a peek at all the kitchen cabinet posts for the Momplex Vanilla Kitchen right here. We didn't have the right spot for a drawer base cabinet (although we really wanted to put one in!) :( so here's hoping you do - plans for an 18" drawer base cabinet follow. XO Ana + Fam PS - Check out this video for building the carcass and this video on building face frames , and this post on installing drawers. IMPORTANT: There are many different cabinet plans on this site - make sure you use the same family of plans if you are building cabinets .  This plan belongs with the Momplex Vanilla Kitchen Cabinet Plans. Materials and Tools Shopping List:  3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves) 3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves about 3" wide (for top supports) 3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - use cheaper plywood here) 1x2s for face frames 1/4" plywood (for backs) 1-1/4" pocket hole screws 3/4" finish nails 3 sets of drawer slides with interior max length of 21-1/2" if attached to top support, 22-1/4" if attached to sides or back plywood (we used metaboxes) Tools:  measuring tape square pencil safety glasses hearing protection Kreg Jig™ drill jigsaw compound miter saw table saw nailer Cut List Cut List:  CARCASS 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 34 1/2" (side panels) 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 16" (bottom shelf) 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 16" (bottom supports) 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3 1/2" (can vary) x 16" (top supports) 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 17 1/2" (back) FACE FRAME 2 - 1x2 @ 27" 2 - 1x2 @ 18" 2 - 1x2 @ 15" DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4") 5 1/2" x 17 1/2" (drawer face) 11" x 17-1/2" (large drawer faces - you'll need 2) Step 1 Before you begin building - we highly recommend watching this video on making base kitchen cabinets: Start by ripping your plywood down to size - for the side panels, we choose to rip at 22-1/4" wide for a finished cabinet, back to door front of 24". This width can vary - just make sure all of your cabinets are made the same depth. Cut toekicks out with a jigsaw - we made a toekick pattern block and used it to cut out all the sides. Drill 3/4" pocket holes along OUTSIDES of side panels - remember the two panels are in mirror - for attaching face frame in later steps. Step 2 Attach the two base supports to one side panel - pocket holes on side panel are on OUTSIDE. Step 3 Then attach bottom shelf to bottom supports and first side panel. Step 4 Next, attach remaining side panel to bottom supports and shelf. Step 5 Attach top supports to top. Step 6 Add the back with glue and finish nails or staples. Step 7 Build your face frame separately, and then attach to front of cabinet with 3/4" pocket holes. One drawer opening is slightly bigger than the other - this is done on purpose so the drawer facess are the same size, with the bottom 1x2 rail centered between the drawers. Check this video out on building and attaching face frames: Step 8 For our cabinets, we choose to use Metabox drawer slides, but it's really the same process as using standard drawer slides - you can check out how we built drawers here. Build your drawers to fit your openings and drawer slides, and install drawers.  Then attach drawer faces - shown above for full overlay doors/drawers - to the drawers. Finishing Instructions Preparation Instructions:  Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

  2. 21" Base Cabinet Door/Drawer Combo (Momplex White Kitchen)

    Blog

    FromAna-White.com

    21" DIY Kitchen base cabinet plans with full overlay door - Momplex White kitchen cabients. Follow Ana on Pinterest! About Project Author Notes:  I'll be the first to admit, I felt super intimidated when we first started working on the Momplex kitchen . It's a big project for sure, and when you look at a finished kitchen, it can be overwhelming. But what we did was to just focus on building one cabinet at a time , breaking a big project down into little manageable projects, and that made a huge difference in tackling this giant build. We recently shared with you the step by step plans for building the 12" base cabinet (far left and hidden by fridge) and the 36" lazy susan pie cut corner base cabinet, so today, I want to share with you plans for the next cabinet in line - a 21" base kitchen cabinet with a door/drawer combo. This was actually one of the easiest base cabinets tp build in this kitchen, because it's still small enough to be manageable, but not so tiny it's hard to get a drill in tight spots. We again used PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood for the interior, special ordering a prefinished maple plywood (check at your local Home Depot) - so the only finishing we had to do was paint the face frames and doors on this cabinet!!! That was a huge time saver!!! We used poplar for the face frames and ordered our doors (more info on that coming soon) through Cabinet Now. The plans follow for the 21" base cabinet - so check them out!! XO Ana IMPORTANT: Please read through these posts before building, as I show you step by step in pictures how we built these cabinets. Planning and Layout Base Cabinet Construction Shelf Edge Banding Drawer Installation (coming soon) Base Cabinet Installation (coming soon) Cabinet Door Installation (coming soon) Base Cabinet Finishing - Toekick, Trim Etc (coming soon) IMPORTANT: There are many different kitchen cabinet plans on this site - please make sure you use the same collection of plans for all of your base cabinets.  This plan is for the White Momplex Kitchen - with a plywood rip width of 22-1/4" and a toekick cutout of 4-1/2" x 2-1/2".   Materials and Tools Shopping List:  3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves) 3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves (for top supports) 3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - use cheaper plywood here) 1x2s for face frames 1/4" plywood (for backs) 1-1/4" pocket hole screws 3/4" finish nails edge banding for shelves Tools:  measuring tape square pencil safety glasses hearing protection Kreg Jig™ drill jigsaw compound miter saw table saw nailer Cut List Cut List:  CARCASS 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 34 1/2" (side panels) 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 19" (bottom shelf) 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 19" (bottom supports) 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3 1/2" (can vary in rip width) x 19" (top supports) 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 20 1/2" (back) FACE FRAME 2 - 1x2 @ 27" 2 - 1x2 @ 21" 1 - 1x2 @ 18" SHELVES 3/4" plywood @ 22" x 18 3/4" (measure and adjust to fit shelf pins) DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4") 5 1/2" x 20 1/2" (drawer face) 22-1/2" x 20-1/2" (door) Step 1 First, create the side panels - remember that the two side panels are mirrors of each other. Step 2 The bottom shelf is attached 5" up from the bottom of the sides. We used 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (drilling pocket holes on the 3/4" setting) - spacing about ever 6-8". Step 3 Back and front supports are attached to both the sides and the bottom shelf with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. NOTE: Since these pieces of plywood will be hidden under cabinet and behind finished toekick, we opted to use a cheaper plywood than the prefinished stuff here. Step 4 We cut our top supports from the leftover scrap from ripping plywood down to the side/shelf width (22-1/4"). This ended up being about 3-1/2" wide. Depending on the type of drawer slides you are using (we used Metabox drawer slides that mount to the top of the drawer so not a problem for us) you may wish to place extra support for mounting the drawer slides to the back or a larger back piece. Step 5 We cut our backs to 32" heights because it saves a ton of plywood - and the back isn't really necessary - just finishes out the inside of the shelf. We nailed our backs on with 3/4" finish nails and glue. Step 6 We built our face frames seperately on a clean table, clamping each joint. Then we attached the face frame (after painting it) to the front of the cabinet through the pocket holes drilled in the outsides of the sides and the top. We did have to glue and nail the bottom of the face frame, as it is too tight to fit a drill in there to attach at the base. Step 7 These cabinets would also work with partial overlay hinges, but we opted for full overlay doors. These are the door and drawer sizes we ordered for full overaly doors. We used 1-1/4" overlay hinges (concealed euro style - more on this later) for hinges. Finishing Instructions Preparation Instructions:  Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed. May I Suggest a Finish? Express Color with Minwax Stain Staining and Finishing Tabletops Painting White Outdoor Adirondack Projects   1 of 9 ››

  3. Putting Down My Paintbrush. Kinda.

    Blog

    FromDIY Diva

    I have a love-hate relationship with deadlines. I mean, judging by how often they are preceded by swearing, you would think I loathe them, but that doesn’t seem to stop...

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