Want perfect end cuts every time? We'll show you how to get them on your table saw. Follow these tips, tricks and techniques to make straight cuts and angle cuts in almost any sized lumber. Get your table saw ready now so you can make perfect cuts on your next project.
Loosen the handle on the miter gauge and square it to the saw blade with a drafting square, then retighten the handle.
Screw an extension fence to the miter gauge from the back side.
Start the saw and cut off the end of the extension fence.
Hold a 4-in.-wide test piece against the fence, start the saw and push the wood through the blade. Shut off the saw and remove the two halves.
Flip one half over and butt the cut edges together against the rip fence. A gap shows that the miter gauge is slightly off. Adjust it and retest.
The key to accurate right-angle cuts is to square up the miter gauge to the saw blade. Don't trust the angle indicators on the gauge; they're far too sloppy. Instead, go to an art supply or woodworking store and buy a 45-degree drafting triangle. Set one side against the blade and align the gauge to the other side (Photo 1).
Be sure the side of the triangle against the blade falls between the teeth tight to the blade “plate.” For greater accuracy, have the blade cranked all the way up so you're squaring to the widest part of the blade. Choose a straight 1x2 or 1x3 board at least 12 in. long for the extension fence (Photo 2).
Sometimes you'll need a longer fence, but more on this later. Screw the fence to the miter gauge with the right side projecting a few inches past the saw blade. All miter gauges have a pair of screw holes or slots for this purpose. Choose screws short enough so they don't penetrate all the way through the wood.
Photos 4 and 5 show you how to test the accuracy of and fine-tune your miter gauge setting. You'll find that even tiny adjustments have a big effect.
Raise the blade all the way and hold a combination square vertically against the blade and the saw table. Adjust the blade tilt as necessary. Don’t trust the saw's tilt angle indicator. Ours was off by two full degrees.
Mark the board for length and align the mark with the end of the extension fence.
Start the saw, hold the board firmly against the fence and push the board completely past the saw blade.
Pull the board away from the blade, then shut off the saw and remove the cutoff piece from the other side.
To make precise square cuts, start by rough-cutting long boards a few inches longer than the final length, with either a circular or a miter saw. (Boards longer than 4 ft. are awkward to cut on a table saw.) Then raise or lower the blade so it’s about 1/8 in. higher than the board's thickness.
Position the factory end of the board just past the end of the extension fence so the blade will just shave it, and then start the saw. Always recut factory ends; they're rarely perfectly square. Hold the board snug against the fence and slowly push it through the blade. After each cut, slide the board away from the blade and turn off the saw before you remove cutoff pieces.
Now mark the exact length at the other end and align that mark with the end of the extension fence (Photo 1). Then make the final cut.
Raise the blade and set the miter gauge to 45 degrees, using the drafting square. Then mount an extension fence to the miter gauge.
Hold the board very firmly against the fence and push the board through the blade to make the cut.
Perfect miters are almost as easy as crosscuts. Start by setting the miter gauge to 45 degrees (Photo 1).
Mount an extension fence, moving it toward the blade far enough to cut the end at a 45-degree angle (Photo 2). Then make the fine cuts on your material. Hold your material very tight; the saw blade will try to pull it off line. In general, it's best to make all your miter cuts first, and then any square cuts at the opposite end, where it's easier to be accurate.
For the kind of extreme accuracy needed for complete squares such as picture frames, cut two test boards, push the miters tightly together and check the assembly with a drafting square. If it's not perfect, adjust the miter gauge and repeat. Again, it only takes very small adjustments to make big differences.
Clamp a straight length of plywood to the side of a sawhorse level with the saw table. Support one end of long boards on the plywood edge while you crosscut them.
Any board much over 4 ft. long is tougher to cut accurately because the table on the saw will no longer support it. As you struggle to keep it flat on the table, it often binds in the blade. Clamp a piece of plywood or closet shelving (the slippery edge helps the wood slide) to the top of a sawhorse.
To adjust the height of the support board, hold a level or a straightedge flat to the table until the board is even with the table top. Resist the temptation to have a buddy support the other end while you push it through the blade. That's dangerous. Avoid that dicey human element.
Raise the blade to cut just over halfway through the post. Make one pass, then flip the post over and align the saw kerf with the end of the fence and complete the cut.
Cutting newel posts, table legs or other thick stock to length has to be done in two steps. Set up your fence exactly as before. A higher fence, at least two-thirds the thickness of the wood, gives better support. Then the trick is to make a first cut halfway through and flip the wood over to finish the cut.
With this technique, the blade guard will block the wood from going all the way through the blade. You'll have to remove it for this task, so cut with caution. Be sure to keep your fingers well away from the blade while you make the cuts.
You don't need to use a stationary table saw like we show in this article to make nice crosscuts. An ordinary portable table saw will do just fine for most cuts. The size of the material you can cut will be limited by the size of the table and the distance from the saw blade to the miter gauge. However, make sure to anchor the saw securely when you're cutting long or heavy material.
Cut a board to the exact length, align one end with the fence end and clamp an angled stop block to the fence. Push each board against the stop block and make the cut.
Clamp a stop block on the end of a long secondary fence. Adjust the position of the secondary fence and clamp it to the extension fence. Then cut long boards to length.
When you're building a cabinet, a piece of furniture or nearly any other project, just about every component will need a matching partner (or several partners) of identical length. The trick is to cut the first board at exactly the right length and then use it to establish a stop block to cut all the others. Here are two techniques for that process, one for short boards and the other for long ones.
If boards will be shorter than 18 in. or so, it's best to use a slightly longer extension fence and clamp a stop block to the fence (Photo 1). Cut a slight angle on the stop block. That'll keep saw dust from accumulating between the block and the board. Sawdust buildup will result in boards that are just a wee bit on the short side.
It's impractical to have an unwieldy extra-long fence to cut long identical boards. Instead, clamp a secondary fence above the boards and clamp a stop block on the end of that fence as shown in Photo 2. Select extension fence stock that's tall enough to handle both the thickness of the board and the clamp for the secondary fence. A 1-1/2-in. x 3/4-in. board works well for the secondary fence.
The table saw is arguably the most dangerous power tool in the shop even when you're using it for crosscutting. Here are a few tips to keep you as safe as possible.