DIY table saw table overview: A knockdown system without fasteners
Portable table saws are great for garage workshops.
When the project is done, they fold up and tuck away
so you can park the car. But when it comes to capacity,
they're a bit limited.
That's what led to this knockdown table saw system. It
has a great outfeed table; you also gain extra width to rip
larger pieces of plywood, and the outfeed table works great for an assembly workbench.
The project also has some nifty add-on trays: one to hold your table saw safety
equipment (hearing and vision protection and push sticks) and another to hold all
your hand tools and hardware so you can keep the top clutter-free. This project is perfect
for a small work space because it sets up in minutes without fasteners, and at the
end of the day you can have it back on the wall and the car in the garage.
What it takes in a nutshell:
Time: 1 weekend
Skill level: intermediate
Tools: Drill, circular saw,
jigsaw, sander, table saw
DIY table saw table stored on wall
DIY Table Saw Table
This DIY table saw table is a workshop on a wall. In less than five
minutes of setup time, you're ready to cut big sheets or work on the assembly table. When done, simply dismantle it and hang it flat on the wall, and you’ll still have plenty of space
to park the car.
Outfeed table and side support
Additional Table Saw Table Features
Outfeed table and side support
Rip or crosscut large parts—even full sheets of plywood—without a helper.
The outfeed table doubles as a large work surface. Plus,
there's a tool tray below.
Tool trays galore
Build as many as you need and hang them anywhere you like.
Step 1: Gather materials and begin cutting the table saw table parts
This project requires four sheets of 3/4-
in. plywood. The side panels (A) and end
panels (B and C) are each cut from a
separate sheet of plywood. It's best to
cut the outfeed top (G) from the same
sheet as the outfeed end panel (C).
From the leftovers, you'll have more
than enough scrap to cut the struts,
supports and feet, plus any trays you
choose to build.
I used hardwood plywood (oak). Stay
away from construction-grade plywood
(it's usually labeled “A-C”, “B-C” or
“C-D”). Construction plywood is cheaper
and tends to warp and is difficult to cut
If you're building this project for a portable
saw with its own cart, set up the
saw and measure the height of the saw
top down to the floor. Subtract 3/16 in.
from this measurement and make parts A
this height. Part B, the front panel, should
be 3-1/4 in. shorter than A. The back, part
C, can remain the same as in our plan. It's
important to have the top of the surround
just slightly lower than the table of your
saw to ensure the workpieces don't get
caught on an edge as you cut. If you’re
fussy about setup, you can shim under
each foot to dial in the exact height.
After adapting parts A and B, you can
use the Cutting List found in “Additional Information” below to cut the other
parts. Check the two sides of your plywood
before cutting. One side may be
darker than the other. I planned my cuts
so all the lighter sides would face out.
This not only looks good but makes
Figure A: Table saw table system
Figure A: Table Saw Table System
72" long x 66" wide x 35" high
You can download and enlarge Figure A In “Additional Information” below.
Step 2: Cut a bunch of notches
1 of 1
Photo 1: Cut the notches
Clamp the two
notches line up
a block to a
add a clamp to
hold the parts
This project assembles with interlocking
notches, so cutting the slots accurately
is a must. You want the notches to be
about 1/32 in. wider than your plywood.
This “play” in the notch makes for easy
setup and knockdown and still gives
sufficient rigidity. The depth of each
notch needs to be exact so that the tops
of all the parts line up and give you a flat
Before cutting notches, set your saw
depth and make a test cut to check the
depth. Then clamp the sides (A) precisely
together and cut (Photo 1). For
each notch, make several cuts no more
than 1/8 in. apart. Cut out thin strips of
plywood with a sharp chisel and smooth
the bottom of the notch with a file.
Step 3: Cut and assemble the sides
1 of 1
Photo 2: Mark the arches
Nail a strip of wood to a scrap of plywood or OSB, 12-1/2 in. from the
edge of the scrap. Trace arches onto the sides, front and back panels. Cut the
arches with a jigsaw.
Next, trace and cut the arches (Photo
2) in the bottoms of parts A, B and C.
Parts A are 30-in. radius, and parts B
and C are 24-1/2-in. radiuses. The curves
add to the overall appearance of the
project and also make the parts lighter
and easier to handle. To complete the
sides (A), glue and nail the 3/4-in. x 3/4-in. cleats (D) above the rear notches.
Cut and notch the struts (E) for the outfeed
table. Then glue and nail the supports
(E2) to the inner sides of the struts.
Step 4: Assemble the feet
1 of 1
Photo 3: Assemble the feet
use glue plus
nails or screws.
round over the
with a belt
Cut the small plywood parts (F1 – F6)
as shown in Figure A, above. Glue and nail
the parts, making sure the edges align and
sit flat as shown in Photo 3. Be sure to
remove any oozing glue.
Step 5: Assemble the table saw table and finish up
1 of 1
Photo 4: Build the outfeed table
Assemble the frame and make sure
it's square. Set the struts in place, then
glue and nail the table to the struts.
Start your assembly as shown in Photos
1-4. With the feet supporting the sides
and the front and rear panels, lay in the
struts of the outfeed table. Waiting to
glue and nail the plywood top (G) until
now will ensure that the struts will be in
just the right spot and won't bind during
setup and knockdown. Glue and nail the
top to the strut supports (Photo 4).
Check the interlocking joints to make
sure they all meet at the right height and
that no part of the outfeed table is proud
or short of the sides. Also make sure the
front panel (B) is flush with the sides. If
any of the notches fit too tightly, widen
them with a file. If any are too deep, glue
a thin shim into the base of the notch.
Now you're ready to drill holes, some
for trays and others for hanging the parts
on the wall. I drilled 2-1/2-in. holes 16 in.
on center to align with wall studs and
drove 1/2-in. lag screws into the studs.
Drill the holes with a hole saw. To get clean
holes, start the holes from one side, then,
as soon as the pilot bit emerges through the
opposite side, remove the drill and finish
the hole from the other side.
With the whole project complete, I
rounded the edges of the parts with a
3/8-in. round-over router bit. This makes
the whole project look better and reduces
splintering on the edges, but it's not mandatory.
Then I sanded the plywood with
150-grit sandpaper, vacuumed, and applied
two coats of Minwax Wipe-On Poly to all
the parts. The finish will reduce warping as
the humidity changes. Plus, it makes the
whole project look great.
Adaptation for benchtop saw
This DIY Table Saw Table Works With Benchtop Saws, Too.
If your saw doesn't have a stand, just glue and screw 1x2 cleats to the side panels.
Drop in a shelf and you've got the perfect platform for a benchtop saw. The shelf is
simply a slab of 3/4-in. plywood with 1x2 stiffeners glued to the front and back edges.