What is a reciprocating saw?
1 of 2
Use framing components as a guide
Run your blade alongside framing to cut plywood sheathing. Brace yourself. Lock your knees into ladder rails. If possible, lean against something solid for support. This works for window and door openings, wall and roof ends, and anyplace else where you let plywood sheathing run wild. This technique also works during demolition—just run the blade against the last framing member to stay.
2 of 2
The best demolition tool ever
Reciprocating saws, introduced in 1951, quickly became favored tools of contractors. Many of today's saws have big 10-amp motors, variable speeds, no-wrench blade changing and 1-1/4 in. cutting strokes.
The reciprocating saw is a “gateway tool.” It's the tool you'll own when you graduate to a serious DIYer tackling a repair or major remodeling. If you buy one these days, expect to pay from $100 to $300, depending on the brand and the features. Would you rather try a reciprocating saw out for a one-time repair? Go ahead and rent one, but you'll find that you'd rather have put the money toward buying one so you'll have it again later.
We'll show you a variety of uses for reciprocating saws, along with effective, safe ways to achieve professional results. A reciprocating saw isn't used as a fine crafting tool. It's a workhorse that gets its name from the short, back-and-forth cutting stroke of the blade. The blade is exposed so you can direct it into tight spaces. Because of this feature, you can use it in situations where other saws would be slow, impractical or pose a greater safety risk. Compared with a circular saw, a reciprocating saw is easier to control when you're cutting above your head or working from a ladder.
The best blade for the best job
1 of 1
Use the right blade
Use a metal-cutting blade to slice through pipes. Brace yourself when cutting above your head. Dust and debris can shake loose while cutting in older ceilings; always wear safety glasses and a dust mask as needed.
By selecting the right blade, you're able to tackle different tasks.
- For cutting through metal pipes and nails, use a fine-tooth blade resembling a hacksaw.
- When cutting through wood, use a coarse blade.
- Use the coarsest-tooth blade to cut through plaster.
- Some blades are toothless. They're coated with tungsten carbide abrasive grit; use them for cutting stone, ceramic tile and cast iron.
You don't always have to be finicky about choosing a blade. Use a “nail-cutting” wood blade to slash through roof shingles and plywood as well as nail-embedded 2x4s.
Most of the blade types come in standard 6-in. lengths. Smaller jig-saw-type blades are available, or select a 12-in. blade—useful for reaching into deep recesses, cutting beefy landscape timbers and pruning trees.
Although tough, blades are not indestructible. They're disposable and should be changed as often as you sense that a dull blade is slowing the cutting. Bimetal blades, with “tool steel” teeth bonded to a flexing “spring steel” blade, cost slightly more than carbon steel blades but outperform them. They're tougher, cut faster and remain flexible longer.
If bent, blades can be hammered flat and reused. Even after the front teeth at the tip of your blade are worn down, you can still extend the blade's life with this simple trick. Wearing safety glasses, use tin snips to cut off the tip at an angle—thus presenting sharper teeth at the point of attack. Most manufacturers' blades can be used on most brands of recip saws. Verify this before you buy.