How to hook up a gas range
1 of 6
Photo 1: Pull out the range
Pull out the range, and shut off the gas cock (see
also Photo 2). The gas is off when the lever is at a
right angle to the pipe. This shutoff may be located
behind the range, or in the basement just below. A shutoff
is required in the line to the range, and should be added if
you don't have one.
2 of 6
Photo 2: Wrap the pipe threads
twice around the
threads in the same
direction that the fitting
screws on (clockwise).
Yellow Teflon tape, heavier
than white, is meant
for gas fittings. The
1/2-in. x 3/4-in. coupling
3/4-in. end connector
fitting (Photo 3), since
connectors with 1/2-in.
end fittings at both ends
are not always readily
3 of 6
Photo 3: Screw the connector to the gas line
Remove the end connector fitting, wrap the
unbeveled end with Teflon tape, and screw it to the
gas line. This end fitting can be either male or female.
ALWAYS use both of the removable end fittings. NEVER screw
the connector nuts that are on the ends of the corrugated tube
to a black gas fitting or pipe. This would be a guaranteed leak.
4 of 6
Photo 4: Use a street elbow
Screw a 1/2-in. x 1/2-in.
street elbow (male threads at
one end, female at the other)
into the range gas port. Then screw
the connector's other end fitting into
the street elbow. Use Teflon tape on
each fitting. Be careful not to overtighten,
putting excess stress on the
range's gas port fitting.
5 of 6
Photo 5: Tighten the nuts
connector nuts to
the two end connector
tightening the nuts, hold
the tube straight against
the fitting. Do NOT use
Teflon tape on these
threads. The beveled
edges of the end fittings
are meant to form a
tight seal against the
ends of the corrugated
tube. Using tape can
interfere with this seal.
6 of 6
Photo 6: Check for leaks
Turn on the
position) and light
the range burners
for about a minute
to get the air out of
the gas line. Then
spray all the joints
you've made with
gas leak detector
(sold at home
centers). You can
also use warm, thick
soapy water for
around a joint will
indicate a leak.
Hooking up a gas range or water heater is a relatively simple job requiring just
basic tools and readily available supplies. And if you
use the right materials and follow instructions carefully,
you can safely do the job yourself. A professional
may charge as much as a few hundred dollars for a hook-up.
We'll show you in this article how to do two basic
types of gas connection: hooking up a gas range using
a flexible, corrugated connector (a gas clothes dryer is
similar); and using threaded black
steel gas pipe to hook up a water heater.
Flexible corrugated gas connectors and gas pipe and fittings (black) are available at most home centers and well-stocked hardware stores. Stainless steel or coated brass
connectors are the only type of flexible connectors sold these days, and the only type you can
safely and legally use. Older types of
corrugated connectors—sold until
the 1980s—made of
uncoated brass or other metal have
been found to be unsafe. Have one in
your house? Replace it now!
The most important step to a safe
installation is to buy the right connector.
Here's what to look for:
- Buy a connector that is clearly
marked for the appliance you're
hooking up—either “range” or
“dryer.” Typically the corrugated
tube of a range connector is 1/2 in. dia. i.d. (inside diameter), and a dryer
connector is 3/8 in. dia. i.d. These
dimensions are not always marked on
the package, but they will be marked
for either range or dryer.
- Buy a connector that comes packaged
with the end connector fittings you need (see Photo 3). Usually
the gas line coming into your
kitchen will be 1/2-in. black
threaded pipe, and the connection
to the stove will be either a male
(external threads) or female (internal
threads) 1/2-in. fitting. If you
cannot find a connector package
with end fittings that match what
you need for the gas line, use a
black gas pipe fitting on the line to
accommodate the end connector
fitting. For example, in Photos 2
and 3, we show a 1/2-in. x 3/4-in.
coupling on the gas line to accommodate
the 3/4-in. end connector
fitting. (For more possible connections and information about connecting to soft copper supply lines, see How to Connect Gas Pipe Lines)
- Use a connector that's plenty
long so you'll have enough room
to work between the stove and the
wall. They come in lengths from 24
in. to 60 in.
- Don't reuse a flexible connector;
if you get a new appliance, buy a
new connector as well.
Follow the instructions for
installing the connector religiously.
Our Photos 1 through 5
give a real-life picture of how this is
done. Here are some additional
- Be careful not to kink or force
the corrugated connector into
sharp bends, which could eventually
cause a break.
- Always check your work for
leaks (Photo 6). Gas leak detectors are sold at home centers, hardware stores and online.
- Although it's not always
required to have a range
that you call your
local gas company or
plumbing inspector to
check your work.
Hook up a gas water heater
1 of 5
Photo 1: Shut off the gas
Shut off the gas cock on
the line entering the water
heater. It usually requires a
one-quarter turn. When the lever
is parallel to the pipe, the gas is
on; at a right angle to the pipe is
off. A gas shutoff is required in
the line; if you don't have one,
you'll need to install one.
2 of 5
Photo 2: Unscrew the union
Uncouple the gas line at the union,
a fitting that should be located somewhere
below the gas cock, as shown
here and in Photos 4 and 5. Hold back the top
part of the union with one wrench as you
unscrew the coupling section with a second
3 of 5
Photo 3: Unscrew the tee
Remove the two
short vertical lengths
of pipe that run above
and below the tee fitting.
Then unscrew the tee along
with the short horizontal
length of pipe running to the
heater's gas port. Always
use a second “hold-back”
wrench, as shown here and
in Photo 4, to prevent damage
to the heater's gas port
and gas valve. The “drip leg”and cap shown here is
required to prevent debris
from clogging the gas valve.
4 of 5
Photo 4: Reassemble the gas line
gas line in the
as it was. If your heater's
gas port is in a different
horizontal location than
the old one, you need to
vary the length of the pipe
being installed here to
align the tee with the gas
line. If the heater's gas
port is in a different location
vertically from the old
one, you need to change
the length of the pipe
above the tee. Measure
the distance, and allow an
extra 1/2 in. at each end
for the threads to screw in.
5 of 5
Photo 5: Reassemble the union
union. Note the copper
seal that forms
the gas-tight seal; make
sure the pipe alignment is
straight, so the two sections
of the seal will join up properly.
Then tighten the union
as shown in Photo 2. Install
the drip leg and cap as
shown in Photo 3. Test for
The gas connection to a water heater
is usually done with rigid 1/2-in. dia.
black gas pipe. In some areas, it's
acceptable to use a flexible stainless
steel connector, similar to a range
hook-up, but check with your plumbing
inspector or gas utility first. Rigid
pipe is preferable, since a water
heater's gas line is exposed and more
vulnerable to movement and damage.
In many cases, the gas port on your
new water heater will be in the same
location as the old one, relative to
your gas line. This makes the hook-up easy: Just remove the short lengths of
pipe and fittings, as shown in Photos
2 and 3, clean the threads, apply new
Teflon tape to the threads, and reconnect
the entire assembly exactly as it
However, if the heater's gas port is
in a different location, you will have to
change the length of one or possibly
two short lengths of pipe, as shown in
Photo 4. Nipples—short lengths of
black pipe—are sold at most home
centers in 1/2-in. increments for the
Here are some guidelines:
- Use yellow Teflon tape, intended
for threaded gas connections, not
white Teflon tape, which is thinner.
- Test all your joints for leaks.
- In most, but not all areas, a
permit and inspection is
required for a water heater hookup.
In either case, we
that you call your local
gas company or
plumbing inspector to
check your work.