How to Build a Patio Chair

Measure and Mark

• Mark one-inch increments on both ends and one side of the hardboard.
• Draw grid lines using a combination square, straight edge and fine-point permanent marker.

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Develop the Pattern

• Transfer the points to your hardboard grid where the shape intersects the grid lines in the drawing.

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Draw the Lines

• Draw lines connecting the points made on the grid.
• Use a smooth, arcing arm movement to draw the gradual curve.
• Use a quarter to trace the 1/2-in. radiuses at the bottom of the leg.
• Use a jigsaw to cut out the pattern.

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Align the Backrest

• Align the backrest strut template to the centerline and bottom edge of the cedar piece and trace the shape.
• Flip the template along the centerline to draw the other half.
• Cut out the pieces with a jigsaw.

To use the template

• Align it to centerlines drawn on the boards, trace around it, then flip it over the centerline and trace the rest of the shape.
  • Remember, the seat struts are 1/4 in. skinnier and two inches shorter than the backrest struts.

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Sand the Edges

• Sand the edges of the curved pieces with a belt sander.
  • If you don’t have a bench vise, you can support the legs with a handscrew clamp while you sand.
• Cut all the pieces to the dimensions given in the Cutting List, using the templates for the legs and the top slat.
• Cut out the shapes with a jigsaw.
• Sand the pieces with a belt sander.

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Drill the Ends

• Drill the ends of the hand grip holes with a 1-in. spade bit.
  • Pro tip: Drill part way in from both sides so you won’t tear out the wood.
• Lay out the hand grip hole in the top slat (C), then cut it out using a jigsaw and spade bit.
• Rip the back and seat slats two inches wide using a table saw.
• Lay out, countersink and drill all the screw holes for the slats and supports.
• Sand all the pieces with 120-grit, then 150-grit sandpaper.
• Round over the sharp edges with the sandpaper.

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Align the Seat

• Use a carpenter’s square to align the seat supports 90 degrees to the backrest struts, then glue and screw them in place.
• Use glue and screws to attach the slats, too.
• Screw the two seat supports (D) and curved top slat to the backrest struts using the spacing given in Fig. A.
• Attach the five slats to the backrest struts and six slats to the seat struts.

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Attach the Slats

• Attach the slats to the seat struts using a 1/2-in. spacer to align them.
• Finish driving the screws by hand to avoid setting their heads too deep.
  • Pro tip: Cedar is soft, so when screwing the pieces together, finish driving the screws by hand to avoid setting their heads too deep.

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Finishing Touches

• Before applying the finish, unscrew the two seat supports and apply weather-resistant glue (like Titebond II or Gorilla Glue) to the joints, then re-screw the seat supports to the backrest struts.
  • Pro tip: The glue will strengthen the joint. The chair relies primarily on these seat supports for strength.
• Brush on two liberal coats of a penetrating exterior wood sealer (like Thompson’s Water Seal).
• Let the first coat dry for 24 hours, then apply the second coat.
• After an hour, wipe off any excess finish.
• Let the finish dry for a couple of days before using the chair.
• After a year or two, plan to re-coat the chairs to keep them looking good.
  • Pro tip: If you decide to paint the chairs instead, use an oil-based primer followed by a semi-gloss oil-based paint. Don’t use a clear varnish; the sun will eventually break it down and you’ll be refinishing every summer instead of relaxing.

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