Check out these tips and tricks from paint and wallpaper professionals that will make your projects easier and faster. From how to paint in tough places to how to fix bad wallpaper seams, our pros share their favorite secrets and shortcuts.
One coat of paint usually won't hide the underlying color and sheen on trim. And if you don’t sand the surface smooth between coats, the finish may have a grainy texture. For a smooth finish, sand the trim before applying each coat of paint. Sand the trim with a fine-grit sanding sponge. Sponges get into crevices where sandpaper
can't go and let you apply even pressure. Then apply the first coat of paint, let it dry at least 24 hours, lightly sand it again for a completely smooth surface, and apply the second coat. After each sanding, vacuum the trim, then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove the dust.
Ridges of paint left by the edge of the roller, or lap marks, are a common problem. And if left to dry, they can be difficult to get rid of without heavy sanding or patching. Here are three ways to avoid the problem:
When you're finishing a painting project, write
on a piece of masking tape the date and how
many gallons of paint were needed for the job.
Stick the tape to the back of the light switch
plate. To get the exact shade next time, also
include the color formula sticker peeled off the
paint can. When the room's due for a fresh coat,
you'll be ready to go.
Sand the walls with 100-grit sandpaper to remove bumps from the old paint job, rough edges of drywall paper around any gouges and any other imperfections. A drywall sander will make the job easier. Sand primed woodwork with a medium-grit sanding sponge. Fill any
wall blemishes such as nail holes and gouges with a nonshrinking spackling compound and lightly sand after they're dry. Dust all the woodwork with an old, soft paintbrush or duster. Caulk all wall/woodwork joints with a paintable white silicone/latex caulk. Cut a small (1/8-in.) hole in the end of the nozzle. Wipe off excess
and smooth caulk beads with a damp synthetic sponge.
If you have a door that needs painting, you’ll flip for this tip. You’ll be able to paint both sides of the door without waiting for the first side to dry. Rest the door on
sawhorses and drive a 1/4-in. x 2-1/2-in. lag screw into each corner of one end and another in the middle of the other end for a pivot. Slide the sawhorses to each end of the door so the screws rest on the edges of the sawhorses. Paint one side of the door and then, using the two screws as handles, lift and rotate the door
on the pivot screw to expose the unpainted side.
Store paint cans upside down and
the paint will form an airtight seal
around the rim. Make sure the
cover is on tight to prevent leakage.
Hold the can upright and
shake it vigorously before you
open it so the solids in the paint
drop off the lid.
A neat, straight paint line at the top of a
wall is tough to achieve next to a bumpy
ceiling. So before you paint, drag a
narrow flat-head screwdriver lightly along
the ceiling. You'll get a clean paint line
and no one will ever notice that the
bumps are missing.
You can't rely on those stain samples on display in stores.
Actual color varies a lot, depending on the type of wood and how you prepare it for finishing. So save scraps from your project, run them through the same sanding process and use them to test finishes. If you didn't build the item you're finishing, run tests on an inconspicuous
area—the underside of a table, for example. Test stain on scraps to get the color you want. Leaving excess stain on the wood for longer or shorter periods won't affect the color much. If it's a custom color
you’'e after, you can mix stains of the same brand.
You probably have a few cans of pricey paint that you're afraid to use because they contain rust, chips and lumps of hardened paint. Refresh that paint by filtering it through old nylon pantyhose. You can usually get a new empty can from a local paint store for a few bucks.
Save your empty pump-type sprayers
that have an adjustable-spray tip and
use them to apply stain. Spray a small section
at a time, then wipe it. You'll be surprised
how little stain you use to complete the job this way
compared with brushing. This technique is especially
helpful for applying stain to intricate parts like spindles.
To cover and create outlet or switch plate covers that match the pattern of the surrounding wall, follow these steps: Match the pattern on a scrap piece of wallpaper with that on the surrounding wall (Photo 1).
Wet or apply paste to the paper, position
it and gently remove the wallpaper and plastic cover from
the wall. Next, fold the edges back around the cover and
secure them with wall covering seam repair (Photo 2). Cut the corners for crisper folds.
Finally, cut out and remove the
excess wallpaper using the openings in the plastic cover as a
guide (Photo 3).
Fix bubbles in wallpaper by cutting them with a razor knife. A small slit is all that’s needed. Then insert the end of a glue applicator in the slit and squeeze in a little adhesive. Wipe away excessive adhesive with a damp sponge and press the wallpaper against the wall to force out the air, using a plastic straightedge. The glue applicators and adhesive are available at paint stores and home centers for less than $10.
Repairing loose wallpaper
seams is fairly simple. Just
apply a seam repair adhesive.
It provides a solid bond and
will keep the seams from coming
loose. It’s available at paint
stores and home centers for
less than $10.
Squirt the adhesive directly
onto the wall behind the loose
seams, then press the edges
back into place. Use a roller or
straightedge as shown to
firmly press the paper against
the wall and drive out any air
bubbles. Wipe away any excess
adhesive with a damp sponge
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.
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