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April 22, 9:21 AM [GMT -5]

FLEX-Drain 25' Perforated Drain Pipe with Sock is sold in 25' lengths. Is there any reason why it needs to be cut into 4-6' lengths rather than simply kept as one continuous pipe, looping back around the box? It would seem to fill faster.

April 19, 9:14 PM [GMT -5]

How big should the perforations in the pipe be? The holes in the pipe I bought seem awfully small.

April 15, 9:30 PM [GMT -5]

I assume from comments that perforations on pipe should be facing up? This just seems to go against everything I know about leach pipes but I know the purpose is the wicking of the water. Just want to make sure I am doing these correctly. I also agree that running a few PVC connectors to the pipes would speed up the process of filling them. Has anyone tried that?

Thanks

March 25, 10:53 AM [GMT -5]

So I chose to take the deepest depth for my plants and I estimate I have about 18 cubic feet of space to fill. Could I fill this entire planter with a CoCo Peat Mix?

March 20, 12:11 AM [GMT -5]

Only the video mentions the landscape cloth. Is this to keep the roots from sitting directly in the water reservoir part? Is the water supposed to wick from the watr half to the upper half through the fabric?

March 19, 3:24 AM [GMT -5]

J17MD -

True that treated lumber can leach chemicals, but this bed is lined with a pond liner so the soil is never in contact with the wood.

March 18, 8:58 AM [GMT -5]

"If you use treated wood, the price would drop to about $250" This is a HUGE mistake if you're growing food. I'm shocked that a warning isn't in the article.

**I REPEAT IF YOU PLAN TO GROW FOOD DO NOT USE TREATED WOOD!**

March 18, 2:43 AM [GMT -5]

As written, the second pipe leeches water from the surrounding soil. So, you fill - wait for water to equalize, then top up.
An alternative is to run a small tube (like the runoff tube) between the 2 main water-holders, allowing them to both fill faster.

As for that runoff tube: connect it near the BOTTOM of you main pipe, take it straight out of the box, then run it UP the side... presto! You now have a water level indicator, just like a boiling water urn! Snip the top to allow overflow, tack the tube to the side, and you can see water level at a glance.

svc

March 17, 5:31 PM [GMT -5]

The list of materials along with exact instructions for them were not included in the of materials/shopping list - like the pipes need to be perforated, the length of the pipes, etc. It's a fun and doable project but we need list of materials. Thanks
Sonia

March 16, 9:24 PM [GMT -5]

the material and cutting lists are downloads after you go to the print section. I am going to build a couple of these this spring. Thanks

March 16, 7:24 PM [GMT -5]

Wouldn't it be more efficient to join the four tubes with connecting tubes than to wait until the bottom fills/seeps into the three remaining tubes? Seems like this is a flaw in the design. But other than that I like the concept and it could be used for smaller planters too. Now to source out some 'cheap' pond liners...

February 24, 2:49 PM [GMT -5]

I'm not sure why no one is answering the above questions, so I will: The soil will absorb as much water as it can, then the rest will seep into the other pipes through the perforations. It's kind of like osmosis, but has to do with pressure/gravity. When the plants drink the water, the soil can absorb more and draws it out of the pipes. You only need one fill tube.

October 08, 2:28 PM [GMT -5]

How are the 3 remaining pieces of drain pipe suppose to be filled with water? The instructions call for only 1 piece of CPVC tube to be inserted into 1 drain pipe and not all 4.

August 29, 9:35 PM [GMT -5]

Is the perforated drain pipe snaked through the bottom of the box as one piece or laid as pieces next to each other. And if so, are they connected in some other fashion to allow the water to pass from one to the next?

July 14, 4:28 PM [GMT -5]

You are missing the materials list for this project.

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