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Kitchen Storage Projects That Create More Space

These 5 projects will create more space in your cabinets. You can unlock hidden storage space in your kitchen by opening up the hard-to-get-at corners, nooks and crannies of your cabinets. Squeeze more space from deep base cabinets and corner cabinets and add versatile new features to old cabinets.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

Kitchen Storage Projects That Create More Space

These 5 projects will create more space in your cabinets. You can unlock hidden storage space in your kitchen by opening up the hard-to-get-at corners, nooks and crannies of your cabinets. Squeeze more space from deep base cabinets and corner cabinets and add versatile new features to old cabinets.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

Finding space

Chances are, your kitchen has plenty of storage space—it's just that a good chunk of it is hidden in the hard-to-get-at corners, nooks and crannies of your cabinets. Deep base cabinets and corner cabinets pose particular problems.

We're going to show you five projects that create more storage space and make existing cabinet space more accessible. Each project is constructed using readily available lumber, plywood, hardware, L-moldings, glue and screws. For speed and accuracy, we recommend you borrow, buy or rent a power miter saw. We start with the easiest project and end with the hardest, so if you're a beginner, you can build your do-it-yourself skills and confidence as you work your way through.

Since many cabinet openings differ from ours in height and width, we'll concentrate on the basic steps and “key measurements” rather than exact dimensions.

Some of these projects mount to cabinet doors or face frames. Make sure your cabinets, doors and hinges are in good shape and that you don't overload your finished projects with heavy cans and other objects.

Door-mounted spice and lid racks

These simple racks will help transform those chaotic gangs of spice bottles and pan lids into orderly regiments. We show you how to build only the spice rack; the lid rack uses the same steps but without the shelves Each spice rack can hold 20 to 30 bottles, and each lid rack two to six lids, depending on the height and width of your cabinet doors. Before building, measure your spice bottles and lids to determine the spacing of your shelves and dowels. Here are other key measurements and clearances to keep an eye on:

Existing shelf depth. If the existing cabinet shelves are full depth, narrow them by about 2 in. to accommodate each door-mounted rack. Shelves that are permanently affixed in grooves in the cabinet sides will need to be removed, cut along the backside with a circular saw or table saw, then replaced. You may need to move brackets or add holes to remount narrowed shelves.

Spice rack depth and positioning. Make certain the new rack won't hit the cabinet frame when the door swings. We found that fitting the rack between the two 2-in. wide vertical stiles (Photo 1) gave us adequate room. If your doors are solid wood or laminate, hold in place a scrap of wood the same depth as the spice rack (2-1/2 in. was the depth we used) and swing the door. Move it away from the door edge until it no longer makes contact with the cabinet frame, then mark the door. This will determine the overall width of your spice rack.

We used soft, easy-to-nail pine and basswood for both the spice and the lid racks. If you're using a harder wood, like maple or oak, position the pieces, then pre-drill holes through the side pieces and into the shelf ends. This will prevent splitting and make nailing easier. Install your shelves one at a time so you don't have to balance and juggle multiple pieces as you work. Always nail on a flat, solid surface.

Dimensions will vary according to the size of your
cabinet doors.

Figure A: Swing-Out Spice Rack

To create a lid rack, simply leave out the shelves.


Beg, borrow or rent a compressor, finish nailer and brad gun, if you can. You'll work faster, eliminate hammer marks and split the wood less often than you would hand-nailing.

Swing-down cookbook rack

When counter space is at a minimum and counter mess at a maximum, this swing-down rack will keep your cookbook up and out of the fray. The special spring-loaded brackets allow you to swing your cookbook down when you need it, then out of the way when you're done.

Our cookbook platform tucks under a single cabinet. But you can make your platform larger to hold larger books, then mount it beneath two cabinets. With a little creativity, you can use this same hardware to create a swing-down knife rack or spice rack too. Fold-down brackets are available at home centers and online.

Overall dimensions can vary according to space

Figure B: Swing-down cookbook rack

Special hinges raise the rack up and out of the way.

Blind-corner glide-out and swing-out shelves

Blind-corner cabinets—those with a blank face that allows another cabinet to butt into them—may be great for aging wine, but they're darn near impossible to see and reach into. This pair of accessories puts an end to this hidden wasteland. The hinged shelf swings out of the way, and the gliding shelf slides forward so you can access food items stored in the back. You can use the same hardware and techniques for making base cabinets more accessible too.

Glide-out shelf

Figure C: Glide-Out and Swing-Out Shelves

The key measurements and clearances:

Glide-out shelf dimensions. You can only make the unit as long as the door opening is wide (or else you can't fit it in!). Make the unit about 1/2 in. narrower than the inside width of the cabinet.

Swing-out tray dimensions. The corner-to-corner or diagonal measurement of the unit (Fig. C) can't exceed the width of the door opening (or else that won’t fit either!). Make the unit about 1 in. shorter than the opening height so it has room to swing freely when installed. Piano hinges and bottom slides are available from woodworking suppliers and home centers.

Test-fit your shelf units in the cabinet as you work.

Roll-out pantry cabinet

Most cabinet manufacturers now include roll-out shelves in their base cabinets. But if you don’t have this convenience, this project will one-up those shelves. Here we'll show you how to make an entire roll-out pantry.

The hardware consists of two heavy-duty bottom-mounted slides and one center-mounted top slide that together can support 130 lbs. Again, construct your unit to suit your needs. We made our bottom tray 3-1/2 in. tall and the upper ones 2-1/2 in. tall. You may want to include only two trays if you'll be storing cereal boxes and other tall packages.

Since you'll be converting your door from swinging to rolling mode, you'll need to remove the door and hinges. You'll also have to remove the existing handle and reinstall it centered on the door. If your hardware mounts from the backside, install it before attaching the door (Photo 6).

Pantry slides are available from woodworking stores or online.

Shelf unit dimensions will vary according to cabinet

Bottom glide detail.

Figure D: Roll-Out Pantry Cabinet

The key measurements and clearances:

Roll-out unit measurements. The plywood front and back panels should be about 1/8 in. shorter than the distance between the installed top and bottom glides (Photos 1 and 2). The width of the unit should be 1/2 in. narrower than the cabinet opening. The depth of the unit should be 1/2 in. less than the depth of the cabinet (not including the face frame).

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Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

    • Hammer
    • Clamps
    • Miter saw
    • Air compressor
    • Brad nail gun
    • Cordless drill
    • Tape measure
    • Circular saw
    • 4-in-1 screwdriver
    • Countersink drill bit
    • Level
    • Drill bit set
    • Jigsaw
    • Straightedge
    • Safety glasses
    • Square

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.

    • 1/2 x 2-1/2 boards
    • 1x3 boards
    • 3d finish nails
    • 4d finish nails
    • 5/16-in. dowels
    • Fold-down brackets
    • Glue
    • 1/2-in. thick plywood
    • 3/4 x 3/4 in. L-moldings
    • 1 in. drywall screws
    • 3/4-in. drywall screws
    • Piano hinges
    • Pantry slides

Comments from DIY Community Members

Share what's on your mind and see what other DIYers are thinking about.

1 - 10 of 10 comments
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July 30, 11:45 AM [GMT -5]

On the roll out pantry cabinet, how do you access the middle and bottom shelves. It looks to me to be almost impossible to see what you have in those shelves, that's IF you are even able to put anything in there. Am I looking at this wrong?

January 10, 4:16 PM [GMT -5]

BTW - I think I may buid a Glide/Swing shelf system also...

However on this design I don't understand why the swing out shelf is made so small...? Ideally if the cupboard door is wider than the upper cabinet is deep (usually true and true for me) almost the whole space should be viable to use...

However for this the 45 degree cut out corner is shown in the wrong corner - the back left should be the 45 (reducing the critical dimension) to allow a bigger shelf to swing out. As it is the 45 degree shown serves no purpose and just loses more usable space...

In fact better still is if the Glider RHS (in this config) can be angled to match the Swing shelf LHS angle for swing out clearance allowing maximal usage of inside space. It doesn't need to be 45 degrees - in most instances much less will be enough.

In my cupbaord I believe I can use all possible space this way with only quite minimal clearance losses.


January 10, 9:25 AM [GMT -5]

I have built two of these pull down racks - one as a book rack and one as a mesage center above a kitchen desk (post-its, notepad, pens/pencils, odds & ends, pinboard). They work well and get used a lot. However the hinges shown are not the Knape Vogt ones. I have these same ones and while they are quite good - they are not as good quality or as heavy duty as the Knape Vogt ones. These seem no longer available anywhere - but they used to be available widely, I recall these were much less expensive (maybe half as much) - and were typically white - the Knape Vogt are usually matallic finish.

I wonder if there was a patent issue or similar that took these off the market - shame they seem just too expensive for what they are...


December 21, 12:49 PM [GMT -5]

The pull down hinge reference number is KVM-UCR-HINGE-N

November 20, 11:29 PM [GMT -5]

This is one of the best project

February 26, 5:03 PM [GMT -5]

You're right -- the hinges are hard to find, and they certainly aren't at the usual stores we all frequent. Do a search for Knape and Vogt under cabinet hinges. www.HardwareHut.com (800-708-6649) is one company that sells them.

October 05, 8:17 AM [GMT -5]

The fold down cookbook shelf is a nice idea but they are wrong to say that the fold down hinges are available at home centers. I cannot find them at Lowes, Home Depot, my hardware or online.
If anyone knows where they can be found, could you post that here please?

September 26, 5:01 PM [GMT -5]

Nevermind, I must've totally phased over that part. Yes you do have to trim the shelves.... going blind.

September 26, 4:59 PM [GMT -5]

So, how do you close the door on the cabinet with the spice rack? Do you have to cut a few inches off the front of the shelves?

March 01, 1:43 PM [GMT -5]

The reaon most people have no storage in their kitchen is because they have TOO MUCH STUFF! Once I cleaned out all the useless/wowrthless stuff I had (cripes, where did it all come from anyway??) my cabinets were over 50% EMPTY! The biggest offender is plasticware. Remember that rule we learned in first grade? Round things do not fit in square places. Get rid of round plasticware.

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