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January 11, 7:14 PM [GMT -5]

Thanks for the info. I wish I would have known about this post when I had done my fence. If any readers out there are looking to level concrete walkways or driveways that have sunken because of bad compaction or flooding. You may want to try concrete leveling out before you just remove and replace it. http://www.liftitbest.com

June 30, 11:32 AM [GMT -5]

Whenever building a fence, check with your local government to see if you need a permit. Most municipalities require a permit to construct a fence.

Locally, we can obtain a homeowners permit, meaning a contractor is not needed. You just need a simple diagram showing the property lin, any structures and where the fence will be located, along with fence materials and height.

I did this and it was $50.00 for the permit. When completed, the inspector came by to sign off the permit. No big deal but it is now legal. If caught without a permit, your home can be red-tagged, permit fees skyrocket and you could be facing a trip to court.


June 29, 11:55 PM [GMT -5]

PS - Screw Bracket to Post?

The article calls for 1 1/4 inch "Joist Hanger Screws" to secure the bottom rail bracket to the post. But, popular wisdom (and code?) is that you should not secure joist hangers with screws because they have insufficient shear strength. I am not sure there is such a thing as a joist hanger screw, it does not turn up in a search, and apparently manufacturers of joist hangers do not recommend this method of attachment for the joist hanger.

That said, I am sure a screw has sufficient shear strength for the fence, even if not for a joist. Can anyone describe the sort of screw that should be used?

Since it will penetrate into the ACQ treated post, it will need to be one of these:

1. G-185 Galvanized
2. Coated
3. Stainless Steel

BTW the above material limitations also apply to the siding nails used to attach the panel sides to the posts.

All input welcome.

June 27, 9:59 PM [GMT -5]

This is a great article, I am going to build 200 ft of fence with 3 gates, using this design with only slight variations. A couple of questions:

1. The text as follows, refers to the bottom rail as both 2 x 6 and 2 x 8. Which is correct? Please let me know I am having the lumber cut and need to commit.

2. The text says to use 1 1/4 in joist hanger screws to attach bracket to post. What do I use to attach the 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 to the bracket? In general it would be helpful to know exactly what fasteners to use for all the joints.

3. Do you need to use special screws and nails to go into the treated post?

4. Did you consider using a bracket with a bottom support. as well as a side? Not sure where you would get one of these....


GreenThumb (because I am very green at this kind of project!)

Quote from Article:
Make marks 10 in. above the post bases and then hold the 2x6 bottom rails even with the marks and scribe lines using the posts as your guide (Photo 6).The bottom rails follow the slope of the yard, so this establishes the exact cutoff angles. Cut the 2x8s to fit and use them as patterns to cut matching 1x8 bottom rails to install later (Photo 13). Screw angle brackets to the posts 2 in. below the marks (Photo 7) with 1-1/4 in. joist hanger screws. Then screw the 2x8s to the brackets using the marks as a guide for the proper height.

April 28, 1:12 PM [GMT -5]

This is great. Exactly what my yard needs!

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