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April 18, 4:28 PM [GMT -5]

I completed a mini version of this project. I only had 6 feet of wall space, so I omitted the bypass unit, and only made two roll-outs. I can fit 3 105L plastic totes on top. Painting before final assembly is a good idea.

For added strength to the bypass units, I added pocket screws to the vertical back board. I also made both roll outs the full depth. I also made a jig for 1/4" holes that I used to drill holes in the roll outs and shelves to put 1/4" L-bracket shelve supports. They are only a few dollars for a bag of 12. Much cheaper than the shelves standards and clips to go with them. Also you can extra room because you don't have the shelve standard running verticle in your way.

For more added strength I screwed the bottom shelve in place to the two columns, and made the rest adjustable with the shelve support brackets.

Also to maximize shelve size, I went with 1/2" particle board on the columns, but I framed them completely with 2x2. I gained 1 1/2" this way. But I would definetly recommend 3/4" particle board for the rollouts. I made the rollout shelves with 1/2" and 3/4" cutoffs. Also made provisions on two 3/4" shelves to pocketscrew into place once rollouts are filled for added strength.

I added a couple small extra personal features like coat hooks on the front, and because a covered a receptacle on my wall, I added a plug on the outside of a column, plus added a switch for LED rope lighting under the trim. I also recessed the rollout tracks into the 2x4 frame which added an extra inch or so to the rollout height.

I spent $100 on the Johnson hardware online. About $500 on particle board, paint, screws, and other hardware. I also purchased a biscuit joiner, and Kreg pocket screw jig set to add to my tool collection. I spent about 4-5 hours a day for 6 days in total. A couple of days were priming and painting, so not as many hours those days. I wish I could upload pictures of it.

Best of luck.

February 19, 2:02 PM [GMT -5]

Thinking on the roll-out shelves?
I see by installing the "Divider" centered - this gives shelves of about 5 1/2 inches.
Would it affect the structure of these roll-outs by moving that divider over to one edge - thus providing deeper shelves?

February 17, 5:45 PM [GMT -5]

I'm looking at building this - just what I need.

I'm wondering if anyone has sourced a store to get the tracks and rollers here in Canada?

One of the hardware stores have them - but at $10.00 per Tri-Roller - without the tracks
That'll come to $240 just for the rollers?

I wonder if I could substitute cheaper Wardrobe Door Hanger Rollers?

Has anyone tried this at all?

September 14, 6:41 AM [GMT -5]

I would like to see a "Cutting Diagram" for all the particle board. It would be somewhat helpful to avoid waste, I hate having waste.

August 12, 1:03 AM [GMT -5]

I have just finished this project today with applying the facia boards with paint and varnish. It took me several weeks because I only worked 1-3 hours when I had the availability. It was as you say moderate complexity and I throughly enjoyed doing it. I used a biscut cutter for the first time and the experience was worth it. I ordered all the materials as you discribed and purchased local material from my home supply store. I was short on the tracks, I needed 1 additional 72 inch track to complete 6 pull-out units. However because of where I built it I could only use 4 pull-out units. any additional would have covered my breaker box and rendered it hard to access. I use biscuit and glue on the sliding unit and one pull-out unit, but I became concerned about the stablity of just using biscuts and glue so I used pocket screws and glue. I am not sure this made it any stronger but it made me feel so. All-in-all it was a great project and most important the wife likes it. So now I need to build one for me.

Keep these great projects coming.

July 29, 12:07 AM [GMT -5]

I really like this concept. I think that I will tweak it so that it has the pull-outs in the center and a Murphy bed style work bench on each end. That would give me the ability to have up to 4 bench top power tools set up at the same time. Thanks FHM!

July 28, 11:57 PM [GMT -5]

The reason for the track system is to keep them off the floor. You don't want them getting wet at the bottom from melting snow on your car in winter. Plus, it is easier to sweep the floor. If your book case system is inside the house, then you can use casters and roll them in and out. They do not need to be suspended.

July 25, 10:43 AM [GMT -5]

I would like to use the sliding shelves idea for bookcases that are 9" deep and 18" wide. Could that work? I have hundreds of books and not enough space to store them. This would give me lots of space in a small footprint. I don't know how to figuere out if they would be too heavy to pull in and out on these tracks.

July 14, 12:54 AM [GMT -5]

I would like to see a "Cutting Diagram" for all the particle board. It would be somewhat helpful to avoid waste, especially with $500 worth of particle board. What is the most efficient cutting plan.

December 27, 9:36 PM [GMT -5]

Looks GREAT!

Two questions. 1. My current garage door tracks are only about 3 inches above the top shelf - not the comfortable margin shown in the article. Would that be OK?

2. My garage wall exterior is cinder block, framed on the inside with steel studs with styrofoam insulation, then drywalled. How would I screw the top shelf part to the wall?


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