Making the joints in freshly hung drywall disappear behind a smooth, flawless taping job will try your patience. Many problems—slow-drying taping compound, crushed drywall edges and protruding screwheads— interrupt the smooth, efficient flow of your work. Other little problems— scuff marks, dips and ridges—won’t show up until the dust clears and you prime the walls. Going back to fix stuff is time-consuming and a lot of fuss.
Resist the temptation to lower your quality standards. In this story, we’ll demonstrate tips and techniques that pros use to avoid the most irritating slow-ups and flaws. We show these tips roughly in the order you’d use them—drywall prep, selecting your materials, applying the tape and three coats of compound, and sanding to finish up. The pros we interviewed stressed a methodical approach; if you skip a step, chances are you’ll lose time later. Although you won’t be able to work with the speed and dexterity of a pro, these tips will make your drywall taping go faster, and it’ll look better for even the most inexperienced hand.
We used water-resistant drywall for visual contrast—the taped seams and strips are easier to see against its green color. Don’t use water-resistant drywall on ceilings (it sags). Also, check with a building inspector; many areas do not permit its use on exterior house walls.
Apply Setting Compound to Speed Up Drying Times
Tape with Smoothly Mixed Compound Applied Sparingly
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Sweat the Details or They’ll Show Up as Flaws Later
FIG. A Tapered joints and butt joints
Figure A: Tapered and Butt Joints
Tapered joints are easy to cover because the two tapered edges of each sheet of drywall leave a pocket that you fill with drywall tape and compound.
Butt joints, the non-tapered ends of drywall sheets, are difficult to hide because the tape protrudes above the wall surface. Pros avoid butt joints by installing longer sheets of drywall that reach from corner to corner.