Sagging in a ceiling may be caused by undersized drywall. You either have to replace 1/2-in. drywall with 5/8-in. or add furring strips and a second layer of 5/8-in. drywall.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine:November 2010
Ceiling drywall that sags between joists or trusses is sometimes called “pillowed” drywall.
If your ceiling drywall is sagging between joists, sometimes called “pillowing,” it's probably on the top floor and attached to the roof trusses. If so,
I bet the installers used 1/2-in. drywall instead of 5/8-in.
Half-inch drywall can sag if it’s hung under roof trusses that are spaced every 24 in. It isn’t strong enough to handle the span, and the weight of the attic insulation just makes the sagging worse.
You only have two choices: Rip it out and replace it with 5/8-in. drywall or add spacers and new 5/8-in. drywall
below it. Ripping out the old stuff is the most professional
approach, but it's a nightmare job. You have to pry out the
ceiling drywall along the edges and pluck out all the old drywall screws. As if that weren’t enough fun, the
attic insulation may collapse into the room.
If you can live with a lower ceiling height, you can save a lot of time by installing a new ceiling below the old one. Add the 1-by furring strips (on 16-in. centers) shown in Figure A. Use 1x3s rather than 1x2s because it makes the drywall easier to hang. (But if your ceiling sags more than 3/4 in., use 2x2s.) Screw the 1x3s to the truss framing with 2-1/2-in. drywall screws spaced every 2 ft. Next, install and tape and finish new 5/8-in. drywall. If you have ceiling fixtures, you'll have to extend all the boxes so they're flush with the new ceiling.
Screw 1x3s to the trusses through the old ceiling and then install new 5/8-in. drywall.
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.
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