A missing doorstop means that sooner or later the wall will get dented by the door handle. Either of the two most common types of doorstop can be installed in minutes—which is a lot faster than a wall repair.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine:October 2000
Close the door, then
use an old straight-slot
screwdriver to gently pry
up and remove the top
hinge pin. Install the
doorstop over the hinge,
then reinstall the pin. For
heavy doors, install another
doorstop in the bottom
hinge. Tap the hinge pin(s)
back in and adjust the
desired “travel” of the door
(not less than 90 degrees)
by turning the threaded
set screw in or out.
sweep of your door and
locate the doorstop on the
baseboard at the point
where it contacts the door
about 1-1/2 in. in from both
the edge and the bottom of
the door. Drill a 1/8-in. hole,
then screw in the doorstop.
Tired of repairing wall holes
punched in by doorknobs? Invest
less than five minutes and a few dollars to
install either a hinge-mounted
(Photo 1) or a fixed-post doorstop
(Photo 2). Hinge-mounted
doorstops are up and out of the way
and allow the door to swing open
about 100 degrees. They work best
on lighter-weight doors because
there's less mass to rack the hinges
and loosen them. Fixed-post
doorstops mount in baseboards and
work best for heavier doors. A fixed-post
doorstop will greatly outlast a
Hinge-mounted stops are easy to
install (Photo 1). When buying,
match the metal finish on the
doorstop and hinge hardware. Hang
the stop in the top hinge of the door.
Installing stops that screw into
baseboards is equally simple. To
avoid having the doorstop punch a
hole in a hollow-core door, install
the stop so it hits the door no farther
than 1-1/2 in. in from either the edge
or the bottom of the door.
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.
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