A missing doorstop means that sooner or later the wall will get dented by the door handle. Either of the two most common types of doorstop can be installed in minutes—which is a lot faster than a wall repair.
Close the door, then use an old straight-slot screwdriver to gently pry up and remove the top hinge pin. Install the doorstop over the hinge, then reinstall the pin. For heavy doors, install another doorstop in the bottom hinge. Tap the hinge pin(s) back in and adjust the desired “travel” of the door (not less than 90 degrees) by turning the threaded set screw in or out.
Determine the sweep of your door and locate the doorstop on the baseboard at the point where it contacts the door about 1-1/2 in. in from both the edge and the bottom of the door. Drill a 1/8-in. hole, then screw in the doorstop.
Tired of repairing wall holes punched in by doorknobs? Invest less than five minutes and a few dollars to install either a hinge-mounted (Photo 1) or a fixed-post doorstop (Photo 2). Hinge-mounted doorstops are up and out of the way and allow the door to swing open about 100 degrees. They work best on lighter-weight doors because there's less mass to rack the hinges and loosen them. Fixed-post doorstops mount in baseboards and work best for heavier doors. A fixed-post doorstop will greatly outlast a spring-type one.
Hinge-mounted stops are easy to install (Photo 1). When buying, match the metal finish on the doorstop and hinge hardware. Hang the stop in the top hinge of the door.
Installing stops that screw into baseboards is equally simple. To avoid having the doorstop punch a hole in a hollow-core door, install the stop so it hits the door no farther than 1-1/2 in. in from either the edge or the bottom of the door.
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.