Overview
1 of 1Meet a pro
Jerome Worm has been
a trim carpenter for more
than 25 years. He has
installed thousands of
doors and many miles
of base and casing, and
shows no fear when
faced with a curved stair
rail or an ornate fireplace
surround.
In my 20 years as a
contractor, I’ve become
pretty good at trim work.
But working alongside my
friend Jerome makes me
feel like a beginner. He
manages to combine speed
and perfection in a way
few carpenters can match.
That’s why I asked for his
advice on trim tools. Here’s
what he told me...
Brad nailer
1 of 1Features to look for
Whether you’re using a finish or a
brad nailer, you’ll occasionally hit
something hard (like a drywall
screw) that will cause the gun to
jam. This gun lets you clear jams
just by opening the magazine. Others
have a quick-release nosepiece.
Without these options, you have to
disassemble the nosepiece.
Some models exhaust
through the handle,
away from walls and
trim.
Before you leave
the store, check
to see if the gun
comes with a
coupling. Many
don’t. If it comes
with a swivel
coupling, buy a
non-swivel
version. Jerome
says he’s never
met a swivel
coupling that didn’t leak.
A brad nailer is a small, lightweight tool
that shoots skinny 18-gauge brad nails
that are ideal for thin trim. A good selection of inexpensive, brand-name guns are available at home centers and online. Before you buy, check the maximum
brad length. Many models shoot brads
ranging from 5/8 in. to 2 in. long, but
some max out at 1-1/4 in.
Finish nailer
1 of 1Features to look for
Finish nailers come in two shapes. On some,
the magazine is parallel to the handle. On
others, it’s angled. Angled is the way to go.
It’s easier to get into tight spots.
A gun with a fixed exhaust port
can leave oily stains on the wall.
An adjustable port lets you aim
the exhaust away from the wall.
The gun should
countersink
nails without
driving them so
deep that they
split the trim or
blast right
through. The
crude way to
control depth is
to adjust
pressure at the
compressor. A
better way is to
get a gun with a
depth dial on
the nosepiece.
For trim that’s 3/4 in.
thick or more, you need
a 15- or 16-gauge finish
nailer, which shoots
fatter, longer nails (up
to 2-1/2 in.). A finish
nailer is also good for
hanging doors and
installing windows and
jamb extensions. Before you
buy a gun, make sure
the nails it requires are
widely available—not
just at one store at the
other end of town.
Small compressors are big enough
1 of 2Lighter is better
A small, lightweight compressor can handle trim jobs as easily as a bigger, heavier model, and it's easier to carry.
2 of 2Compressor tip
If you buy a small compressor, keep the box and
molded foam
packaging. You
can toss the
compressor (and
accessories) into
your truck bed or
back seat and it
won't tip over on
those hairpin turns.
For most trim jobs, there’s no reason to lug around a compressor
that weighs 40 or 50 lbs. There are lots of options in the
20- to 25-lb. range. And that’s big
enough to keep up with a one-man trim crew. A little compressor
can even power a big framing nailer if you give the compressor
a few seconds to catch up after three to five shots.
Almost perfect air hose
1 of 1Polyurethane vs. rubber
Polyurethane air hoses are just plain better than
rubber or PVC ones. They’re just as tough but much
lighter (especially nice when you’re working from a ladder). Plus,
they don’t leave those nasty skid marks on walls when you yank
them around a corner. The downside is that poly hoses can be gangly, tangly and hard to roll up.
Odd-job solution
1 of 1Oscillating cutter
You’ll never know how badly
you need an oscillating tool
until you try one. It’s handy
for a litany of projects,
including trim. The blade
slips nicely behind trim to
cut stubborn nails so you can
remove trim without splitting
it. It also lets you neatly trim
shims—none of the slipping
or cracking you sometimes
get with the utility knife
method. Jerome likes to hang
a bunch of doors and then
run around trimming them
off. It’s almost fun. The sanding
pad is good for trim work
too, especially inside corners
and around balusters.
Pry bar
1 of 1Must-have hand tool
There are a hundred kinds of pry bars out there, but this is the
only one in Jerome’s tool pouch. What makes it unique is that the
bend at the claw is less than 90 degrees. With that gentle bend,
Jerome can slip the claw behind base trim from below and pry off
trim without damaging the wall above the trim. This pry bar (Hyde 45600, available through our affiliation with Amazon.com)
is also a favorite of painters, so look for it in the paint
aisle, at paint stores or online.
Odd-angle calculator
1 of 2Capture the angle
Fold the bevel gauge around the corner and
tighten the nut to lock in the angle.
2 of 2Match the angle
Check the angle using your miter saw. Divide that
number in half and add or subtract from 45
degrees to get the perfect miter angle.
The bevel gauge has been around for thousands of years (give or take a millennium), and the beauty
of the tool is its simplicity. It has lots of uses on
trim jobs, but the most common use by far is for
dealing with a corner that’s way out of square. A
basic bevel gauge is inexpensive and will last a
lifetime.
Terrific trim ladder
1 of 2Work surface
The flat ladder top is perfect for small jobs like sawing.
2 of 2Wide support
The extra width and load capacity makes the ladder stable enough for scaffolding.
A 3-ft. ladder is perfect for trim work. That height
puts you right where you need to be for crown
molding or provides a perfect work surface for jobs
like coping. This sturdy model (Werner TW373-30, available through our affiliation with Amazon.com)
is a whopping 30 in. wide, so it also makes a great
sawhorse or supports scaffold planks. Plus, it has
steps on both sides.
Spot sander
1 of 1What's with the gunk?
It's wood glue that has built up over
the years. Jerome closes the bottle
by pushing the cap against his pouch.
Gross, but efficient.
Trim carpentry produces sharp edges and
splinters that need to be smoothed out one
way or another. Some guys like sanding
sponges, but Jerome prefers a 100-grit adhesive-backed sanding disc folded in half. It’s
tougher than regular sandpaper, doesn’t eat
up valuable tool pouch space and doesn’t
tear on sharp edges the way sponges do. Pick up a pack of five
discs at any home center.
Nail sets
1 of 1It takes two
Jerome always carries a nail set with a small tip. It’s good for setting nails
with large heads and makes a good center punch to create starter holes for
hinge screws. But a small nail set slips off the heads of brads, so Jerome
also carries a larger nail set; one with a concave tip that
locks onto tiny brad heads. Rubber-coated nail sets give you a better grip and—more
important—the bright colors are easy to
spot when you leave them lying
around.