Remove the old valve
1 of 3Photo 1: Remove the valve
Remove the old valve. If it breaks off, saw the broken portion with a hacksaw blade until you hit metal threads. Then use a hammer and screwdriver to chip out the pieces.
2 of 3Photo 2: Assemble the new valve
Remove the handle from the ball
valve so you can assemble all the
3/4-in. fittings.
3 of 3Photo 3: Flush
Install the new ball valve and flush
the sediment into a bucket. Let the
water flow until it runs clear.
Draining sediment several times a year
is an effective way to reduce energy
costs and increase the life of your
water heater. Unfortunately, most water heaters come
with crummy valves. And once you
open them to drain the sediment, the
debris clogs the valve, keeping it from
sealing. But you can replace the crummy
factory drain valve with a full-port
ball valve. The actual
valve replacement takes about an hour,
but sediment buildup may slow the
draining process. So set aside a full
morning for this project.
Start by shutting off the water
heater's power or gas supply. Open any
hot water faucet until you run out of
hot water. Leave the faucet on, close
the cold water valve to the tank, and
then hook up a garden hose to the
valve to drain the tank. After the tank
drains completely, unscrew and
remove the valve by turning the plastic
nut behind the knob. If the valve
breaks, don't panic (see Photo 1). Stick a
wire coat hanger through the opening
to break up the sediment. Assemble
the new valve (Photo 2), shut off the
faucet and reopen the cold water supply
valve to flush out the tank (Photo 3).
Caution!
Remove the ball valve handle after
you flush the water heater, especially
if the water heater is located where
people could walk by it and
accidentally bump the handle. The
valve could open and release scalding
water, causing serious burns.
(Twist-tie the handle to the valve
so you don't lose it.)